Good job on the work done so far. I have some questions which may have been covered but I just want to understand better.

1. So when the bike is running what is the voltage at the battery at idle and then when you increase RPM?
2. Have you checked stator output?
3. I see you have swapped regulators and done the aux mod. Have you tested both regs? You asked me about the aux line. I mentioned it was to ground the over voltage.
4. I see your bike is a 2012.
5. I would assume battery terminals are tight?
6. The problem did exist with the stock battery and also lithium?
7. Can you put the bike on the bench and with the GS911 monitor the live status readings from the bike and increase RPM to cause a failure and see what happens?
8. If you clear the ABS fault code. Does it come back after a ride? Does it come back as an over voltage code? Any other fault codes?
9. You should swap another dash off a 12,13 or 14 bike and test with that to rule it out.
10. Have you done line checks from the dash back to the relevant connectors? I guess you won't have wiring information or pin outs. I have this if you need. PM me.
11. If you get a go pro and put it on the tank. Then record this failure happening live it would help.

I mean in basic form. The stator will output AC voltage and the regulator will regulate it out to DC voltage so the bike can use it. If you are getting say around 14.2 at the battery when running then you'd say there is no issue with the stator or reg. So unless there is a short in the harness from the dash backwards but normally you'd get a fault code.

 

1. So when the bike is running what is the voltage at the battery at idle and then when you increase RPM?

14.4 at idle and 14.8 at 5000 on up.

2. Have you checked stator output?

Not directly yet. How is the best way to do this?

3. I see you have swapped regulators and done the aux mod. Have you tested both regs? You asked me about the aux line. I mentioned it was to ground the over voltage.

Aux had not been done to my bike. After our conversation about it I did the aux cable. The voltage was getting higher than 14.8 before the aux cable. I have not tested both regs post aux cable. Would like some guidance on how to test the regulators(assuming this is a bench test and not a on bike test). Just for clarity problem is happening after the aux cable.

5. I would assume battery terminals are tight?

Correct with multiple reseats to double check.

6. The problem did exist with the stock battery and also lithium?

Problem exists with the AGM and lithium battery. Note that the AGM is a Xtreme AGM XTAZ10S, he batteries plus equivilent of a z10s battery. The lithium battery is a Shorai LFX19A4-BS12.

7. Can you put the bike on the bench and with the GS911 monitor the live status readings from the bike and increase RPM to cause a failure and see what happens?

Will attempt this tomorrow

8. If you clear the ABS fault code. Does it come back after a ride? Does it come back as an over voltage code? Any other fault codes?

The ABS over-voltage only comes back once in a while. Been trying to fix this so have not been riding it much and if I do have been keeping the RPMs down. Have not seen the ABS error since the aux cable but also have not really pushed the bike at all since that either.
No other related fault codes. Only other code is because the parking lights are LED and I didn't put resisters in line with them.

9. You should swap another dash off a 12,13 or 14 bike and test with that to rule it out.

I do not have an alternate dash on hand. I will see if a mechanic has one locally.

11. If you get a go pro and put it on the tank. Then record this failure happening live it would help.

Will record the issue tomorrow.


I follow on the basic layout. I am comfortable with AC and DC power so feel free to lay it on me. I am an audio engineer. I am learning the motorcycle electrical parts now but have worked on the electrical circuit level for a while professionally. Have access to basic oscilloscope and graphical multimeter.

Thank you again for taking the time to look at this with me.

 

I think i know the problem, as I have fixed about 10 Clusters with this issue of crazy reaction to the lights and RPM.

Remove the cluster from the fairing stay. Once it is in your hands shake it and see if it rattles right under the tach display portion of the hump. If it has a very pronounced rattle, the capacitor has broken off the mother board. I have been successful in putting a new one of these on the mother board. It is a semi SMT device, but I can work with it.

If you hear the rattle and you just get real curious what it looks like, remove the 5 screws holding the cluster together. Just be careful with the seal between the halfs. Now you can really hear the rattle on the tach meter side. Removing the rest of the unit apart is not a post explanation. Unless of course you think you can fix it, then there is 5 more screws that need to be removed to get to the backside mother board.

You can send to me and I can try to fix it.

 

Here is a video with the dash dropping out 3 times

 

Here is a video of the idle and rev'd engine with leads on battery.

 

I logged a ride today. Have the whole GS911 file log if you want.

The main bits are:
12.68 ignition on but bike off
10.98 drop when bike is started
14.33 climbs to this after startup
14.74 highest it climbs to twice.


Also checked the stator output. The voltage on all three phases from the stator was just under 6v ac.

 

Yes if you could send me the whole log that would be good.

