[fast4d]

you roll the dice every time the bike goes down on frame sliders. Had a cracked frame once from a 20mph low side.

cold tire lowsided my S1000rr about 30mph. the r&g held up nicely. went into gravel trap which I think bent the mounting bolt.

I do agree stay away from the no cut sliders. you want sliders closest to the frame as possible

 

[KingEdwardR6]

Do you guys know if anyone makes frames sliders that fit under the fairings like the WSBK team has. I have R&G sliders in mine now but don't like how far they stick out so looking to replace them. I know ilmberger makes the carbon covers for them but don't feel it's really gonna protect anything. But did like the ones I saw on the Golbet S1k

 

[Godzilla]

The GB racing ones are much smaller than the R&G

 

[CVNH]

OP asked whether sliders would be helpful to protect from a fall at the track.

Thinking aloud...

If one has racing fairings, then it's more of a matter of protecting the frame itself since the fairings should be quite cheap to replace, maybe comparable to the price of the sliders themselves. No guarantees you're not scratching the frame main beams when using a slider. The slider should provide some additional protection (provided it breaks off when needed), but one should also consider a frame protector like this

For occasional track days, if you want to just save those expensive original fairings (talk about the replacement cost of an HP4 panel in a few years!), what's the point of cutting a hole through it to fit a slider? Call it preventive damage if you want.

 

[frankrca]

What brand of sliders do you have?

 

[Rra]

I realize this is an older thread but I got Sato Racing sliders and they don't require cutting the plastic but cost a bundle...somewhere in the range of $200.00. Hoping they are strong. I had some cheap shogun on my Busa and it went down at low speed and slid a good ten feet which ground off a !/4 to 1/2 inch and busted up one $250.00 piece of plastic but it saved my Akro carbon fiber can and titanium header plus who knows what else. I'll never be without sliders.

 

[Tanman2]

My thoughts about sliders are a little different. I think sliders are meant to slide and wear down to dissipate energy until the body comes to a rest. In the event that the slider catches on something, or if the impact is too hard, I rather the bolts of my slider bend. If the slider is short and stout and don't give, the force gets transferred to the frame and something in thew frame will break. Its cheaper to replace a slider than a frame.

 

[Jebac]

My thoughts about sliders are a little different. I think sliders are meant to slide and wear down to dissipate energy until the body comes to a rest. In the event that the slider catches on something, or if the impact is too hard, I rather the bolts of my slider bend. If the slider is short and stout and don't give, the force gets transferred to the frame and something in thew frame will break. Its cheaper to replace a slider than a frame.

so which sliders would you recommend with a long bolt?

 

[Tanman2]

so which sliders would you recommend with a long bolt?

I had a set of Puig model R on my SV650 when it took a low side slide during one of my track days. The sliders were longish but not super long. It did a wonderful job and took all the damage. The puck grounded off and the main bolt bent. My bike did sustain damage to the handle bar and foot peg assembly which made contact beyond what the sliders could cover, but the frame was virtually unscratched. I was very amazed actually.

I have since then replaced the sliders with woodcrafts. These are even longer and the slide puck is super slippery. The main bolt seemed to be made of a high yield metal. I hope to not test these, but I think they will do a great job.

 

[Marky 70]

I would just go with GB engine covers only on a street machine.Any slide will more than likely catch slider on something on side of road and rip any slider off destroying engine threads where they bolt on or worse crack or rip off piece of frame.

 

[whisper]

Anyone have experience/opinions on the Gilles sliders? I think they're no-cut, but they aren't very long....and Gilles seems to make some quality rear sets and such.

 

[FlynDutchman]

Cut a hole in the right fairing and mount up Woodcraft sliders. They are lower profile and sit closer to the body (less chance of catching and flipping the bike in a slide), they are solid centered so they can withstand a longer slide without grinding down, they bolt directly to the motor mount (the strongest point), they are fairly inexpensive, made in the USA, all the slider pieces are able to be ordered individually for replacement and if you do crash they can be changed out easily because the securing bolt goes through the side of the puck not through the center so the removal bolt never gets damaged! Is that enough info? Lol. It's the only slider I will trust and use.

