Guys I just wanna say this might be the single most productive thread on the subject of tuning we’ve ever had on this board!

No in all seriousness, this is exactly what I had hoped for with Woolich releasing this for our bikes. I had imagined the community collaborating, sharing maps, their successes and failures, and helping others troubleshoot. This is clearly more involved than a buying a canned flash, and while I can turn a wrench all day, I’m completely clueless when it comes to the tuning side of it. I can imagine I’m not the only one who might be intimidated by the DIY nature of this, so shout out to Quicksilver for sharing this info, as well as to Jason reporting on his experience.

Needless to say I will be following this discussion with great intrigue, hopefully it becomes a mega thread as more of us venture down this path.

 

LOL Well, they have a MapShare on the Woolich site and you can grab others' submitted maps and then compare all of the tables, to see everything they modified. Quckisilvers looks pretty much like the one I grabbed from there to look at. Minus some changes to 2 fueling tables. He even had the table that I am having issues with maxed out as QuickSilver does, so I might have an underlying issue from something else. Again thank you @QuickSliver for opening our eyes.

 

I got my WRT kit earlier today and was able to tune the ECU following Quicksilver’s data - so much better than before, I feel like the engine is smoother in the midrange along with all the missing power restored (13.1 vs all those 14.7 entries and the 5% more fuel).

What’s the best path for intake flapper delete with Woolich? They don’t list that as a capability for K67. I see that EDR Performance has an intake flapper delete with a servo buddy type plug, but only lists 20-21 model years.

Or you could just open up the air box and remove the plastic flaps and leave the center rod and servo in place? Or remove everything but the servo (will that still throw a code?).

 

I'm planning on just removing the doors and keeping the servo and connector plugged in. Not sure if the servo will over rotate without the doors and throw a code. Disabling the PAIR may disable the servo and prevent any code also.

 

Have been away for awhile. I see there is alot of activity on this post. I will read up and respond to questions if I have answers or suggestions. Glad I could help you all out. That was my purpose for this post and helping guys avoid the scam mail-in tunes. Most may very well work, but the scam is in the excess price gouging, such as BT.

 

All of them are close enough in price though. The woolich is around $700, SLR is $700, and bren is $900. You also have to consider that the BT offer other adjustments that aren’t available yet through woolich such as QS adjustment.

I am still torn between the 3 but I don’t care about price, I like having full control over making changes and woolich is the only one that offers that. IMO that’s extremely valuable. I also like the idea of leaving most of the stock tuning alone and just tuning out the epa bs. Unfortunately I need to wait and see what happens with some of the other members with 24’s so I can verify it’s easy enough to do. I don’t mind learning the extensive tuning over the winter but not during prime riding season. I’m in NY where we only get 4 months lol

 

Might be a dumb question but will removing the restrictions alone allow for the ECU to adjust fueling to compensate for the extra airflow provided by something like a full exhaust, or are other changes necessary? I’m guessing since you’re telling it to target a specific AFR the bike will adjust fueling accordingly, right?

I ask because I think I’d probably tune it before I add headers, and the aforementioned other tuner makes you pay for a new map if you change basically anything, including the exhaust.

 

Yes it will adjust to the target AFR but…. If you have a full exhaust or velocity stacks the engine may actually benefit from a different AFR. So the final answer is a yes and no haha

 

I got to test a tune this afternoon, and I am off tomorrow so I should have some free time if the weather plays nice. The tune is good but I am going to add more to the bottom of 2nd and try to get a few high speed pulls in tomorrow to see how it pulls. I did not mess with any timing tables. Just like @QuickSliver did ETV torque tables, AFR Closed loop and a few other AFR tables to reduce heat. I don't care for any cell that says 14.7, it just makes me feel bad for the bike. I don't have a dead spot down in 2nd but I think I can get away with adding more TQ, as when I stretched 2nd out the front started to come up around 11k I think. I ran a log, or I hope I did the light patterns were blinking correctly. Going to check it in a bit. Thank you to everyone who has added knowledge and those who ask good questions to make us all think.

