[verrucktaxe]

Not a bad video for a U-Haul trailer that doesn't have a real front wheel chock, but does have a full width ramp. I wish more time had been spent on schooling about compressing the suspension for any noobies and I'll just add this. I NEVER ride the bike on or off my trailer, or wear sandals doing it either. Ever go to the track when it's raining or the metal trailer deck is wet? Just think of wet grating on a bridge. Makes your sphincter tighten, right? When the bike goes sideways when the wheel starts spinning who you gonna call?

Now, I have a low Kendon trailer with a narrow ramp like that used by pickup truck riders, and I always load my bike(s) by myself (age 73) without issue or drama by walking it up and down. I followed BMW's recommendation for triple-tree tiedowns for years, but found them to be a real pain in the ass with farings on, so I switched to Canyon Dancers. My old '10 RR doesn't have heated grips, but the "secret" is, with a decent chock up front don't ratchet them down too hard, and make sure you're balancing the leverage on both sides as well as front to rear as you go. I carry a small length of 2 x 4 I put under the sidestand to level the bike up on this trailer before adding any pressure what-so-ever to either front end straps, and I take it back out after loosely attaching both front straps to the Canyon Dancers. Yes, I've used micro-fiber towels with the CD's too. That takes a lot of the strain off the grips themselves. You're just trying to keep the front wheel in the chock, so it doesn't jump around, so don't compress the suspension more than an inch, and definitely not enough to bend or break off the clip-ons. That's the real danger. Nothing wrong with "ratchets" other than potentially stupid or ignorant operator error. Install tiedowns on the rear and you should be all good back there. Not sure I'd use my swingarm as a tie down point either. I'd elect the upper frame back there.

Some good tips, few things I would change:

1. Use the triple to strap the front to avoid putting any load on grips/electronics. It's what BMW recommends in manual.
2. I would add to keep it in 2nd gear to avoid bike rolling. Reduces longitudinal stress on straps.
3. I would use the subframe/pegs instead of swingarm for rear strap, you would want the support as high as possible to reduce lateral load on front and keep bike secure under abrupt maneuvers.

appreciate added details:
-wouldn't wear sandals on wet metal either, but i prefer riding up and down as i feel more stable/comfortable doing that vs. walking it, but to each their own.
-yes, i've used the rear pass pegs every time before, but i just switched to the single CF exh brackets, so just grabbed the swingarm instead
-as far as keeping it in 2nd gear during the ride? someone told me ages ago to never leave it in gear as bumps, etc. could create unwanted forces in the gears. was never proven to me, but just leave it in neutral to be safe. i feel like the straps and compression of the rubber tire against the front have a bit more elasticity over bumps than tran gears, but that's just my preference.

 

[capoeira_r1]

This is how i do it

 

[S1KRRRR]

I let the wheel choke do most of the work, once in I’ll strap the wheel to the wheel choke and the use canyon dancers very lightly on front and Use my passenger pegs for rear straps, never tightening down to hard. With this method you have to check your straps every 100 miles for tightness and piece of mind. Straps do loosen up, vibration, getting wet and for whetever other reason. Strapping the front wheel to the wheel choke made a big difference.

 

[z00]

-wouldn't wear sandals on wet metal either, but i prefer riding up and down as i feel more stable/comfortable doing that vs. walking it, but to each their own.

-as far as keeping it in 2nd gear during the ride? someone told me ages ago to never leave it in gear as bumps, etc. could create unwanted forces in the gears. was never proven to me, but just leave it in neutral to be safe. i feel like the straps and compression of the rubber tire against the front have a bit more elasticity over bumps than tran gears, but that's just my preference.

- I think you misunderstood my 1st point, it's about not strapping to handle bar. But to triple from under the fairing.

- if bike is left in N, straps get loose, no safety net. Leaving in gear will only put load on engine if straps are loose. If you put bike in gear, spin the rear wheel, it will still move a bit. That's enough slack to cover any bumps in case bike moves. But I'll take the safety net.

Would be interesting to get some feedback from mechanics/engineers if Neutral vs in gear during transport is better. @BMW_388

 

[speedfinn]

A "friend" one time loaded his bike in a Condor chock in an enclosed trailer and got distracted, forgetting to tie it down further. The trip was short - roughly 1/2 hour - but the bike was just fine without any tie downs!

I have done 5h trip, bike only on rear stand, no problemo. "Ooops..."

 

[speedfinn]

I use rear stand, and one strap from rear wheel pulling backwards, and let the bike weight bounce on rear suspension.
And two straps in front, from crash pads, one on each side, not tight/ very little tension, and let some of the bike weight bounce on front suspension in big bumps.
Some 200-300 x 1-6h trips.

