And what prior tuning experience do you have? Or is this your first time?

 

Just tuned my own vehicles and a few friends. I've tuned trucks, corvettes, CAN AM atv's, and another S1K. I've probably flashed my corvette at least 50 times already as it was my learning platform when I started 5 years ago. I've put 130k miles on my vette with no issues. I'm not out to tune for money or business. I just enjoy doing it. Kinda like when I build gaming computers.

 

interesting how restricted it is stock ok.
It is possible to tune different parameters with Wollich for each of the, for example throttle, levels available in the pro modes settings?

 

Not that I could find. '23-'24 Woolich ECU unlock was just released. Just the basic parameters are available at the moment. Settings such as quick shifter and traction control are not available. Hopefully with future updates they will be added. I believe the Race Pro modes are adjusted based off the default Race mode.

 

Wow...those changes are wild.

 

Is your local gas, 93, 92, 91?

 

91 and 93, depending on the gas station

 

Hey thanks for sharing this Quicksliver, it might make me stop looking at the kit and buy it lol. So are you going to use or are currently using their wide band and data logger? I was looking at that auto-tune package they have.

 

Nah. The bike is easy to tune. After removing the power restrictions and enrichening the fuel up a bit, I am happy with the bike. It is stupid fast now. Only issue now is the bike is eating up the rear tire pretty quick. lol But hey, got to pay to play.

 

It looks like the torque and ETV changes will reduce the effectiveness of proactive traction control. That means the bike will give more power to the wheel than traction allows and will wait for wheel speed sensors and reactive traction control to intervene.

My 2015 s1000rr was my first sportbike and my throttle control was not up to par. If I had these changes on my bike I would have high sided to the moon a couple of times. I needed the electronic aids to limit my wrist. To each his own of course but for someone new to sportbikes this could be a word of warning.

 

No. Because you can request 100% torque at any time through the RPM range if at WOT on the stock table. With T/C and wheelie control on, I can WOT and the bike just takes off like a rocket. I believe the Optimal Internal Torque table will affect the rider aids though. So I did not touch that map.

 

@QuickSliver This is absolutely amazing. And thanks everyone else for asking questions. I did have a couple questions hopefully really easy to answer (and keep in mind I'm a 100% novice here so they are honest questions, not comments on if the tune is bad or good etc, just learning):
1. On the ETV Gear Limit map, is gear zero neutral (and possibly where clutch is in fully) correct? Wouldn't it be relatively bad for the engine to allow a max rev out of it in N with no resistance?
2. Is there any compensation in the maps for the cam shift between the two cam sets (torque cams and power cams) and how they work differently? I do notice that the AFR in stock goes to 13.1 at 9k when the cams would switch over.
3. Any idea why the requested Torque and ETV Gear limits have what look like random non-curve/non-linear numbers in the factory settings? (Gear Limits having way more random sequences in each gear and gear vs gear at the same RPM).
4. How does this change (if anything) launch control and how the engine performs?

Really appreciate the post. I'm likely to go this route and put together a tune that is closer to just a pure flat spot removal + high idle start + fan start earlier. If it goes well, you may have even saved me from a really bad track crash or total bike. The EPA lag is so bad I've nearly biffed it twice on major tracks and went off on a smaller local track trying to pass on small straights. Unpredictable (relatively) throttle response is just as dangerous if not more so than massive but smooth response.

 

The way my tune is set up, is basically for full control of the available power of the engine. My right hand is controlling the power of the engine and not the ECU, in a sense. Don't confuse the 100% torque with instability. Just because you may be at 100% throttle and torque, doesn't mean the engine is at 100% of its full torque at all RPMs. You're not getting 80ft lbs of torque at 2k RPM. The engine is not physically capable of it at that RPM. If you are in neutral, the engine cannot rev up unless you twist the throttle. The ETV Gear Limit is just that, a limit. It just limits the opening of the throttle relative to twist grip position. At 100% of the whole map, the limits are now gone, and the twist grip is at 1:1 with the throttle. Example - 50% twist grip = 50% throttle, as before it might have only been 50% twist grip = 30% throttle.

Only the intake cam can shift. It acts as a mid RPM cam at lower RPMs and when it switches over, it acts a high RPM cam. It is not a variable camshaft like in cars. So I don't believe the cam can be tuned and it wouldn't make sense to mess with it unless you changed out the airbox and effected airflow.