Oh and someone is take screen shots and sending them to Troy lol, but Troy is a nice guy. I can't hate on a business model that works and they did always help me with my questions and concerns. Expensive...yes,but so is a happy meal these days 🤣 so make sure to screen shot this one

P.S. I was wrong, it wasn't Troy.

 

I got to test a tune this afternoon, and I am off tomorrow so I should have some free time if the weather plays nice. The tune is good but I am going to add more to the bottom of 2nd and try to get a few high speed pulls in tomorrow to see how it pulls. I did not mess with any timing tables. Just like @QuickSliver did ETV torque tables, AFR Closed loop and a few other AFR tables to reduce heat. I don't care for any cell that says 14.7, it just makes me feel bad for the bike. I don't have a dead spot down in 2nd but I think I can get away with adding more TQ, as when I stretched 2nd out the front started to come up around 11k I think. I ran a log, or I hope I did the light patterns were blinking correctly. Going to check it in a bit. Thank you to everyone who has added knowledge and those who ask good questions to make us all think.

Oh and someone is take screen shots and sending them to Troy lol, but Troy is a nice guy. I can't hate on a business model that works and they did always help me with my questions and concerns. Expensive...yes,but so is a happy meal these days 🤣 so make sure to screen shot this one

Who is Troy?

 

Hi all, I want to try to provide just an ever so slightly couple useful bits of information to try to give back to the thread considering how much @QuickSliver has provided in superb information. This is from an epically zero talented individual that wants to be as lazy as possible.
1. When using the really excellent DC power source that QuickSilver recommended, it wouldn't power my ECU properly for reading and so on until I set it to exactly 12V and gave it 1AMP max on that unit. Then hit output and attempted to read the ECU and all good to go!
2. Are you insanely incompetent and lazy like I am (you should see how bad I fail at terminating cat6), then you can buy the connector that came in parts with no wire (from Woolich) here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZTZY2N5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details One HUGE WARNING, they came reversed compared to what the woolich leads are coming as. You need to reverse the clips supplied form the DC power source given by QS. But they immediately plugged in and I didn't need to crimp or much of anything but order an overpriced part lol. If anyone has a better source let me know. I did use electrical tape (which I used earlier for another bike project) to insulate one of the clip connections.
3. Be warned that you may have to pull at least one zip tie off but possibly more when doing this process. The dealership where I got mine tied what I feel is every wire to every other nearby wire when possible. I'm not as able as quick silver so I had to pull the top tank fairing and the left and right fairings that connect to the seat area.
4. I am still considering live testing the tune adjustments at a track now that I figured out most of the process, I believe I can get it done in about 30 minutes with a little practice. (edit tune previous session, take bike apart over lunch?).
5. Edit, I used a jackery 300 and made sure it wasn't plugged into an outlet for both my laptop and DC power source (using a mini surge protector) and will likely bring it to the track if I try #4.

Now let's see how long it takes to blow up my bike! (ok I'm probably going even more conservative with my tune than most but maybe!)

 

Quick question? Why buy that 8 pin electrical connector from Amazon if the woolich kit comes with all of the connectors? Or would we need this also?

 

Found the script kiddy 🤣

Coming from a fellow script kiddy

 

Yep, I hate creating syntax, calling functions and all that junk in coding lol. I did it if I had to but to hell with doing it for fun

On a side note I tweaked the bin just now, and about to load it. I doubt I'll get to test it again today with the mist that's falling currently.

 

All the people in this post are awesome except me I'm just a bum cheating and copying stuff from people...

But I did have 2 quick and hopefully last questions for a long time:
1. I know what cold start and speed limiter are, does anyone have a good explaination of what the rest of the check boxes on that screen happen to be? I assume disabling the two is maybe all I need to do if I don't have aftermarket exhaust etc?
2. On the ETV Limit - Gear map, what are the map #'s related to? I can see race mode in almost all the rest of the screens when applicable (or gear etc), but this one I don't want to make an assumption.

