2. Feed the wiring harness into the tail section from the left hand side of the bike. The large orange connector is what the module will connect to, and this is what you want in the tail section, along with the accessory connectors next to it.

3. In order to make room to feed the rest of the wiring harness, loosen the four bolts of the seat bracket which is on the rear subframe.

4. Run the harness under the seat bracket, you can see the Rapidbike Evo harness highlighted in red in the picture below, to give you an idea on how to route it.

 

5. Locate the four lower injectors. Injector #1 will be the left most injector and it continue in numerical order.

Injector #1

Injector #2

Injector #3

Injector #4

6. Connect the Rapidbike Evo harness inline to each injector as numbered on the harness.

 

7. Locate the four upper injectors. Injector #5 will be the left most injector and it continue in numerical order.

Injector #5

Injector #6

Injector #7

Injector #8

8. Connect the Rapidbike Evo harness inline to each injector as numbered on the harness.

9. Locate the 2-pin black connectors for the crankshaft sensor and connect the Rapidbike connectors in-line with the stock connectors.

 

10. Locate the grey, 6-pin connector for the TPS sensor, and identify the wire which is connected to the number 2 pin of the connector. Using the posi-tap connector provided, connect the green wire from the Rapidbike EVO harness to the wire coming out of the number 2 pin of the TPS connector.

 

10. Locate the grey, 6-pin connector for the TPS sensor, and identify the wire which is connected to the number 2 pin of the connector. Using the posi-tap connector provided, connect the green wire from the Rapidbike EVO harness to the wire coming out of the number 2 pin of the TPS connector.

Right on, Manny!!!
Thanks for edumacating/learning me about a neat little component I never knew existed.
This makes me curious why people have commented about soldering while installing Rapidbike, if that neat little jewel is included in the kit?
:smile2:

 

11. Locate the 4-pin black connectors for the O2 sensor on the left side of the bike and connect the Rapidbike connectors in-line with the stock connectors. Use zipties to neatly secure the connectors together as shown in the second picture below.

12. Locate the 4-pin black connectors for the O2 sensor on the right side of the bike and connect the Rapidbike connectors in-line with the stock connectors. Use zipties to neatly secure the connectors together as shown in the second picture below.

13. Locate the 3-pin black connectors for the gear position sensor and connect the Rapidbike connectors in-line with the stock connectors.

14. Double check all the connectors that was just installed in the steps above to make sure everything is connected securely. Start tidying up the Rapidbike Evo wiring harness to make sure the gas tank will slide into place without pinching any wires and/or hitting any of the connectors. Use zip ties to secure the harness at necessary places. In this case, we used secured the upper injector harness at two locations, and the main Rapidbike Evo harness on the left side near the frame.

15. Connect back the two connectors and the fuel line back underneath the tank, and mount the tank into place. Do not force the tank into place if it is hitting any of the connectors or wires, just try to tuck away the wires or connectors and try again. Once the tank is in place, do not forget to reattach the two breather wires located at the front top sides of the gas tank.

 

16. Connect the black wire from the Rapidbike Evo wiring harness to the negative terminal of your battery.

17. Lastly, connect the large connector from the Rapidbike Evo wiring harness located under the rear seat to the Rapidbike Evo module. We tucked away the accessory connectors right under the tool kit spot, and used zip ties to secure the Rapidbike Evo module so that it isn't freely moving around under the seat while riding.

If you've followed all the steps correctly, your bike should now start and the atuo-adaptive feature will start to immediately make requiref adjustments to the tune of your bike.

Once you've verified that the bike starts, re-isntall the side fairings, riders seat, rear seat, tank cover, tank side panels.

:nerd:

 

16. Connect the black wire from the Rapidbike Evo wiring harness to the negative terminal of your battery.

If you've followed all the steps correctly, your bike should now start and the atuo-adaptive feature will start to immediately make requiref adjustments to the tune of your bike.

Once you've verified that the bike starts, re-isntall the side fairings, riders seat, rear seat, tank cover, tank side panels.

:nerd:

If read this correctly this setup does not require a dyno run to tune the software and create a custom map? The software self-tunes?

 

Very nice write up and pictures, thank you.

 

Excellent write up,thank you as well.
What was the time required to do this?

Thanks!

 

I did mine in a couple hours.

 

Did I miss a mention of blocking off the air injection system to ensure accurate o2 reading? Pretty sure that is required, and is easy to do with a plug and cap on right side of tank. @Bobby Johnny what did you do?

 

Yes, I blocked those off. Block offs took about 30 minutes to do.

 

is blocking off the Pair system a must when doing the rapid evo?? or can the rapid tune with the pair system still working??

 

It is not a must, but it would be recommended.

 

Could you leave them on but add a plus 2 to the lamdas reading to compensate?

I was under the impression the pair was mainly for off throttle stuff or very low openings so above 40 or 50 percent throttle it's closed and doesn't affect anything

 

Yes, pair mainly works in off throttle as you say.

Here is a good read > Pair Valve

 

If you have stock cat there will still be popping, even without there is a bit

 

So just to confirm, if I'm going to take the time to do this install, might as well have the PAIR block-offs handy and do at the same time, correct? Even if I'm leaving the stock O2 sensors on? Should I just do the tri-fecta and rapidbike, pair block and wideband all at the same time?

Ahhh, sorry for the confusion and I appreciate the help (even though I don't have ordered the parts yet).

 

Since you'll have the tank and covers off, might as well block off the PAIR valves instead of having to go back in later—not that it takes a lot of time to do, but...

 

Power commander auto tune does not tune as the bike is running. Must accept changes in the software between rides. Rapid bike compares current state to the map and adjusts the custom map as the bike is running to match the base map. Wideband allows specific AFR to be set, narrowband uses three states only. Rich, lean, and optimum.

 

Thanks heaps for the guide just installed one on my 2013. Piece of cake. Hardest bit was getting fuel tank back on. Had to have 2 tries at tidying up the cables to make it fit. After a quick ride I’m very happy with it.

 

You are welcome. The cables are indeed the trickiest part, however that is not even that hard, one or two tries and if you follow the instructions with staying neat and tidy from the beginning you should be through it in a breeze. :nerd:

 

Just for update.

Pair system does mess with readings. The Dyno fella showed me with part throttle eg 40mph, 60 80. And it can't set very well over the air.

My thoughts are it constantly bleeds in air on everything but full throttle.

Basically block it.

 

Thanks for the guide. Just ordered the Rapidbike Race & And Wideband setup from you today.
Got it installed. Was a major PITA getting the wiring tucked out of the way and looking "factory". I think it took me several hours of zip-tieing and trying different routes to avoid the tank rubbing against anything else.

 

Installed my Rapid Bike today after the full Arrow Evo Comp GP exhaust yesterday. This step-by-step is spot on! Great write-up. Got it all done in about 1.5 hours. Thanks for the pictures and guide!