 

[BMW_388]

The old thought of 'dont tow your car in a gear' was due to interference motors mostly. An interference engine is a where it cannot be rolled backwards or the piston will contact the valve and bend it. So with a car/truck/mtorcycle on a trailer not well strapped down, and in a gear, the motion of start and stopping would allow the engine to move forward and backwards rotation. So the rule of thumb was never tow your car/truck/motorcycle in gear strapped down.

BMW S1000RR is not an interference engine ( stock ). So there is little worry to it being in gear while being towed. You really want the bike anyway to be so well secured there is no motion forward or backwards. I use the PitBull TRS and I can say it is 100% the best way to put your motorcycle on the trailer and travel down the road. Zero movement and there is even a story about a roll over trailer with the bike on a TRS and it was undamaged.

Trailer Restraint System - What if the trailer flips over?

Pit Bull Products, Inc. Trailer Restraint System - What if the trailer flips over?

www.pit-bull.com

 

[speedfinn]

You really want the bike anyway to be so well secured there is no motion forward or backwards.

Or, to be exact, it can move to any direction a little bit, but not so much that it could cause straps to get loose.
Then it is much easyer to avoid all kind of strap down as much as you can and break the clipons etc -situations.

 

[ZZZ]

The old thought of 'dont tow your car in a gear' was due to interference motors mostly. An interference engine is a where it cannot be rolled backwards or the piston will contact the valve and bend it. So with a car/truck/mtorcycle on a trailer not well strapped down, and in a gear, the motion of start and stopping would allow the engine to move forward and backwards rotation. So the rule of thumb was never tow your car/truck/motorcycle in gear strapped down.

BMW S1000RR is not an interference engine ( stock ). So there is little worry to it being in gear while being towed. You really want the bike anyway to be so well secured there is no motion forward or backwards. I use the PitBull TRS and I can say it is 100% the best way to put your motorcycle on the trailer and travel down the road. Zero movement and there is even a story about a roll over trailer with the bike on a TRS and it was undamaged.

Trailer Restraint System - What if the trailer flips over?

Pit Bull Products, Inc. Trailer Restraint System - What if the trailer flips over?

www.pit-bull.com

I'd have to disagree on the interference engine thing. Mechanically, there's no reason it could be interference going backwards, but not forwards. And to my knowledge, interference engines mean that if the cam belt or chain breaks (or even slips a tooth) the pistons WILL hit the valves. Non-interference (usually lower-performance/lower compression) engines have a slight gap between the valve at full lift and the piston at TDC. I can't imagine the BMW being a non-interference motor since it's over 13:1 compression.
What is a Non-Interference Engine? (napaonline.com)

 

[z00]

Ok, let's not get theoretical.

With TRS or straps, should bike be in N or gear during transport?

 

[ZZZ]

Ok, let's not get theoretical.

With TRS or straps, should bike be in N or gear during transport?

I can't imagine any load being put on the transmission gearset by putting it in a wheel chock that is anywhere near to or equal to the stress put on it by RIDING it. Also, if you can get it into gear while in the chock, that most likely means that you did it because of the current slack in the chain and gearset (otherwise it'd be way more difficult) and the bike would have to move a certain amount (taking up the slack in the chain/gearset) before putting any load from any fore/aft movement into the gearset anyways. Which the straps should prevent. I put mine in gear just so that if I take the straps off after arriving, that the bike can't just roll backwards out of the chock. My chock has a part at the back that prevents this anyways, but it's an old habit and can't hurt anything, so why not?

 

[EBR]

Ok, let's not get theoretical.

With TRS or straps, should bike be in N or gear during transport?

To me, it‘s a personal preference. I put it in N when using TRS or straps. In vehicles with Park, like ATV, I put it in Park. Maybe it should be in N too.

 

[Garagemoto7]

When I initially purchased my bike I hauled it from Detroit to Ohio.. and used Rhino motorcycle straps from Amazon and U-haul. I was quite concerned as this was the first time hauling a trailer and to top it a brand new bike but it had to be done. For the front I used the forks to get it strapped and back I utilized the peg, it was very stable as I frequently made stops to check the straps. Some pictures of it below.