Outside of that, everything else has been amazingly covered in this thread to this point.

 

1. If you have the exhaust valve still you can leave it unchecked. There is a table that can make the valve stay open all the time Other Maps-Exhaust Valve Opening do 100 in every cell.
pair valve can remain unchecked
evap can remain unchecked.
If you remove them later on add the check to the box. Speed limiter I leave checked but it shouldn't matter on these bikes.

2. I am not sure if you are opening the table to full screen or not. If you do slightly more information on the top of the table can be seen, values and y and x axis are up there. All 3 first maps are maxed at 100 factory. So Map Mode 4 is all that can be adjusted. That's what triggered my errors earlier when setting all to 100 in Map Mode 4. QuickSilver and others didn't have any issues with 100 in every cell on that Map Mode. I am now slowly working my way back up to see if I encounter that issue again. So basically it is limiting the amout the throttle valves can open when it sees a given RPM with a given ETV signal. The other safety systems on the bike will still over ride our natural stupidity to go faster and us trying to ignore the basic laws of physics lol.

 

Is there any word on when woolich will allow you to go full closed loop even after 9k rpm?

 

Are you wanting to stay in Open Loop and ignore the 02's? That's what we did back in the day. We increased the required temp level for the coolant to such a level (so high it would never be met) that the PC could never flip over to the closed loop system and start reading the 02's and altering cells. In open loop, we called it speed density also, the PC was forced to use the data you told it to use in the cells. Now I am trying to recall stuff I was doing back in 1996 lol, so it's a little fuzzy but I think in speed density it only uses the Engine coolant temp, manifold air pressure, and inlet air temperature. That way you can ditch the MAF(mass air flow) and remove that restriction in air flow, especially with boosted setups. The cars back then had crappy MAP, MAF sensors and ECUs. If I am wrong just smack me lol, I haven't messed with that stuff in a long time.

 

I wish Floyd @BMW_388 could contribute I’m sure he would drop some knowledge

 

Well here is the response from Woolich about adding those new features.

Hi JASON,

Your request to have a new feature added to this model has been passed on to our Development Team.

We are always striving to add new and commonly requested models and features to the WRT software and have any associated cables manufactured as quickly as possible. The more popular the request, the more priority it gets in the ongoing development of the Software.

Unfortunately, we cannot give any fixed time frames as to when new features will be released.
*Some features are not possible on certain models of bikes.
*Some features may not be cost effective to implement, such as when we have many large projects going on, or the target audience is very small.

Please keep an eye on our Homepage, or our FaceBook Page, and the Software Release Notes for updates regarding new models and features added.

Regards,
Woolich Racing Support

 

Could you guys post your stock ECU settings to Woolich MapShare (be sure to list ECU Part and Version). Mine is 9E4D85003C-980F85003C.

I'm having an issue where my stock file's values aren't the same with WRT v18.7.7.0 (ticket submitted) and I would like a sanity check against other stock ECU settings. I also can't use Rain mode after tuning (throttle valves fixed at 85% regardless of grip position).

I created a parity archive set using QuickPar when I first read the stock ECU (all backed up to Google Drive, have verified file is intact with both QuickPar and a SHA256 checksum against backups.

 

Also, I don't recall the Cylinder AFR settings being different for Cylinder 2, this is even after selecting "Revert Settings" in WRT. Is this right?

 

Mine appears the same

 

Just uploaded mine for ya

 

Here's Part 1 of the deltas I'm seeing between your stock file and mine:

 

To follow up, there wasn't anything in the data stream that GS911 could pull down that outwardly stated whether the DME was running in open or closed loop. I did see if there was a data PID on open/closed loop operation with my Toyota C-HR. I used a Thinktool Pros scan tool and didn't find anything listed in the 240+ data PIDs. I'm pretty sure I was able to see this with the 94 Cavalier Z24 and I think the 94 Camaro Z28 I had owned but those were OBD1 vehicles. I'll check again when I have time with my 97 F150 and my 2013 135i to see if there is a specific data PID on loop operation.

