Mine failed right when I took my bike in for the timing chain tensioner recall. There was a distinct puddle of coolant under the bike when I parked it at the dealer. Dealer mechanic verified the failure and advised not to ride the bike any further. Said there's a chance oil and coolant mixing with the pump failing. So I left my bike there as they didn't have all the parts to do the repair. Bike was with them for about 3 weeks waiting for a part from Germany.

If it were me, I wouldn't ride the bike anymore. Even if coolant and oil don't end up mixing, you don't know how much coolant is leaking out of that weep hole. A location where your rear tire can be affected.

 

Moving forward, ANY coolant leak is a safety concern. Especially if the leak is right in front of the rear tire. Coolant is very slippery.

The oil water pump has o rings that give up the ghost. Having delt with this 2x so far and getting to put my hands on the problem I can see where the failure is/was.

When you get it back check the oil frequently and change it if it looks cloudy. There may be residual from the service.

 

Moving forward, ANY coolant leak is a safety concern. Especially if the leak is right in front of the rear tire. Coolant is very slippery.

The oil water pump has o rings that give up the ghost. Having delt with this 2x so far and getting to put my hands on the problem I can see where the failure is/was.

When you get it back check the oil frequently and change it if it looks cloudy. There may be residual from the service.

One thing I'm after is the detail behind your second paragraph... if you've done the work yourself I'd be real interested to know more about what that looks like.

 

Just take it to the dealer and have them fix it.

 

Might regret it, but I'm diving in and doing this myself. Ordered the parts. At the end of the day, the parts are cheaper than the travel expenses I would incur to get the bike there and back on the trailer, all without knowing if they are going to fight me on warranty anyway. Service manual is on the way too, so at least I'll have the procedure and torque specs. Should be fun, and I'll learn more about the bike. And if it happens again, it's just another repair rather than "another trip to the dealer".

 

Well, if it means anything at this point when my bike was in for service per my post above, I had Akra headers on the bike. BMW went ahead and covered the oil/water pump repair.

Where are you getting the service manual? No dealer is able to order the CD anymore and I'm sure any left over stock any dealer may have are already sold.

 

Trying my luck with one of the manuals sold on ebay. Will report back to say if those are legit or not. But I will apparently need to find an old external DVD drove and blow the dust off of it 😆

 

Update, picked up a K67 service manual from ebay. It's a perfect PDF version of the manual.

The procedure to replace this pump is cake. Haven't done it yet, so that's easy to say! But honestly it looks pretty straightforward. All parts ordered, I'm looking forward to it! And definitely looking forward to not being without my bike for weeks/months during some of our best riding weather (in the US south..it's only "kinda cool" here rn)

 

Make a youtube video!

 

I've considered it. I always think it would be fun to make a how to video, but then I start getting into the work and end up lucky to remember to snap stills. 😆

 

It actually might be longer than 30 minutes. Depends on what the tech does.

I looked at my repair invoice and the tech did some extensive work on my bike to replace the oil/coolant pump. He chose to drop the entire exhaust and it appears he pulled off the radiator. So I got a complete oil and oil filter change and new coolant (.5 gallons). He also noted that 6 of the 8 exhaust studs backed out of the head during removal of the exhaust. He cleaned the studs and reseated them back into the head. I ran across this same problem with one of the exhaust studs when I initially installed my Akra headers.

The parts list are the oil/coolant pump, something called an oil supply set, exhaust manifold gaskets, drain plug gasket, coolant, oil filter, oil, and something called ISA screws (there were 14 used).

 

FYI, on the K67 the water pump lives inside the oil sump, so you have to grop the sump to replace it. Dropping the sump requires removing the exhaust. This is a much more involved process than on the K46 where the water pump is external.

 

With my Akra headers, I think the oil pan can be dropped without removing the entire exhaust; just the collector pipes. But no question, if the stock exhaust is on the bike, the entire exhaust has to be dropped.

 

Ya, it doesn't look too bad. Remove exhaust, remove sump, and there it should be. Manual only calls for renewing the gaskets and the shaft nut that secures the sprocket. I should be able to reuse the rest, if I have to order more screws or that "assembly" then I will.

