[Smoky]

This page lists all the possible parts, but according to the service manual not all need to be renewed.

Oil Pump with Filter Screen and Drive for 2021 BMW-Motorrad S 1000 RR | BMW Motorrad USA

www.shopbmwmotorcycles.com

The service manual states only to renew the pump, the sprocket nut for the pump, and all the o-rings. I am taking the additional steps of renewing all the bolts that hold the pump and the bolts that secure the sump (they are the same), but I think that is unnecessary for most. I am not renewing any other parts or bolts at this time as the bike only has 6000 miles on it.

 

[zx10guy]

I just pulled the parts I saw that seem to be directly relevant to the oil/coolant pump off of the service invoice for when I had mine replaced by the dealer.

 

[Smoky]

Minor update. Finally accrued all parts (my fault it took so long, figuring out which Orings to replace, but I'm making a recipe list for you future DIYers).

Began the repair this weekend, and was kicking ass. Thought I might even finish.

I took the new pump out of the little grease bag (I had only inspected that it arrived thus far, but hadn't yet removed it from the bag). That's when I noticed that BMW sent me a mangled piece of ****.

Also including a few pics from behind the sump, in case anyone was curious what is going on in there. More to come. Just waiting to hear back from BMW on a replacement pump for the replacement pump.

 

[bennymx]

Yeah thats really fked up 🤦‍♂️

 

[Ravenbravo]

Can you just swap the sprocket gear?

 

[Smoky]

Since I don't know when the pinion was damaged (before or after the preinstall they shouldn't have done), so how could I trust the shaft?

 

[Ravenbravo]

True, but you could take it off and spin the shaft

 

[Smoky]

True, but you could take it off and spin the shaft

"It turns well enough" won't be enough for me after spending $500+ on a part and receiving what was shipped.

 

[Smoky]

Quick update...

The work is complete, bike is back together, and knock on wood so far so good after the first weekend of riding. No more dripping. I even installed my new white coolant pipes during the process. Even cooler with the fairings on because they only just peek out a little.

The "how-to" for this is in progress. Most folks, for now at least, will be getting a dealer to warranty this repair so it might be a while before it is really useful. Taking my time with it, and might make a video too.

But in the meantime I wanted to share this as food for thought, all of which only just confirms what @bennymx has said before about this coolant leak.


This is the pump

Turn it over and you have these little ports, the larger port on the left is the oil pickup, the o-ring port on the right is the oil "out" to the motor.
The smaller one with the little hole/channel inside is what I'm calling the "coolant leak detection drain port" because that is the only reason it is there.

The oil pickup snout and drain port is a very sophisticated plastic shape, top side of which connects to the intake and leak detection ports. Bottom side is the oil pickup snout and the leak detection port output (the part you can see when you look under your bike).

It looks like this when all connected

Reason for the post is: WTF BMW.

WTF.

Why all the trouble to engineer this failure detection system rather than FIX THE PROBLEM with the pump. Is it a problem with the brand of pump? Is it a problem with the manufacturing or installation? It's likely a problem with how the shaft and seals are assembled but you can't even tear the pump down to observe the source of the leak.

That's why they just replace the whole thing.

It's a dumb and disappointing thing to see tbh.

I'm not looking forward to doing this again, but I bet I will be given the community failure reports. There is no official recall (afaik) probably because there is no solution atm. At least it'll go more quickly next time.

 

[zx10guy]

Quick update...

The work is complete, bike is back together, and knock on wood so far so good after the first weekend of riding. No more dripping. I even installed my new white coolant pipes during the process. Even cooler with the fairings on because they only just peek out a little.
View attachment 226209 View attachment 226208

The "how-to" for this is in progress. Most folks, for now at least, will be getting a dealer to warranty this repair so it might be a while before it is really useful. Taking my time with it, and might make a video too.

But in the meantime I wanted to share this as food for thought, all of which only just confirms what @bennymx has said before about this coolant leak.


This is the pump
View attachment 226204

Turn it over and you have these little ports, the larger port on the left is the oil pickup, the o-ring port on the right is the oil "out" to the motor.
The smaller one with the little hole/channel inside is what I'm calling the "coolant leak detection drain port" because that is the only reason it is there.
View attachment 226205

The oil pickup snout and drain port is a very sophisticated plastic shape, top side of which connects to the intake and leak detection ports. Bottom side is the oil pickup snout and the leak detection port output (the part you can see when you look under your bike).
View attachment 226206

It looks like this when all connected
View attachment 226207


Reason for the post is: WTF BMW.

WTF.

Why all the trouble to engineer this failure detection system rather than FIX THE PROBLEM with the pump. Is it a problem with the brand of pump? Is it a problem with the manufacturing or installation? It's likely a problem with how the shaft and seals are assembled but you can't even tear the pump down to observe the source of the leak.

That's why they just replace the whole thing.

It's a dumb and disappointing thing to see tbh.

I'm not looking forward to doing this again, but I bet I will be given the community failure reports. There is no official recall (afaik) probably because there is no solution atm. At least it'll go more quickly next time.

Not sure if this is true or not. Dealer mechanic said BMW has revised the oil/water pump due to the failures. Who knows. Hopefully, they're not taking cues from BMW AG where they have never been able to solve/fix the oil filter housing gasket issue, or never fixing the electric water pump used in some of the inline 6 engines.

 

[Smoky]

The one they sent was identical, just doesn't leak yet.

 

[zx10guy]

The one they sent was identical, just doesn't leak yet.

But without looking inside at the internals, you don't know for sure....right?

 

[Smoky]

But without looking inside at the internals, you don't know for sure....right?

I mean, it still had a leak detection port. Externally it was identical.