With that said I need input/tips best way to secure the bike in a mini van-

so this morning I went to harbor freight and got the ramps.. been wanting to try this for a while and finally did it. The height of the bike sits at 40-41” without windscreen and the odyssey trunk opening sits at 42”. So I knew it’s gonna be a close fit.With the help of-the mailman and the wife was able to successfully get it loaded and unloaded. It’s definitely at least 2 person job with 3 being best. I’m planning of using Maxhall wheel choke to stabilize the bike inside and then strap it down. Has anyone-tried doing this in a mini van if so did you guys face any issue with it? The only downside IMO is it needs two person to get it on and off.. didn’t drive with it so cannot speak on the stability. Had my hands full so couldn’t get picture with the bike inside… but there is at least 1-2” room height wise once it’s inside.

Reason for using a mini van cuz it’s all I got lol.. I work from home and when I go to work I use Honda Civic coupe.. the wife’s car is an Outback but does not have a hitch.. even if I get a hitch installed she would need that car for the kids.. currently not thinking of buying a truck just so I can haul my bike around.

 

[ZZZ]

When I initially purchased my bike I hauled it from Detroit to Ohio.. and used Rhino motorcycle straps from Amazon and U-haul. I was quite concerned as this was the first time hauling a trailer and to top it a brand new bike but it had to be done. For the front I used the forks to get it strapped and back I utilized the peg, it was very stable as I frequently made stops to check the straps. Some pictures of it below.

With that said I need input/tips best way to secure the bike in a mini van-

so this morning I went to harbor freight and got the ramps.. been wanting to try this for a while and finally did it. The height of the bike sits at 40-41” without windscreen and the odyssey trunk opening sits at 42”. So I knew it’s gonna be a close fit.With the help of-the mailman and the wife was able to successfully get it loaded and unloaded. It’s definitely at least 2 person job with 3 being best. I’m planning of using Maxhall wheel choke to stabilize the bike inside and then strap it down. Has anyone-tried doing this in a mini van if so did you guys face any issue with it? The only downside IMO is it needs two person to get it on and off.. didn’t drive with it so cannot speak on the stability. Had my hands full so couldn’t get picture with the bike inside… but there is at least 1-2” room height wise once it’s inside.

Reason for using a mini van cuz it’s all I got lol.. I work from home and when I go to work I use Honda Civic coupe.. the wife’s car is an Outback but does not have a hitch.. even if I get a hitch installed she would need that car for the kids.. currently not thinking of buying a truck just so I can haul my bike around.



View attachment 218000 View attachment 218001

Oh man, I wouldn't even TRY and load that in the minivan. First of, it'll be a TOTAL b!tch just getting it in and out. Second, you don't know if the floor of the minivan will support all that weight per square inch considering that the 420lbs or so will ONLY be concentrated into 2 small contact patches. When they give a load rating for things like minivans, they consider that the load will be evenly distributed, which this isn't. For those trips where you want to bring the bike, I'd suggest just renting a U-Haul for the weekend or whatever.

No offense, but IMO you tied it down wrong. You ALWAYS want to tie it from the highest solid point on the bike, to the lowest solid point on the trailer. So, you should have used a Canyon Dancer (or at least soft straps on the bottom triple clamp) to tie to the ring anchors in the far front corners of the trailer instead of the ones right next to the wheel. This makes it MUCH more stable left-to-right. And since you have a built-in wheel chock in the front, the bike can't move forward, but it CAN move backwards. So, the rear tiedowns should have been anchored to those low ring anchors slightly ahead of the rear wheel, not to the anchors behind. What you want, is if any of the straps fail, that the other straps are still always pulling the bike down and FORWARD into the chock. For instance, if your front strap had failed, the rear straps (under tension) would have pulled the bike backwards, OUT of the wheel chock, and it would have fallen over or, if it was in neutral (why I ALWAYS put mine in gear), pulled it OUT of the trailer to drag behind. I had a friend who had a strap fail, and his racebike DID fall out just like that and get dragged for a distance before he realized his bike wasn't in the trailer anymore! Luckily the damage wasn't too bad since it was kinda beat up and had race fairings (now even MORE roadrashed up) and all kinds of sliders and case protectors. With the way I specified, even if a strap had failed, the other straps are still all pulling the bike DOWN and INTO the wheel chock. I usually have 2 straps per side up front (because those are the more critical straps), and one strap per side in back. In general, you want the anchor points as low as as far apart as you can get them. Think about how much more stable your stance is if your feet are wider apart than if they were side-by-side. Make sense?

Glad you got your beautiful new ride home ok, and hope you have many happy and safe miles and years on her!

