Case savers. I hope you never use them.

 

I hope not either lol. Which ones do you recommend?

 

Yosh fender eliminator...get rid of that awful tail. Then dump the stock muffler and replace it with a good slip on. Might also consider a tall tinted OEM windscreen (very nice for reducing torso blast).

 

I also like levers as a mod. As for protection, it's a personal choice. Some popular brands include:

Rizoma
Woodcraft
R&G
GB Racing

We have many good vendors who carry these brands.

 

Start with protective and functional mods depending on your budget.

Rearsets, levers, case saver, frame/axle sliders.

Then get to cosmetic and performance mods.

 

exactly the route I went with mine.

 

After case savers and frame sliders (I used Rizoma parts for both) I did a MotoDynamic undertail kit and DMP integrated tail light with Greggs Custom flush mount turn signals... I just had to clean up the look of the bike. Never been a fan of stock undertails and I hate the Christmas bulbs that BMW uses for turn signals here in the states...

 

So what's the advantages of having rearsets. I see people put them on all them time but how is it different from stock besides some styling and color? I've never had them so that's why I ask.

 

More grip and adjustability.

 

rearsets are not for styling nor color. For some riders OEM ones are ok, just pegs can be replaced with more grippy ones.
For most people OEM rearsets are not in correct position to offer riders with ideal riding position. If you don't ride on the track, ride long trips or aggressively on the twisties don't worry about rearsets.

 

+1 on protective mods first. Be aware that on both my S1000RRs (2011 and 2015), putting in the case savers, which requires replacing a few of the case bolts with the provided ones, resulted in my bike leaking oil (very slightly) through the cases. Like everything else on these bikes, the case covers and gaskets seem to be very susceptible to futzing with them.

Regarding rearsets, if you need better comfort than factory due to your size/shape, then go for them as they are adjustable. Also, grip. I use Attack Performance and boy, are they grippy. And sharp. However, you will also need boots with replaceable soles, or you will be having to buy new boots when your rearsets chew through the soles. So unless you really need grip, stay with factory.

Unless you are an electrical engineer, skip the tail tidy. A friend gave me a Yoshi tail tidy that looks beautiful but I KNOW I will screw something up if I try to do all the cutting and splicing required. So there it is.

I also changed the ugly-ass stock brake and clutch levers as soon as I could.

Wait before you toss the stock exhaust can; it gets louder and throatier with age. If you still don't like the sound, then change it. So many threads on which one to choose. You can justify the expense by the weight savings and tell yourself you did good.

I put in a Brembo front brake pump. I don't think I gained that much. Less fade on the track. Maybe. I should have first played around with brake fluids and pads before spending the dough and spending money to have someone bleed it at the ABS pump under the seat... big PITA.

I put in a bubble MRA windscreen. Noticed nothing. Maybe looks better? Not sure anymore.

Went down a tooth in the front sprocket. Well worth it for my shorter tracks/twisty roads.

Luggage: Wunderlich small tank bag and rear seat bag: Awesome.

Invested in a Bursig stand. Love that thing.

SO, if I had to do it all over again:
Musts: Protection and levers. Love my Bursig stand (though it's rusting bad). Love the luggage, especially that front small bag made for the RR.
Maybe: Slip on or full exhaust.
Everything else: Meh.

 

The track.

 

GB Racing savers are nice but pricey. Check Amazon and eBay, there are some good ones out there. Oh.... I'd suggest the Dieci83 Aluminum Radiator and Oil Cooler Guard Cover Protector Grille for BMW S1000RR S1000R XR 2015-2017 Black as well.

 

Yoshi Tail tidy isn't hard to install. Just read up about it beforehand, only one wire to splice, no error codes.
PM me if you have questions on it.

The factory brake and clutch levers seem almost oversized to me, I replaced mine with HP levers as my 2nd mod
They look so much better.

 

Yoshi Tail tidy isn't hard to install. Just read up about it beforehand, only one wire to splice, no error codes.
PM me if you have questions on it.

Thanks; will take another stab when I have some time set aside. It's also important for me to be able to easily unplug/plug the taillights, as I routinely remove the whole tail to put in track plastics, when racing. The factory setup is somewhat easy to unplug, although for the life of me I don't know why the Germans put the little tab at the BOTTOM of the taillight plug assembly, where you cannot easily reach it.

If you are comfortable cutting/splicing and don't have my sausage fingers, it may be "easy" for you, but I am mechanically retarded...

Thanks for the offer!

 

Motodynamic is plug and play.

 

The only wires that need splicing with the Yosh FE is the plate light.

 

AS SRO already mentioned it cant get much easyer than this one comes with a new rear harness and all plug and play,

https://www.motodynamic.com/fender-eliminator-kit-bmw-s1000r-s1000rr-2015-2017.html

 

I'd say leave the bike alone and go do a couple of CSS days with their bikes and learn from them.

 

That's what I'm doing, @ Laguna Seca Raceway.
:grin2:

 

Frame sliders, radiator guard and oil cooler guard are always first thing I buy.

 

Definitely get rid of the stock tail. I first ordered a DMP, but just didn't really like it, so I went with a Yoshi and pretty happy with it. LED turn signals are also a good upgrade.

 

My first mods:

Radiator and Oil Guard - Evotech (no zip ties needed)
Vinyl Protection - XPEL Ultimate
Frame Sliders - Woodcraft

I haven't even ridden my S1000RR yet haha, still waiting for the guards to come in the mail. I'll feel at ease knowing it has all the protection from the very beginning.

 

You have a S1KRR and you haven`t ridden it? Wheel that thing out of the garage and use it man.......

 

Awesome! Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. Over the weekend I rigged a DIY license plate bracket that looks pretty good in my opinion. I used some Home Depot hardware to mount the license plate and bought 2 flexible 12 inch LED strips off eBay and stuck them to the rail where the foot pegs are mounted. I did not want to cut and splice the stock wire harness so I just used "tap splicers" and they work great so far. Here's a few pics if I can get them to load right.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

1st mod, stage 4 WSBK engine upgrade (only $30K) and here's the link for that.

https://alphasbk.com/products/alpha-stage-4-wsbk-race-engine-bmw-s1000-rr-2010-2014-2015

2nd mod, roto box or bst carbon rims. Give or take for both wheels $4K ish.

You'll pump 220 to the wheel easy.

All kidding aside, I'd say case savers and brembo RCS 19 for the front brakes. Drastically better than stock master cylinder

 

Well Mr. Muscle, you have a lot more patience than I have. Yikes..... let us know when those parts arrive.

Wow, wow I wouldn`t wait, but that`s just me. Cheers!!!!

 

Graves makes a replacement for that huge back plate holder that (while still expensive for what it is, it's around $50 - way less than other stuff), it fits perfectly and keeps all the stock lights, including the plate light - and you don't have to cut any wires. I think it fits everything 15-17, not sure before that, could be it fits all years.

I personally "tested" frame sliders on the track and they actually did a decent job, but obviously so much depends on how you crash, which I hope you never do. They were also Graves, but for a Yamaha. Also good if your stuff happens to fall over b/c of some stupid thing (I've done that as well, so basically tested them twice). After the big crash I was able to just replace the puck, the bolt holding it all in place was good.

Depending on what you do, for tracks it's usually better to have them not as long so your bike won't catch on it and flip, on the street, and I am assuming sane speeds here, longer ones should be better.

 

Levers
Plate eliminator
Slip on pipe