Yes, the non-curve/non-linear numbers in the factory settings are jacked up and make no sense. Maybe a Ducati spy got in there and messed it all up because they are losing in WSBK. haha. Real tuning isn't just about HP numbers. Its about making an engine run at is full potential and efficiency. Alot of it is due to EPA regulations and manufactures finding any way they can to meet those requirements. Of course manufacturers will never inform their customers of this, because no one would buy their cars. That is where the tuner world comes in.

Not sure about launch control as I have never used it. It is awful for the gear box and clutch. As far as engine performance in my case, the bike is wicked fast. Throttle feels so much better and linear. I've done several WOT pulls through all the gears and the bike is just incredible. Just about everything I have done is what other tuners are doing, such as a Bren tune. Except the B/T partially tunes the bike and he calls it a '1 stage. Then if you buy his '2 stage', he just removes the rest of the map restrictions. He's a scam. His 'velocity stacks' are just a gimmick to make people believe he did some super tune. He is basically double dipping on just one tune. Most of the blown engines have had Bren tunes. It's because he screws with the timing maps which can cause detonation in the cylinders. He also increases the RPM limit, which causes valve float. The BMWs have adaptive timing and do not need timing adjustments. The tuning for hire world is shady. Its why I got into tuning my own vehicles. I want it done correctly and safe.

 

This is great! I have tuned with Woolich R1 & GSXR1000, never S1k. All look similar, all settings make sense except AFR below.
Sucks you cannot adjust QS timing. Could you share what you have on your bike? Block off plates, any air sensors left in exhaust? AIR system removed or not, etc...

How did you decide on below target AFR values? Are you tuning for stock exhaust & air filter?
With or without a dyno?

Finally, which items did you buy from woolich? Using log box or not? If not, you are a smart guy. It did not work well on R1, had to get rid of it.

 

This is great! I have tuned with Woolich R1 & GSXR1000, never S1k. All look similar, all settings make sense except AFR below.
Sucks you cannot adjust QS timing. Could you share what you have on your bike? Block off plates, any air sensors left in exhaust? AIR system removed or not, etc...

How did you decide on below target AFR values? Are you tuning for stock exhaust & air filter?
With or without a dyno?

Finally, which items did you buy from woolich? Using log box or not? If not, you are a smart guy. It did not work well on R1, had to get rid of it.

View attachment 230920

I only have the full Akra Ti exhaust and kept all stock O2 sensors. Nothing else. Block off plates will be next, for the SAS and intake flapper doors.

No dyno. The O2 sensors are wide band, which really makes a dyno tune unnecessary. A 13ish AFR is perfect for N/A engines. No lean spots and not too rich, but just enough fuel for increased performance with the better flowing exhaust. I set 14.1 AFR in the lower throttle range for fuel efficiency but just enough to keep it from running lean and keep temps down. I did not change any values down low on the idle range because there is basically no load on the engine and a 1:1 fuel ratio (14.7 grams of air : 1 gram of fuel) is perfect. All a dyno tune does is tune for a target AFR and max ignition timing. The BMW does this automatically based off the Target AFR and Timing tables. It can do this because the ECU is using built-in wide band O2 sensors, just like a dyno tuner would use on the end of an exhaust tail pipe. The BMW has several different timing maps that can be adapted to on the fly. The knock sensors determine what map to use. The tuning approach is very different compared to engines with just narrow band O2 sensors. Which make this bike easy to tune and why I am sharing my info. Most dyno tunes are pushing the engine to the ragged edge all in the name of chasing HP numbers, because HP numbers sell. I keep my engine away from that edge. I don't compete in races, so max power is not my goal. Race engines don't last long and need to be rebuilt often.

I am just using the basic kit from Woolich, 2019-2024 BMW S1000RR - Log Box B v3 Package. However, for ECU flashing for this bike, the OBD port cannot be used by Woolich at the moment, and you will need to plug in directly to the bike's ECU, which is easy. Only the forward fuel tank top cover and left side tank fairing have to come off. Then the ECU can be pulled forward and rotated just a small amount and the wire harness ports are easily accessible. Then you can supply a 12v power supply to the Woolich bench harness or in my case I just used a DC power supply instead of a battery. I run it at 13.5v, because that is a full charge for a battery.