I need 'no leak detection necessary' kind of robustness. I would have been very happy to find out I needed to buy a new oil pickup assembly because they got rid of that port!

 

[HesAMadLad]

Quick update...

The work is complete, bike is back together, and knock on wood so far so good after the first weekend of riding. No more dripping. I even installed my new white coolant pipes during the process. Even cooler with the fairings on because they only just peek out a little.
View attachment 226209 View attachment 226208

The "how-to" for this is in progress. Most folks, for now at least, will be getting a dealer to warranty this repair so it might be a while before it is really useful. Taking my time with it, and might make a video too.

But in the meantime I wanted to share this as food for thought, all of which only just confirms what @bennymx has said before about this coolant leak.


This is the pump
View attachment 226204

Turn it over and you have these little ports, the larger port on the left is the oil pickup, the o-ring port on the right is the oil "out" to the motor.
The smaller one with the little hole/channel inside is what I'm calling the "coolant leak detection drain port" because that is the only reason it is there.
View attachment 226205

The oil pickup snout and drain port is a very sophisticated plastic shape, top side of which connects to the intake and leak detection ports. Bottom side is the oil pickup snout and the leak detection port output (the part you can see when you look under your bike).
View attachment 226206

It looks like this when all connected
View attachment 226207


Reason for the post is: WTF BMW.

WTF.

Why all the trouble to engineer this failure detection system rather than FIX THE PROBLEM with the pump. Is it a problem with the brand of pump? Is it a problem with the manufacturing or installation? It's likely a problem with how the shaft and seals are assembled but you can't even tear the pump down to observe the source of the leak.

That's why they just replace the whole thing.

It's a dumb and disappointing thing to see tbh.

I'm not looking forward to doing this again, but I bet I will be given the community failure reports. There is no official recall (afaik) probably because there is no solution atm. At least it'll go more quickly next time.

i’m facing the same problem on my bike now and i don’t know where to start. did you happen to record a video of the process? is this something i would be able to do? biggest procedure i’ve done on a motorcycle is replace the spark plugs

 

[zx10guy]

i’m facing the same problem on my bike now and i don’t know where to start. did you happen to record a video of the process? is this something i would be able to do? biggest procedure i’ve done on a motorcycle is replace the spark plugs

Aren't you still under warranty?

 

[Smoky]

i’m facing the same problem on my bike now and i don’t know where to start. did you happen to record a video of the process? is this something i would be able to do? biggest procedure i’ve done on a motorcycle is replace the spark plugs

It's not difficult, but it takes time and patience, and the right tools and the service manual.

I've been swamped with work and life and haven't sat down to do a writeup. But...

If you can remove and reinstall your exhaust,
If you can change your oil,
If you can drain and refill your coolant,
If you can drop a clean gasket bead,
If you can handle the patience and time it takes to remove the sump,
If you have a digital torque wrench that measures down to 3Nm,
Then the rest is pretty simple.

 

[HesAMadLad]

Aren't you still under warranty?

unfortunately no. i bought the bike through an auction with only cosmetic damages but it has a salvage title. working on getting a rebuilt title now

 

[HesAMadLad]

It's not difficult, but it takes time and patience, and the right tools and the service manual.

I've been swamped with work and life and haven't sat down to do a writeup. But...

If you can remove and reinstall your exhaust,
If you can change your oil,
If you can drain and refill your coolant,
If you can drop a clean gasket bead,
If you can handle the patience and time it takes to remove the sump,
If you have a digital torque wrench that measures down to 3Nm,
Then the rest is pretty simple.

hmm never removed exhaust from headers but doesn’t seem too hard. i also don’t know what a gasket bead is :/ i just wish there was a video somewhere that i could use for guidance but it doesn’t look like anyone has posted a video on this

 

[Smoky]

hmm never removed exhaust from headers but doesn’t seem too hard. i also don’t know what a gasket bead is :/ i just wish there was a video somewhere that i could use for guidance but it doesn’t look like anyone has posted a video on this

I have video clips of the parts that would need explaining in a video. Really, it's only how you need to twist the pump out of the sump once it is unbolted, and then twist the new one back in because it doesn't just pop out in a simple way. But it's not that difficult. Most difficult part really was just getting the sump unstuck.

A clean bead means using the right type of liquid gasket, and a tiny perfectly even amount down the middle of a perfectly clean sump cover lip surface, and mating that cleanly to a perfectly clean engine block surface.

If you reference the service manual I linked in my previous comment and follow through the steps you can judge for yourself if you can handle it. If you think you want to tackle it I'd be happy to talk you through it (or maybe I'll get off my butt and make the writeup...but honestly 90% of any writeup is just going to be stringing service manual steps together).

 

[HesAMadLad]

I have video clips of the parts that would need explaining in a video. Really, it's only how you need to twist the pump out of the sump once it is unbolted, and then twist the new one back in because it doesn't just pop out in a simple way. But it's not that difficult. Most difficult part really was just getting the sump unstuck.

A clean bead means using the right type of liquid gasket, and a tiny perfectly even amount down the middle of a perfectly clean sump cover lip surface, and mating that cleanly to a perfectly clean engine block surface.

If you reference the service manual I linked in my previous comment and follow through the steps you can judge for yourself if you can handle it. If you think you want to tackle it I'd be happy to talk you through it (or maybe I'll get off my butt and make the writeup...but honestly 90% of any writeup is just going to be stringing service manual steps together).

ok i took a look at the manual. it looks like i remove headers and unfasten all the bolts for the oil pan and drop the pan. from there I have access to the pump. what parts need to be replaced though? am i removing all parts of the pump system including the chain shown in the manual? if you have videos of what to do at this point it would help a ton