 

I noticed a few of those, but I am still at work and haven't had time to dig into them. I did see some large variances.

 

Funny thing is regardless of my RPM limit being 14750, the most I've seen in the BMW Motorrad Connected app from a ride is 14566.

You have to wonder if they grade the engines from the factory (like binning in semiconductor fabs). My ECU software is slightly newer than yours (3C vs 28).

 

i have a UPS

 

if you dont have gs911 how do you reset adaptions, can that be done in the WRT software

 

 

awesome 👍

 

Are there any features GS911 support that WRT software does not?

 

Not from what I see, minus some of the kombi changes that can be done via the gs911 now.

 

I’m guessing the flash of the bin file leaves a trace which dealer can see

 

I will venture a guess that it will.

 

I did upload my version 5 of the tune I have been playing with. I tested it today and it felt good. I want to install the wideband so I can see the AFR, just to make sure the ECU is doing its job correctly on fueling. The 2nd gear hole is gone, but from what I can see that is controlled via ETV values. The hole in the top of 5th, I am not so sure on. So I added fuel to around 12.9/12.8 and added a very, very small amount of timing up high in the Full Load and Full Load before Shift. If any of us share a map, I know we will all be digging though them and comparing to stock to verify there aren't any issues with the parameters. Which is a good thing and will help us all in the end. Also, and I don't think this will be an issue here lol, speak up if you see something that could be improved and list the reason why.

 

I'll try and test this out tomorrow by merging in your changes to my bin file. I've noticed the dead spot at the top of 5th as well.

 

Need to find out how timing is pulled when knock is detected, the Bosch ecu on my focus can pull up to 8 degrees when severe knock is encountered but need to know that max value for these ecus
Only ever add 1 degree at a time to be safe, adding 4 or 5 degrees or more will expire your motor for sure
Unfortunately engines run best and produce most power on the edge of knock so it’s a fine line to walk

 

Yeah in my past tuning experience 1 to 2 degrees made major changes, especially when near the threshold of knock. I only added about .08 on average on a few cells. I also made sure that same range had a target AFR of 12.8/12.9. I would like to know if these ECUs will report knock, or just pull the timing and keep moving forward. I remember a knock counter back in the day, old OBDI junk. I haven't noticed anything like that in this, yet.

 

Rode a couple of hours again today, 5th gear pull from 9k to redline was nice and linear and felt strong.

 

Hell yeah, we are getting there.

 

Which maps have you changed

 

Ignition Maps / Full Load and Full Load Before Shift- small amounts of timing were added, and nothing higher than .08. Upper RPM and ETV areas only.

Other Maps / Requested Torque - .10 to 7.6 % increases across the board. This table has room for improvement, those changes were very modest. This is the table that hates my bike and I get an ETV error if I go too high, others, like @QuickSliver , can make it 100% all the way across.

Other Maps / ETV Gear-Limit - most are doing 100% in all 4 Map Modes, my Map Mode #4 is not maxed out at 100% in all cells. I had all the upper RPMs maxed out and still had a hole at the top of 5th gear on the dyno on 2 pulls. So that made me look into the fueling and timing tables. I'll dyno it again soon and see if the timing helped clean up the dip. I believe my stock bin was altered due to the handheld I used on my bike before Woolich. It seems some cell modifications stayed in place when I flashed it back to stock. If I go to stock before getting the TOM map from BMW, I hope, I will use the file that @f18ccx uploaded to the Woolich map share.

Other Maps / Exhaust Valve by Gear & Exhaust Valve Opening - 100% open across the board.

Other Maps / Closed Loop Target AFR - before/normal/requested smoothed out the tables. I added fuel to some cells and some cells had fuel removed.

I wish we had a breakdown of the parameters for when it switches timing tables.