 

[FlynDutchman]

Anyone have experience/opinions on the Gilles sliders? I think they're no-cut, but they aren't very long....and Gilles seems to make some quality rear sets and such.

No but I have never seen a no cut slider hold up well when asked to do their job. They usually damage the bodywork, break off at the frame or worse yet break the frame.

 

[Jebac]

Instead of starting off my own thread, I used the magical search button. Reading into this I'm still not leaning towards cut or no cut.

I already got GB case savers and axle sliders. However, I want to do a track day in my street bike.

Doing the jump to track fairing would be a significant hit to my wallet, so that option is not possible ATM. Unless I get addicted then I would definitely pick up a set.

Has anyone seen frame sliders stand up to the track?
I'm thinking woodcraft will do the job on the track and street (for me it's more about country roads) don't mind cutting the fairing for that protection.
Help me make a decision today



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[sro]

Instead of starting off my own thread, I used the magical search button. Reading into this I'm still not leaning towards cut or no cut.

I already got GB case savers and axle sliders. However, I want to do a track day in my street bike.

Doing the jump to track fairing would be a significant hit to my wallet, so that option is not possible ATM. Unless I get addicted then I would definitely pick up a set.

Has anyone seen frame sliders stand up to the track?
I'm thinking woodcraft will do the job on the track and street (for me it's more about country roads) don't mind cutting the fairing for that protection.
Help me make a decision today



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I have seen some work while others fail. It just depends on type of sliders and how the bike falls/slides. I didn't mind spending ~$100 for some in case I drop my bike. That is a fraction of how much it cost to replace one fairing.

A friend recently dropped his bike before he could install sliders. I know the sliders would have saved him $700.



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[Special Ed]

Before I did the Woodcraft sliders I was super intimidated to cut them in. Once I made the cut and installed them it is no big deal and they are super clean looking. Totally happy with the decision and would do it again in a heart beat. The final decision is yours but I think the consensus is for the protection you cant beat direct bolt in. The paranoia of cutting the faring is overrated in my opinion.

Even after seeing mine and how clean the cut looks, my coworker is so intimidated he wants me to do the cut on his bike. He does not even want to watch me do it.

 

[relliK]

Before I did the Woodcraft sliders I was super intimidated to cut them in. Once I made the cut and installed them it is no big deal and they are super clean looking. Totally happy with the decision and would do it again in a heart beat. The final decision is yours but I think the consensus is for the protection you cant beat direct bolt in. The paranoia of cutting the faring is overrated in my opinion.

Even after seeing mine and how clean the cut looks, my coworker is so intimidated he wants me to do the cut on his bike. He does not even want to watch me do it.

Would you mind posting a picture of your fairing with the slider installed?

 

[WAfatboy]

This was my bike with GB Race sliders (shorter than Road) mounted using the T-Rex no-cut kit. Survived a 80kph low slide on track, no flipping but because the race sliders are shorter the lower fairing was damaged. The Pulse cover bore the brunt of the damage with the frame slider. The frame/bars/levers/tank/tail & exhaust were fine. I know there are local racers that have no frame slider, they say that's what track fairings are for

 

[Jebac]

This was my bike with GB Race sliders (shorter than Road) mounted using the T-Rex no-cut kit. Survived a 80kph low slide on track, no flipping but because the race sliders are shorter the lower fairing was damaged. The Pulse cover bore the brunt of the damage with the frame slider. The frame/bars/levers/tank/tail & exhaust were fine. I know there are local racers that have no frame slider, they say that's what track fairings are for

Looks like your hp brake pedal is bent.
Local racers I understand track fairing. Not at that level yet.



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[WAfatboy]

Looks like your hp brake pedal is bent.
Local racers I understand track fairing. Not at that level yet.



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Actually it was the rearset footpeg was replaced, forgot as it was a while ago. The fairing was a $50 repair job.

Just thought it might be interesting to see some actual damage. I agree with the earlier post that it can go either way depending on how the bike slides but having the right gear will help. The other thing that's different about the setup is as per my earlier post the GB slider uses a T-Rex mount to make it no-cut.