 

Would this be considered a full closed loop tune? Also, did you mess with the timing at all? Will the bike automatically advance the timing due to the extra fuel? I am considering this method!

edit- never mind, I see you can only do the closed loop running up to 9k rpm. Is there anyway to do the higher rpm ranges with this unit as well?

 

From what I can tell, there is a Closed Loop AFR map, and a Fuel map. So I'm assuming the fuel map is the 'open loop' and is based off the closed loop AFR map. Not certain, but thats why I increased the Fuel map by 5%.

The ECU will increase timing according to the Ignition maps. Each map has its own maximum timing values. If knock is detected, it will switch to the next best map. The Optimal fuel maps have pretty high timing values. In my opinion, I would not change anything. The knock sensors are only calibrated to detect so much knock (noise). Extreme knock (loud noise) is filtered out.

Yes, you can go max RPM closed loop. 'Before Shift' means before 9k RPM when before the cam shift. 'After Shift' is after the cam shift, which goes up to 14k RPM.

 

I wonder if it would be harder for BMW to deny a warranty claim if you left the majority of the tuning alone and just tuned out the epa bullsh**. If the timing and a/f ratio was untouched along with the stock redline then you didn’t really change anything other than give back the torque they stole through the electronic throttle and air flappers. I’m sure they would still deny if you somehow blew up your engine but seems like you’d have a better court case if you wanted to go that route. The $$ spent on the lawsuit would cost more than getting the bike fixed lol but I wonder how it would go.

 

Yes. I was thinking that also as I was making the changes to my tune before I did the ECU flash. No lean conditions and timing untouched. Definitely never increase the RPM limit. You'll get slappy valves. haha

 

Can anyone confirm if Woolich flash can be detected by dealerships? I know hand held tuners (BT, SLR, etc...) update a flash counter that dealerships can check if an ECU is flashed.
A full write of ECU tables flash won't be detected with above or one that keeps flash counter intact. I tried asking Woolich, but they won't confirm it lol.

 

Can anyone confirm if Woolich flash can be detected by dealerships? I know hand held tuners (BT, SLR, etc...) update a flash counter that dealerships can check if an ECU is flashed.
A full write of ECU tables flash won't be detected with above or one that keeps flash counter intact. I tried asking Woolich, but they won't confirm it lol.

Honestly, you would have to know an insider at BMW or a dealership to get a legit answer.

 

 

@QuickSliver any advantage to using power supply Vs laptop plugged in wall outlet & set never to go to sleep to power ECU? In case of a power outage the laptop has a battery and would be less risky. Unless the power supply has backup power battery. I have always used a laptop to power ECU.

Actually someone at Woolich would know about flash detectability, they are the only ones who know what ECU tables they are changing.

 

Wouldn’t the BMW ecu know if anything was changed? All their itsa system would have to do is check cell by cell to see if there were any anomalies which should be very easy in 2024. I must admit though, I know nothing about this system!

 

Wouldn’t the BMW ecu know if anything was changed? All their itsa system would have to do is check cell by cell to see if there were any anomalies which should be very easy in 2024. I must admit though, I know nothing about this system!

They could technically write detection algorithms or something within the firmware/bios that tracks it and cannot be overriden, however, because I would guess something close to 98% of tunes that cause issues have very obvious signs (such as excessive rev limit) that it's not worth it to actually go out and spend to have this done. In addition, they KNOW these machines are destroyed by EPA and soon to come EU restrictions that they don't want to make it completely against warranty to tune the machines. Many dealers already help customers by installing BT/SLR etc.

@QuickSliver any advantage to using power supply Vs laptop plugged in wall outlet & set never to go to sleep to power ECU? In case of a power outage the laptop has a battery and would be less risky. Unless the power supply has backup power battery. I have always used a laptop to power ECU.

Actually someone at Woolich would know about flash detectability, they are the only ones who know what ECU tables they are changing.

z00, the laptop cannot power the ECU itself. It's writing (or reading) via the connection but it's not providing power (as far as how quick setup everything). He's using the device he posted to power the bike ECU using pos/neg connections regulated very carefully by the DC power source. I believe if you were really worried about it (which I am), you can get a portable power supply (that can be wall charged) and plug it in so that if the power goes out everything still stays up and doesn't brick your ECU. You can also for measure, plug in the laptop to the PPS just in case the battery on the laptop somehow in a million years fails and reverts back to it's charger for staying up (or you forget to charge the laptop and you keep it alive).

