[Smoky]

Moving forward, ANY coolant leak is a safety concern. Especially if the leak is right in front of the rear tire. Coolant is very slippery.

The oil water pump has o rings that give up the ghost. Having delt with this 2x so far and getting to put my hands on the problem I can see where the failure is/was.

When you get it back check the oil frequently and change it if it looks cloudy. There may be residual from the service.

One thing I'm after is the detail behind your second paragraph... if you've done the work yourself I'd be real interested to know more about what that looks like.

 

[Smoky]

Dealer does the work under warranty!

True. But...

I have severe anxiety about working with dealer service departments. Among many other experiences, mostly with cars (tech going on joy rides, techs blowing a built motor, techs scratch/denting/damaging vehicles), I can refer you to my page where I document an experience I had with my local Ducati/BMW dealer (www.motojuliasucks.com).

But my main concern is that it's all likely to go like this...

1. Load bike on the trailer, drive 5 hours to the dealer (since I can no longer use above mentioned local dealer), drop off bike = time and fuel cost
2. Despite what I've told them is wrong, they will want to diagnose themselves. Then they report to BMW. Who may or may not grant warranty because my bike is modified, even though this just means they don't understand US warranty laws since we're protected from that kind of nonsense. Either way, it's PITA territory.
3. Eventually, a part is ordered
4. If I'm very very lucky, no other problems will be created while the bike is with dealer until I get it back

There may be weeks that pass between each step. And weeks that pass before they get the part. And then weeks that pass before they actually get around to installing it.

Very recently my (new, out of state) dealer told me I needed to bring my bike in for the timing chain tensioner recall, and that I would need to leave the bike with them and they had no idea how long it would be before they could get to it. Couple weeks they implied.

Meanwhile, I ordered the recall part and installed it myself and lost only a few days.

The more I learn about this repair, the simpler it looks. Still learning though, before I dive in.

 

[Smoky]

Might regret it, but I'm diving in and doing this myself. Ordered the parts. At the end of the day, the parts are cheaper than the travel expenses I would incur to get the bike there and back on the trailer, all without knowing if they are going to fight me on warranty anyway. Service manual is on the way too, so at least I'll have the procedure and torque specs. Should be fun, and I'll learn more about the bike. And if it happens again, it's just another repair rather than "another trip to the dealer".

 

[Smoky]

Well, if it means anything at this point when my bike was in for service per my post above, I had Akra headers on the bike. BMW went ahead and covered the oil/water pump repair.

Where are you getting the service manual? No dealer is able to order the CD anymore and I'm sure any left over stock any dealer may have are already sold.

Trying my luck with one of the manuals sold on ebay. Will report back to say if those are legit or not. But I will apparently need to find an old external DVD drove and blow the dust off of it 😆

 

[Smoky]

Update, picked up a K67 service manual from ebay. It's a perfect PDF version of the manual.

The procedure to replace this pump is cake. Haven't done it yet, so that's easy to say! But honestly it looks pretty straightforward. All parts ordered, I'm looking forward to it! And definitely looking forward to not being without my bike for weeks/months during some of our best riding weather (in the US south..it's only "kinda cool" here rn)

 

[Smoky]

Make a youtube video!

I've considered it. I always think it would be fun to make a how to video, but then I start getting into the work and end up lucky to remember to snap stills. 😆

 

[Smoky]

Ya, it doesn't look too bad. Remove exhaust, remove sump, and there it should be. Manual only calls for renewing the gaskets and the shaft nut that secures the sprocket. I should be able to reuse the rest, if I have to order more screws or that "assembly" then I will.

Edit: and I also have a custom exhaust (AR) so it should be just slipping out the rear section rather than full removal for me as well.

 

[Smoky]

This page lists all the possible parts, but according to the service manual not all need to be renewed.

Oil Pump with Filter Screen and Drive for 2021 BMW-Motorrad S 1000 RR | BMW Motorrad USA

www.shopbmwmotorcycles.com

The service manual states only to renew the pump, the sprocket nut for the pump, and all the o-rings. I am taking the additional steps of renewing all the bolts that hold the pump and the bolts that secure the sump (they are the same), but I think that is unnecessary for most. I am not renewing any other parts or bolts at this time as the bike only has 6000 miles on it.

 

[Smoky]

Minor update. Finally accrued all parts (my fault it took so long, figuring out which Orings to replace, but I'm making a recipe list for you future DIYers).

Began the repair this weekend, and was kicking ass. Thought I might even finish.

I took the new pump out of the little grease bag (I had only inspected that it arrived thus far, but hadn't yet removed it from the bag). That's when I noticed that BMW sent me a mangled piece of ****.

Also including a few pics from behind the sump, in case anyone was curious what is going on in there. More to come. Just waiting to hear back from BMW on a replacement pump for the replacement pump.

 

[Smoky]

Since I don't know when the pinion was damaged (before or after the preinstall they shouldn't have done), so how could I trust the shaft?

 

[Smoky]

True, but you could take it off and spin the shaft

"It turns well enough" won't be enough for me after spending $500+ on a part and receiving what was shipped.

 

[Smoky]

Quick update...

The work is complete, bike is back together, and knock on wood so far so good after the first weekend of riding. No more dripping. I even installed my new white coolant pipes during the process. Even cooler with the fairings on because they only just peek out a little.