Edit: and I also have a custom exhaust (AR) so it should be just slipping out the rear section rather than full removal for me as well.

 

I guess these are going to be the core parts you need:

11418569196
11009480986
11147724485

 

This page lists all the possible parts, but according to the service manual not all need to be renewed.

Oil Pump with Filter Screen and Drive for 2021 BMW-Motorrad S 1000 RR | BMW Motorrad USA

www.shopbmwmotorcycles.com

The service manual states only to renew the pump, the sprocket nut for the pump, and all the o-rings. I am taking the additional steps of renewing all the bolts that hold the pump and the bolts that secure the sump (they are the same), but I think that is unnecessary for most. I am not renewing any other parts or bolts at this time as the bike only has 6000 miles on it.

 

I just pulled the parts I saw that seem to be directly relevant to the oil/coolant pump off of the service invoice for when I had mine replaced by the dealer.

 

Minor update. Finally accrued all parts (my fault it took so long, figuring out which Orings to replace, but I'm making a recipe list for you future DIYers).

Began the repair this weekend, and was kicking ass. Thought I might even finish.

I took the new pump out of the little grease bag (I had only inspected that it arrived thus far, but hadn't yet removed it from the bag). That's when I noticed that BMW sent me a mangled piece of ****.

Also including a few pics from behind the sump, in case anyone was curious what is going on in there. More to come. Just waiting to hear back from BMW on a replacement pump for the replacement pump.

 

Yeah thats really fked up 🤦‍♂️

 

Can you just swap the sprocket gear?

 

Since I don't know when the pinion was damaged (before or after the preinstall they shouldn't have done), so how could I trust the shaft?

 

True, but you could take it off and spin the shaft

 

"It turns well enough" won't be enough for me after spending $500+ on a part and receiving what was shipped.

 

Quick update...

The work is complete, bike is back together, and knock on wood so far so good after the first weekend of riding. No more dripping. I even installed my new white coolant pipes during the process. Even cooler with the fairings on because they only just peek out a little.

The "how-to" for this is in progress. Most folks, for now at least, will be getting a dealer to warranty this repair so it might be a while before it is really useful. Taking my time with it, and might make a video too.

But in the meantime I wanted to share this as food for thought, all of which only just confirms what @bennymx has said before about this coolant leak.


This is the pump

Turn it over and you have these little ports, the larger port on the left is the oil pickup, the o-ring port on the right is the oil "out" to the motor.
The smaller one with the little hole/channel inside is what I'm calling the "coolant leak detection drain port" because that is the only reason it is there.

The oil pickup snout and drain port is a very sophisticated plastic shape, top side of which connects to the intake and leak detection ports. Bottom side is the oil pickup snout and the leak detection port output (the part you can see when you look under your bike).

It looks like this when all connected

Reason for the post is: WTF BMW.

WTF.

Why all the trouble to engineer this failure detection system rather than FIX THE PROBLEM with the pump. Is it a problem with the brand of pump? Is it a problem with the manufacturing or installation? It's likely a problem with how the shaft and seals are assembled but you can't even tear the pump down to observe the source of the leak.

That's why they just replace the whole thing.

It's a dumb and disappointing thing to see tbh.

I'm not looking forward to doing this again, but I bet I will be given the community failure reports. There is no official recall (afaik) probably because there is no solution atm. At least it'll go more quickly next time.

 

Quick update...

The work is complete, bike is back together, and knock on wood so far so good after the first weekend of riding. No more dripping. I even installed my new white coolant pipes during the process. Even cooler with the fairings on because they only just peek out a little.
View attachment 226209 View attachment 226208

The "how-to" for this is in progress. Most folks, for now at least, will be getting a dealer to warranty this repair so it might be a while before it is really useful. Taking my time with it, and might make a video too.

But in the meantime I wanted to share this as food for thought, all of which only just confirms what @bennymx has said before about this coolant leak.