I am probably going to do some setup like that so that during a upcoming track day I can adjust the tune at the track and then next break between sessions flash the bike (taking the tank off and such as he mentions is pretty quick and simple after one or two times). It can be done within 40 minutes (including the flash) if you have everything setup and don't make mistakes while trying to reinstall the fairings because you are rushing. Maybe @QuickSliver can verify this is correct and not a totally crazy and stupid thing to try.

 

They could technically write detection algorithms or something within the firmware/bios that tracks it and cannot be overriden, however, because I would guess something close to 98% of tunes that cause issues have very obvious signs (such as excessive rev limit) that it's not worth it to actually go out and spend to have this done. In addition, they KNOW these machines are destroyed by EPA and soon to come EU restrictions that they don't want to make it completely against warranty to tune the machines. Many dealers already help customers by installing BT/SLR etc.



z00, the laptop cannot power the ECU itself. It's writing (or reading) via the connection but it's not providing power (as far as how quick setup everything). He's using the device he posted to power the bike ECU using pos/neg connections regulated very carefully by the DC power source. I believe if you were really worried about it (which I am), you can get a portable power supply (that can be wall charged) and plug it in so that if the power goes out everything still stays up and doesn't brick your ECU. You can also for measure, plug in the laptop to the PPS just in case the battery on the laptop somehow in a million years fails and reverts back to it's charger for staying up (or you forget to charge the laptop and you keep it alive).

I am probably going to do some setup like that so that during a upcoming track day I can adjust the tune at the track and then next break between sessions flash the bike (taking the tank off and such as he mentions is pretty quick and simple after one or two times). It can be done within 40 minutes (including the flash) if you have everything setup and don't make mistakes while trying to reinstall the fairings because you are rushing. Maybe @QuickSliver can verify this is correct and not a totally crazy and stupid thing to try.

Correct, PC cannot power the ECU. A 12v battery will work. But it is important to make sure it is charged. At least 13v to be safe. You could even run black/red power wires to the battery on the bike. As you can see from the pictures on the DC power supply, the ECU is only drawing 0.37 amps. No connection to the ECU or power is required when making adjustments in the Woolich software. Only when flashing, which only takes a few minutes.

 

Check out some of these for some eyes on example that you can follow along with.

That will lead you down some nice rabbit holes lol. David B seems to do decent videos and let's you learn from his mistakes and learning experiences.

 

HI. @QuickSliver Looks like you have a nice setup!! I am looking to do the same if not similar type of tune. I just want the HP bought with my bike. I still have 400mi till i am done with break in period. I am following this thread to see the updates, but I may PM you for points/guidance on the Woolich tune. Ive read the BT has fried some pistons and engines.

I already have a full Arrow GP exhaust its loud now with pops and bangs. So i wont be attempting this tune for another 3 weeks or so.

Great info and pics and looking for more info.

Thanks
E

 

HI. @QuickSliver Looks like you have a nice setup!! I am looking to do the same if not similar type of tune. I just want the HP bought with my bike. I still have 400mi till i am done with break in period. I am following this thread to see the updates, but I may PM you for points/guidance on the Woolich tune. Ive read the BT has fried some pistons and engines.

I already have a full Arrow GP exhaust its loud now with pops and bangs. So i wont be attempting this tune for another 3 weeks or so.

Great info and pics and looking for more info.

Thanks
E

Thank you. As far as bringing back the HP, this is what my post is about. Simply removing the EPA and factory restrictions. It definitely is not a BT. So, nothing is at risk. The tune maps that I attached at the beginning of the post is all you need. Just a few simple changes and its done. Then since you already have your own tuning software (Woolich), you can always make changes whenever you want, including flashing your ECU back to the stock file.

Yes, I have the pops/bangs from my full system Akra exhaust also. However, it only happens below 4k RPM. This may be due to the SAS opening under 4k RPM, but not sure. So, I am experimenting with the Timing maps to try and find which one can be tuned for higher RPM pop/bangs. But I tune for a rumble/boom type sound. So, tuning the timing takes fineness. So far, the Fuel Timing maps did nothing. So, I changed back to stock values and now I have tuned the Best Timing maps. Haven't had a chance to flash the ECU again to test it. But will report my findings if I am successful.

