Correct resistance, no errors on dash or fast blink rate?

Looks good!

 

Looks great AZ installed mine about a week or so ago happy to get rid of that stock "wheelie bar" Lol. I used OEM BMW CONNECTOR # 83300413584 so that I could plug straight into existing quick disconnect on bikes main harness. It threw a fault light do to LED's so I had the dealer turn off the lamp error function which took about 15min.

 

It threw a fault light do to LED's so I had the dealer turn off the lamp error function which took about 15min.

In part maybe, but Hotbodies should have finished their design to the 100% mark and put the right resistance in. The undertail does look nice but for the price I should not have to walk my arse into the dealer to have them turn something off because Hotbodies didn't finish what they started. I can see this happening for LEDs that are general use since they weren't designed to fit with the BMW's CAN-BUS but this is designed only for the S1...

Sorry rant over...

Like I said, the undertail looks nice for sure... just lacks in the function dept.

 

Sounds like your main hang up would be mine too.... Shouldn't have to pay the dealer so that the errors don't pop up on the dash and cover up my operating temp readout.

Agree on the flash rate - all personal preference and you could be right on the safety factor on the blink rate - hence why some motorcycles have the strobe brake light.

 

It's strange. We had a customer with some aftermarket rear signals--not sure the brand but it caused a rapid flash rate. We disabled the lamp warning and the flash rate went to normal speed.

It's nice to have the lamp error disabled as it allows you to take the bike to the track and run in any mode you want without the error flash covering engine temp.

I believe the only lights it "tests" are the small light in the low beam side--not the H7--, the tail/brake light, and the turn signals but only after they are activated. Kind of lame. Should be low beam, tail/brake light, and maybe turn signals. Their programming with the slick plug installed should have allowed any mode to work error free. Oh well.

 

It's nice to have the lamp error disabled as it allows you to take the bike to the track and run in any mode you want without the error flash covering engine temp.

Very true... that was one thing I liked about the Watsen LEDs... VERY small lens, so no need to remove them to go to the track, just a very small piece of painters tape and you'd be set...

 

CQBRR: That's scary! Better find a new shop come service time lol. jk.
I asked when I had it done if I could do it at home and was told it had
to be done by dealer :-( . a computer programing thing.
You can call my dealer or have your dealer call to find out specifics
Brown Motor Works - 909-397-5147 talk to Eddie in service.
1000rr: Sorry about your rant dude but if that's how you feel then you better
start at the top as BMW LEDS that you buy at the dealership cause
the same problems and the same fix is needed.
I do agree with you that they fell short on the 100% mark as i thought
for the price they could have added the $24.00 BMW connecter already
spliced in as it would have cut the install time down to 5min.

 

Had this Monday off for the President’s Day holiday, so I finally did a little custom mount for the plate. I prefer the plate to be mounted farther back on the tail section than most of the available tail tidy units I have seen. This bracket is from Speed Tactics (www.speedtactics.com) and is actually the part for a 2004-2007 CBR1000RR... which I totaled before the S1kRR, but that's another story.

I had to drill one hole in the tail section just behind the license light. The intended mounting location for the plate on a HotBodies undertail is further forward on the triangulated downward projection, but that requires 2 drill holes... see other thread on tail tidies...

http://www.s1000rrforum.com/forum/b...m/forum/bmw-s1000rr-general-discussion/3987-fender-eliminator-kits-s1krr-9.html


...and like I said, I prefer this location.

 

anyone know what value load resistors are needed to prevent the lamp error?

 

yeah what he said. that would help.

 

Did some research/testing of my own and found that a 10W@10ohm load resistor (from radioshack) prevents the lamp! error from coming on. Wired as if it was a bulb, ground to one end, and 12V power to the other end.

Careful as the load resistor does get warm (dissipating 10watts as if it were the 10watt bulb in the stock turn signals) so don't mount on any plastics.

If anything I would try and see if a 10W@15ohm load resistor would work, just to lower the current being drawn. Radioshack didn't have these so I'll have to search online.