This is the pump
View attachment 226204

Turn it over and you have these little ports, the larger port on the left is the oil pickup, the o-ring port on the right is the oil "out" to the motor.
The smaller one with the little hole/channel inside is what I'm calling the "coolant leak detection drain port" because that is the only reason it is there.
View attachment 226205

The oil pickup snout and drain port is a very sophisticated plastic shape, top side of which connects to the intake and leak detection ports. Bottom side is the oil pickup snout and the leak detection port output (the part you can see when you look under your bike).
View attachment 226206

It looks like this when all connected
View attachment 226207


Reason for the post is: WTF BMW.

WTF.

Why all the trouble to engineer this failure detection system rather than FIX THE PROBLEM with the pump. Is it a problem with the brand of pump? Is it a problem with the manufacturing or installation? It's likely a problem with how the shaft and seals are assembled but you can't even tear the pump down to observe the source of the leak.

That's why they just replace the whole thing.

It's a dumb and disappointing thing to see tbh.

I'm not looking forward to doing this again, but I bet I will be given the community failure reports. There is no official recall (afaik) probably because there is no solution atm. At least it'll go more quickly next time.

Not sure if this is true or not. Dealer mechanic said BMW has revised the oil/water pump due to the failures. Who knows. Hopefully, they're not taking cues from BMW AG where they have never been able to solve/fix the oil filter housing gasket issue, or never fixing the electric water pump used in some of the inline 6 engines.

 

The one they sent was identical, just doesn't leak yet.

 

But without looking inside at the internals, you don't know for sure....right?

 

So, just briefly...
From this link it is easier to say what you don't need. You DON'T need #s 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11.
The pump will arrive with the pinion attached. That sucks because it has to removed during installation of the pump. Make sure you renew the nut as it is a one-time use, theoretically.

Nuts and bolts and o-rings that you order may be different colors or styles from the ones that come off of the bike. That's ok. As long as you match the part number to the piece and the size is correct then you are good.

From this link you DO need #s 4 & 7. This line is removed from the block to get access to a sump bolt, or at least makes everything WAY easier when it is out of the way. You remove bolt #6 in this pic just to loosen up the line prior to popping it out of the block, but you only need to replace bolt #4 according to the service manual. Use thread locker on #6 per the manual.

From this link you DO need fourteen (14) #4, as well as #s 3 & 5 (or use your preferred oil pan liquid gasket suitable for the S1000RR).

Aside from stray items like if you have the OEM exhaust, maybe you want to replace the gaskets or something, that's out of scope and for you to identify.

But I think that's about it. Oil, oil filter, coolant, tools, etc. Take lots of pics along the way for reference. It all goes together like Legos. Just have to take your time.

 

So, just briefly...
From this link it is easier to say what you don't need. You DON'T need #s 3, 7, 8, 9, or 10.
The pump will arrive with the pinion attached. That sucks because it has to removed during installation of the pump. Make sure you renew the nut as it is a one-time use, theoretically.

Nuts and bolts and o-rings that you order may be different colors or shapes from the ones that come off of the bike. That's ok. As long as you match the part number to the piece and the size is correct then you are good.

From this link you DO need #s 4 & 7. This line is removed from the block to get access to a sump bolt, or at least makes everything WAY easier when it is out of the way. You remove bolt #6 in this pic just to loosen up the line prior to popping it out of the block, but you only need to replace bolt #4 according to the service manual. Use thread locker on #6 per the manual.

From this link you DO need fourteen (14) #4, as well as #s 3 & 5 (or use your preferred oil pan liquid gasket suitable for the S1000RR).

Aside from stray items like if you have the OEM exhaust, maybe you want to replace the gaskets or something, that's out of scope and for you to identify.

But I think that's about it. Oil, oil filter, coolant, tools, etc. Take lots of pics along the way for reference. It all goes together like Legos. Just have to take your time.

thank you for the write up man helps a ton. I will most likely order the part and give this a shot myself. BMW quoted me at ~$1000 for this

 

Also worth mentioning there are slightly used pumps available on ebay for way less than new. Of course that's a risk, but also we're working around a design flaw so it's like a box of chocolates whether it's new and not leaking or used and not leaking (yet). Unless of course they have improved the internal design of newer units but there's no way to tell.