 

[...]Most of the blown engines have had Bren tunes. It's because he screws with the timing maps which can cause detonation in the cylinders. He also increases the RPM limit, which causes valve float. The BMWs have adaptive timing and do not need timing adjustments. The tuning for hire world is shady. Its why I got into tuning my own vehicles. I want it done correctly and safe.

[...]So, I am experimenting with the Timing maps to try and find which one can be tuned for higher RPM pop/bangs. But I tune for a rumble/boom type sound. So, tuning the timing takes fineness. So far, the Fuel Timing maps did nothing. So, I changed back to stock values and now I have tuned the Best Timing maps. Haven't had a chance to flash the ECU again to test it. But will report my findings if I am successful.

sorry i couldn't help myself 🤣

 

Ah, yes my grasshopper. Prepare for some good old wisdom from Masa Sliver.

For pops/bangs, you retard timing in the first 3 rows/columns in the timing table, which ever one is the throttle valve cells, not RPM. Basically, when the throttle is at idle. Since you are removing timing from the stock values, no engine go boom boom. Advancing timing goes boom boom. 😁

 

Hey @QuickSliver just a quick piece of feedback. I found an interesting piece of information and sent in a couple questions and wasn't 100% happy with their response. If you are running a '23 or newer, you can actually connect either harness type 3 or 4 to the back/seat area (type 3 does initially require removing the rear fairings to set it up for the first time). They believed you would get better data from the Type 3 harness, however when I went and pulled data I got all the same data points but maybe it's more accurate but I kind of doubt it. Type four goes into the connection the dealership uses to likely update and check the bike (someone can correct me if I'm wrong but the amount of work and the fact type 3 connection hasn't been moved since they put my bike together makes me think they wouldn't go through the whole ordeal). What's really interesting is, with type 4, there's no issue, when the bike is off and I have log set to only read during engine on, it separates nicely into files to read. However, with type 3 (which I believe is what they recommend), if I turn off my bike while log box is connected to it, the bike will actually electronically turn back on again and display a ton of faults similar to how it would be when the ECU is flashing and it won't stop reading the data (even though the bike is supposed to be off). If you didn't realize that the first time or forgot you kept your log box connected and left your bike for a while, you could technically drain your bike and get stranded.

Did you have the same experiences so far with it?

[edit for terrible gramur]

 

Thanks for sharing that, installing this weekend and that just helped me make up my mind.

 

@QuickSliver How about the Closed Loop Target AFR Group Requested & Normal? Have you looked at adding fuel to those tables? is the areas of 14.7 especially, some of those transitions seem very non-linear.

 

I set all the table the same values.

 

Yep here is the 2nd question of many, what in the Woolich software would trigger the throttle valves to be sitting at 85% when in the factory tune they are in the low 30% range. This causes a massive rev at startup. I have looked back through the tables and I did the adaptation resets but the 80% lingers. I could start with another factory bin and alter and write multiple times until I see the chnge occur, but I figured it would save time to ask lol.

 

Disable cold start and set idle RPM to 1050. Cold start is only for quick warmup of the exhaust cat. This is my setup and the bike starts and idles very nice. But this is with a full exhaust, no cat.

 

Well I flashed the ECU 1 area at a time. Looking for the issue to repeat on one of the areas I modified, and I was not able to replicate the issue. The tune is in the bike now and the EVT is sitting at 30% (give or take a point). I took it for a test ride, and I didn't get as aggressive as you did in the Torque maps, so I can still feel some of the 2nd gear hole. So I'll be digging in the stock bin more now that I have something stable to work with. Thanks @QuickSliver and everyone else for contributing to the cause!

 

Hey @jasonisdn, I assume your maps are based off the initial ECU read correct? As in, the very very first absolute thing you did was read over your bin file from the bike into a file (and likely copy it and send another copy to fort knox for safe keeping)?

 

FYI, the foundation course is free.

https://www.woolichracing.com/training.aspx

 

Ok let me try to explain this in more detail, I have issues at work with explaining stuff to coworkers because I am impatient and a little bit of a smart ass, even when I am not trying to be. So please tolerate my bad habits for this issue.
I am flashing my bike without issue. I rode the bike today with the tune in it. I am happy with its direction and grateful to everyone who has added information and has brought up good questions that make me think and dig deeper into the data. Thank you @QuickSliver for helping me spend my money lol.

There is 1, just 1, table that is not working for me the way it does for QuickSilver, and that is the ETV-Requested Torque. This is the table in factory from my '24 S1Krr.