 

[Garagemoto7]

Oh man, I wouldn't even TRY and load that in the minivan. First of, it'll be a TOTAL b!tch just getting it in and out. Second, you don't know if the floor of the minivan will support all that weight per square inch considering that the 420lbs or so will ONLY be concentrated into 2 small contact patches. When they give a load rating for things like minivans, they consider that the load will be evenly distributed, which this isn't. For those trips where you want to bring the bike, I'd suggest just renting a U-Haul for the weekend or whatever.

No offense, but IMO you tied it down wrong. You ALWAYS want to tie it from the highest solid point on the bike, to the lowest solid point on the trailer. So, you should have used a Canyon Dancer (or at least soft straps on the bottom triple clamp) to tie to the ring anchors in the far front corners of the trailer instead of the ones right next to the wheel. This makes it MUCH more stable left-to-right. And since you have a built-in wheel chock in the front, the bike can't move forward, but it CAN move backwards. So, the rear tiedowns should have been anchored to those low ring anchors slightly ahead of the rear wheel, not to the anchors behind. What you want, is if any of the straps fail, that the other straps are still always pulling the bike down and FORWARD into the chock. For instance, if your front strap had failed, the rear straps (under tension) would have pulled the bike backwards, OUT of the wheel chock, and it would have fallen over or, if it was in neutral (why I ALWAYS put mine in gear), pulled it OUT of the trailer to drag behind. I had a friend who had a strap fail, and his racebike DID fall out just like that and get dragged for a distance before he realized his bike wasn't in the trailer anymore! Luckily the damage wasn't too bad since it was kinda beat up and had race fairings (now even MORE roadrashed up) and all kinds of sliders and case protectors. With the way I specified, even if a strap had failed, the other straps are still all pulling the bike DOWN and INTO the wheel chock. I usually have 2 straps per side up front (because those are the more critical straps), and one strap per side in back. In general, you want the anchor points as low as as far apart as you can get them. Think about how much more stable your stance is if your feet are wider apart than if they were side-by-side. Make sense?

Glad you got your beautiful new ride home ok, and hope you have many happy and safe miles and years on her!

Hey I did use the soft straps at the bottom of the triple clamp… and anchored it too the point where the wheel is held in place. But I do agree with you regarding the rear wheel tie downs..thank you for giving that explanation this will help me for future hauling for sure. I’m glad too I reached home safe without an issue. 😂

Regarding not to haul the bike in a mini- Van.. now I understand your concerns but would 400 lbs really break the floor of the car? Up until few years go the car was carrying around 1000lbs of just passenger weight now I’m sure it’s more then that. The car fits 8 passenger. Trust me I wouldn’t have gone for this route had I got other options..maybe I’ll get thefloor checked out for rust and stuff to be sure it’s solid before I start hauling the bike. Also I’ll try to use u-haul.. whenever I can just seems to be the safer bet. Cheers!

 

[ZZZ]

Hey I did use the soft straps at the bottom of the triple clamp… and anchored it too the point where the wheel is held in place. But I do agree with you regarding the rear wheel tie downs..thank you for giving that explanation this will help me for future hauling for sure. I’m glad too I reached home safe without an issue. 😂

Regarding not to haul the bike in a mini- Van.. now I understand your concerns but would 400 lbs really break the floor of the car? Up until few years go the car was carrying around 1000lbs of just passenger weight now I’m sure it’s more then that. The car fits 8 passenger. Trust me I wouldn’t have gone for this route had I got other options..maybe I’ll get thefloor checked out for rust and stuff to be sure it’s solid before I start hauling the bike. Also I’ll try to use u-haul.. whenever I can just seems to be the safer bet. Cheers!

The wider you can get the front (or rear) tiedowns spaced, the better. Looks like they had rings in the far front corner, unless the straps would have rubbed on the fairing. It's just best from a leverage standpoint to tie it as high as you can on the bike, to as low as you can on the trailer.

Yeah, my buddy will NEVER live down how he was dragging his R1 down the road before he noticed it. Doh!

It's not a matter of weight, it's a matter of PSI, that 400lbs is concentrated in a pretty small area. It's most likely ok, but, I'm also concerned you'll be trying to wrestle it into or out of such a tight spot, and have the bike fall on you. My buddy was helping a friend load a racebike and it fell on him, breaking a couple ribs. I just think renting a truck and trailer will be safer and easier for you. Hell, the trailer's are only like $20/day, maybe another $40 for the truck to pull it. OR, U-Haul has bigger full-sized vans, or even a box truck with a lift on the back.

As for the Ohio thing, yeah, I'd check for rust too! I spent 12 miserable years in the Cleveland area, rust city! I'm so glad to be outta "The FILTHY Streets of Cleveland" LOL...

Glad you both made it home safe, and continue to be safe in the future!