 

Mine leaks, however it's very minimal, maybe a drop once in a while. When would you feel the need to replace the pump?

 

The way it is designed, the weep hole is like an indicator light of a malfunction. If you see it dripping then the pump needs to be replaced. Also, it's just going to get worse and you risk mixing oil and coolant.

 

Refer to the service manual for detailed steps and images, torque values, etc. Make sure to replace any one-time-use bolts and nuts (mainly the sump bolts, oil return feed bolts, little nut on the pump pinion) and replace all impacted washers. I've created a parts list here.

Steps are basically
1. Lift bike on rear stand
2. Drain oil & coolant
3. Unbolt and unhook the oil return feed (to access that front/center sump bolt)
3.a. Remove the coolant line and connection to the pump, just above the kickstand (iirc you can use the same tool you use to remove the front axle)
4. Take bike off of center stand and place on kick stand
5. Remove sump (remove bolts, then use slow, steady pressure, like from a floor jack to "unstick" the sump from the OEM adhesive gasket...TAKE CARE NOT TO LET YOUR BIKE FALL SINCE YOU ARE ADDING PRESSURE FROM ODD ANGLES WHILE DOING THIS)
6. Remove feed pipes inside sump
7. Remove nut on pump pinion, remove pinion, take note of and try to avoid altering the chain location and don't bump it off of the top pinion or it is more work to fix...not much of an issue as it stays put)
8. Remove pump bolts, then remove pump. The pump will still be connected to the bike via a feed pipe. You can't pull the pump rearwards to remove the pipe first, it hits the housing. You have to rotate the pump around the feed pipe (it's just a pipe and gasket going into the pump inlet, so it will spin), rotating the pump out of the sump, then you can back it out and extract the pump and feed pipe. Just take note of how you rotated it out so you can do the reverse during reinstall
9. If you have some miles (> 10k) then you might want to retain the original pinion gear, since the teeth will be worn to match the chain. If you have fewer miles then you can decide to replace the pinion with a fresh one, but change the oil 1000 miles after the work, as you would with a break-in service, in case any little metal bits emerge from the meshing and wear-in of the new pinion)
10. Reinstall is the reverse of the above steps

Reinstalling the sump
Once the pump in reinstalled and all the bits are back in place, clean the sump mating surfaces thoroughly to remove all old gasket, then applying a very tiny, thin bead of sealant in the along the middle of the sump pan mating surface, following the inside line around bolt holes. It needs to be like 1mm wide, so go slow. It won't dry on you.
CAREFULLY mate the surfaces together, then bolt and torque it up by following the steps in the service manual. Moving the pan into place and mating the surfaces can be challenging. And if you f up you'll be redoing the gasket cleaning/applying from scratch. But that's ok. One tube is TONS of gasket, so if it happens it happens. Just go slow and it'll come out perfect.
WAIT 24 HOURS FOR THE GASKET TO CURE BEFORE FILLING WITH OIL.
Then check for static leaks. If no leaks, proceed with coolant refill.
If you see no leaks while doing your coolant fill startups then that's a great sign.
Finally, do a full heat cycle startup and shutdown and check for leaks.

My only trouble spot for leaks was the oil cooler return line, the one removed to get access to the sump bolt. I must have goofed the reinsertion and twerked the gasket. I replaced the gasket at the next oil change and my small leak went away. Been solid for 3000 miles now.

I uploaded a ton of pics, out of order, but should be helpful nonetheless to this folder. There's some extra stuff in there because I also changed my coolant hoses when I did this work.

I uploaded a video showing how to remove the pump from da sump (and reinstall is just the reverse direction to go back in). It's just a short snippet of the pump removal only so you can how it comes out. I have more videos, but that's the most relevant one. The rest are just stupid videos of me removing bolts, because that's all the work really is.

 

Very involved, you would think BMW would redesign the part as the cost they're paying dealers to replace under warranty would be huge.

 

Very poorly designed, what were they thinking? UGH