If you use the table as is, you will get this result from your Hex 911.

Please notice the Throttle Valve Senor both 1 and 2, this is in a non-running state, just the bike powered on for scanning purposes. Yes, the adaptations have been reset at this point, if you are wondering. The adaptations did not alter/resolve this issue. The picture below is the bike running on said tune during that same scan.

Once I flash the ECU with the below values on the ETV-Requested Torque..Which is what QuickSilver can do with his bike

The values on the throttle valve sensors change dramatically.

If you crank the bike with this setting it will welcome you with something that sounds like a dragon dying (watching Game of Thrones with the wife, sue me lol). In other words a rev bomb. I, while also typing this, just added 50% to the ETV- Requested Tourqe Table to see how the Throttle valve sensors like it. So maybe all of that data will help everyone understand I am not trying to figure out to flash, I am trying to figure out how a table that needs ETV and RPMs to choose how much TQ will be delivered can affect the EVT so much at idle or when not even running. If you feel like I have left anything out please ask me to clarify. That is the setup I have in the kitchen for flashing until the wife kills me

 

Ok let me try to explain this in more detail, I have issues at work and explaining stuff to coworkers because I am impatient and a little bit of a smart ass, even when I am not trying to be. So please tolerate my bad habits for this issue.
I am flashing my bike without issue. I rode the bike today with the tune in it. I am happy with its direction and grateful to everyone who has added information and has brought up good questions that make me think and dig deeper into the data. Thank you @QuickSliver for helping me spend my money lol.

There is 1, just 1, table that is not working for me the way it does for QuickSilver, and that is the ETV-Requested Torque. This is the table in factory from my '24 S1Krr. View attachment 231073

If you use the table as is, you will get this result from your Hex 911.
View attachment 231074
Please notice the Throttle Valve Senor both 1 and 2, this is in a non-running state, just the bike powered on for scanning purposes. Yes, the adaptations have been reset at this point, if you are wondering. The adaptations did not alter/resolve this issue. The picture below is the bike running on said tune during that same scan.
View attachment 231075
Once I flash the ECU with the below values on the ETV-Requested Torque..Which is what QuickSilver can do with his bike
View attachment 231076

The values on the throttle valve sensors change dramatically.
View attachment 231077
If you crank the bike with this setting it will welcome you with something that sounds like a dragon dying (watching Game of Thrones with the wife, sue me lol). In other words a rev bomb. I, while also typing this, just added 50% to the ETV- Requested Tourqe Table to see how the Throttle valve sensors like it. So maybe all of that data will help everyone understand I am not trying to figure out to flash, I am trying to figure out how a table that needs ETV and RPMs to choose how much TQ will be delivered can affect the EVT so much at idle or when not even running. If you feel like I have left anything out please ask me to clarify. That is the setup I have in the kitchen for flashing until the wife kills me View attachment 231078

By having the throttle valve- requested torque at 100 at such a low rpm (starting) could be it letting way to much air in and forcing the rpm higher? That’s similar to what happens when you mess with a carburetor and open the air too much, it’s causes the rpm to shoot up. I also could be an idiot?!

 

Slight update and issue.
The table listed above triggered the bike to go into limp mode. When I pulled the ECU out of the bike to adjust the table I developed a issue with the Woolich software communication to the ECU. It will state that "The ECU VIN is not available..." But I can still read and pull the VIN from the ECU. I contacted their support team and they asked me to read the ECU. They asked that I try to write that same Bin back to the ECU. That test failed with the same error code. They then asked me to pull the VIN itself and take screenshots of all of the output of said tests. So now that all of those basic tests have failed they have elevated the ticket to the level 3 & development team.

"Hi JASON,

Not a problem, thanks for sending the photos and trying the test.

We received the bin file and it looks to be intact but I will ask the development team to take a look.

Your support ticket has been assigned to the Support Level 3 and the Development Team.

Due to the technical nature of the ticket, it may require a significant amount of time and effort to investigate. The Development Team will not be able to respond with ongoing status updates, and will only respond if they require additional information, have something they would like you to test, or to notify you they have released an update to solve the issue."

 

Damn that sucks man, I’m sorry to hear that. It’s never easy being a pioneer! Hopefully they can get things straightened out so you can get back to riding! I hope it’s something stupid and easy to fix because if I’d still like to go this route