The "how-to" for this is in progress. Most folks, for now at least, will be getting a dealer to warranty this repair so it might be a while before it is really useful. Taking my time with it, and might make a video too.

But in the meantime I wanted to share this as food for thought, all of which only just confirms what @bennymx has said before about this coolant leak.


This is the pump

Turn it over and you have these little ports, the larger port on the left is the oil pickup, the o-ring port on the right is the oil "out" to the motor.
The smaller one with the little hole/channel inside is what I'm calling the "coolant leak detection drain port" because that is the only reason it is there.

The oil pickup snout and drain port is a very sophisticated plastic shape, top side of which connects to the intake and leak detection ports. Bottom side is the oil pickup snout and the leak detection port output (the part you can see when you look under your bike).

It looks like this when all connected

Reason for the post is: WTF BMW.

WTF.

Why all the trouble to engineer this failure detection system rather than FIX THE PROBLEM with the pump. Is it a problem with the brand of pump? Is it a problem with the manufacturing or installation? It's likely a problem with how the shaft and seals are assembled but you can't even tear the pump down to observe the source of the leak.

That's why they just replace the whole thing.

It's a dumb and disappointing thing to see tbh.

I'm not looking forward to doing this again, but I bet I will be given the community failure reports. There is no official recall (afaik) probably because there is no solution atm. At least it'll go more quickly next time.

 

[Smoky]

The one they sent was identical, just doesn't leak yet.

 

[Smoky]

But without looking inside at the internals, you don't know for sure....right?

I mean, it still had a leak detection port. Externally it was identical.

I need 'no leak detection necessary' kind of robustness. I would have been very happy to find out I needed to buy a new oil pickup assembly because they got rid of that port!

 

[Smoky]

i’m facing the same problem on my bike now and i don’t know where to start. did you happen to record a video of the process? is this something i would be able to do? biggest procedure i’ve done on a motorcycle is replace the spark plugs

It's not difficult, but it takes time and patience, and the right tools and the service manual.

I've been swamped with work and life and haven't sat down to do a writeup. But...

If you can remove and reinstall your exhaust,
If you can change your oil,
If you can drain and refill your coolant,
If you can drop a clean gasket bead,
If you can handle the patience and time it takes to remove the sump,
If you have a digital torque wrench that measures down to 3Nm,
Then the rest is pretty simple.

 

[Smoky]

hmm never removed exhaust from headers but doesn’t seem too hard. i also don’t know what a gasket bead is :/ i just wish there was a video somewhere that i could use for guidance but it doesn’t look like anyone has posted a video on this

I have video clips of the parts that would need explaining in a video. Really, it's only how you need to twist the pump out of the sump once it is unbolted, and then twist the new one back in because it doesn't just pop out in a simple way. But it's not that difficult. Most difficult part really was just getting the sump unstuck.

A clean bead means using the right type of liquid gasket, and a tiny perfectly even amount down the middle of a perfectly clean sump cover lip surface, and mating that cleanly to a perfectly clean engine block surface.

If you reference the service manual I linked in my previous comment and follow through the steps you can judge for yourself if you can handle it. If you think you want to tackle it I'd be happy to talk you through it (or maybe I'll get off my butt and make the writeup...but honestly 90% of any writeup is just going to be stringing service manual steps together).

 

[Smoky]

ok i took a look at the manual. it looks like i remove headers and unfasten all the bolts for the oil pan and drop the pan. from there I have access to the pump. what parts need to be replaced though? am i removing all parts of the pump system including the chain shown in the manual? if you have videos of what to do at this point it would help a ton

I'll make a parts list for you tomorrow when I'm back at my PC. I need that for the writeup anyway.

You unbolt the sump, then the hard part is breaking the bond of the old sump gasket and popping it off but I have a trick for that.

You remove the nut from the gear, remove the gear, let the chain hang, then unbolt and twist the pump out of the sump. Reinstall is the reverse of removal.

I'll follow up tomorrow.

 

[Smoky]

So, just briefly...
From this link it is easier to say what you don't need. You DON'T need #s 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11.
The pump will arrive with the pinion attached. That sucks because it has to removed during installation of the pump. Make sure you renew the nut as it is a one-time use, theoretically.

Nuts and bolts and o-rings that you order may be different colors or styles from the ones that come off of the bike. That's ok. As long as you match the part number to the piece and the size is correct then you are good.

From this link you DO need #s 4 & 7. This line is removed from the block to get access to a sump bolt, or at least makes everything WAY easier when it is out of the way. You remove bolt #6 in this pic just to loosen up the line prior to popping it out of the block, but you only need to replace bolt #4 according to the service manual. Use thread locker on #6 per the manual.

From this link you DO need fourteen (14) #4, as well as #s 3 & 5 (or use your preferred oil pan liquid gasket suitable for the S1000RR).

Aside from stray items like if you have the OEM exhaust, maybe you want to replace the gaskets or something, that's out of scope and for you to identify.

But I think that's about it. Oil, oil filter, coolant, tools, etc. Take lots of pics along the way for reference. It all goes together like Legos. Just have to take your time.

 

[Smoky]

Also worth mentioning there are slightly used pumps available on ebay for way less than new. Of course that's a risk, but also we're working around a design flaw so it's like a box of chocolates whether it's new and not leaking or used and not leaking (yet). Unless of course they have improved the internal design of newer units but there's no way to tell.