 

Here is the link to the log file:

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

Found this thread researching my own oddball issues with my cluster. BMW_388's guide to knowing if you suffer the broken-capacitor problem worked for me and he quickly repaired and returned the cluster. That solved my three-year-running problem. Thank you sir!

 

All good, and I secured the replacement cap so it should not happen again.

 

Turns out I now have the broken capacitor problem. Could you please tell me which way to mount the new cap (black tab to the other cap or away from)? It had already broken free when I opened the cluster.



What did you do to secure the cap to prevent the problem from happening again?

 

solved the problem? i'm stayed with the same problem . Help me please

 

I already told you I fixed his problem. its a SMT capacitor. @kanwisch had a second problem I rarely see. The capacitor has a metal casing and it touched a land trace long enough to short out part of the PCB so I had to repair that also. Get an electronic engineer in your area to look at it since you do not want to ship it to USA for repair.

 

First Thanks to bennymx for the help.

What finally resolved it for my bike was a few things. The aux mod not having been completed meant the regulator was struggling with over-voltage. It burnt up the regulator. I did the aux mod and then needed to get a new regulator. I had originally gotten a test regulator but didn't realize that the second regulator for testing was bad or got burnt up by the lack of aux mod in earlier testing.

Short version: get the aux mod done if it was not done(model and age dependant). Then change out regulator.

 

was it not a problem on the panel? because my bike looks exactly like yours in the video.

 

Always good to see user's fix their own bikes

 

So I was riding yesterday and the issue came back. It makes me think something is burning up the regulators. I need to do more digging tomorrow but it has been 5 months and 2,000 miles since the regulator swap. I was also riding in 50 and 60 degree fahrenheit temps so not an ambient temp issue. I will keep you guys updated with what I find.

 

Wiring question: where is the main connection between the battery negative and the frame?

Everything points to a less than optimal negative somewhere. The regulator would be having trouble with the negative. More to investigate but that is where I am on the project right now.

Does anyone know where to find the wiring diagrams?

 

Haynes released a service manual that has some wiring schematics.

The main ground point is under the throttle bodies attached to the engine next to the starter. Large brown wires on an eyelet.

 

Thanks for the info. I will check the ground. That is interesting about the Haynes manual. The one I had did not have the wiring. It had a note that only 2015 and newer models had the wiring. I have not worked on a 2015 so didn't know how similar it might be.

 

The wiring diagrams are interactive and are in the diagnostic software ISTA.

Earth lead is down next to the starter motor underneath the fuel tank. Number 4.

 

I don't know, friend, I sent it to the mechanic to assemble it.

 

All tested and good. The new cap fixed the problem.

 

Can I ask where you sourced the replacement cap?

 

Hey man can you shoot me a link of the capacitor that goes inside the s1k cluster that causes the on and off of the cluster itself under load? I am having the same issue.

 

Here is the info from the one I used.

PART: 1189-2097-1-ND

Rubycon (VA) / 25TLV470M10X10.5

DESC: CAP ALUM 470UF 20% 25V SMD MFG

COO : JAPAN ECCN: EAR99 HTSUS: 8532.22.0020

 

I'm having the exact same issues on my 2016. This thread was the first thing that came up searching for "S1000RR overvoltage errors" as well.

So far, I've tested tested the stator (replaced 3 yrs/15,000 km ago) regulator (original factory unit - 9 years/80,000km) and 2 separate batteries (AGM and lithium) with the bike running on a stand at idle and 6k RPM. They all check out OK. Then I took it to a shop to get a second opinion. They did the same tests, same results. All OK.

The overvoltage faults never appear under these static testing conditions, only when I get on the bike and ride it. Depending on how lucky I get, I'll get a couple of flickers on the dash then they'll go away for the rest of the ride, or I get a 2 hour light show on the dash with all the electronics disabled.

The shop that checked the bike did mention that best practice for them is to replace the regulator at the same time as the stator, but the stator replacement was done at the BMW dealer (not naming names!) where my bike was towed after it died on a ride when the stator failed. Over the 3 years I've had the new stator/old reg it's been fine up till now, but what are the chances that old reg is now on it's last legs and I should just replace it to eliminate it as a potential source of the problem?

The broken capacitor/rattle in the dash thing is an interesting bit of info. Hadn't even considered that. It's worth checking out.

Also what's the "aux power cable mod on the regulator" mentioned earlier? Something else I should check out?

TIA.

 

The aux power cable mod was for certain 2010-2014 bikes only.

My experience is with the 2010-2014 version only so your 2016 might not be the same. The instrument cluster is part of the can bus so headlights and other systems are affected when the cluster messes up. When you say light show is it just the dash/cluster or does it include headlights?