BMW S1000RR Forum banner
2381 - 2395 of 2395 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
995 Posts
  • Removed the race fiberglass bodywork and solo tail after the last track day
  • Removed the factory steering damper and replaced it with the Ohlins SD033 off my 2010. Yes, the SD033 and SD038 will fit on the 2015+; the only difference is a mounting bolt.
  • Removed factory triple tree hardware and replaced it with Pro Ti titanium pre-drilled bolts
  • Downloaded a bunch of new tweaks onto the Race Calibration Kit 3. I look forward to more testing, and tuning.
Next I looked through my spares to find turn signal wiring and other stuff removed, to pursue converting the bike back to the street until next season. I have a full set of street bodywork and headlights. I have to swap the Pirelli slicks for some Dunlop Q3s I had laying around. Also need to clean the chain and forged wheels.
-
 
  • Like
Reactions: A B

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
815 Posts
What haven't i done at this point lol. I started a thread at 10 year anniversary with s1k where i'm going into all the mods as they happened in more details, but here's a high level list for this thread.
  • airbrush flames
  • V1 custom mount
  • attack rearsets
  • throttlemeister
  • sena
  • flir
  • sliders
  • metal chain guard
  • 520 chain/sprockets
  • akra full Ti exhaust
  • tune
  • CF wheels
  • brembo mono front calipers, floating rotors, master cylinder
  • earthx battery
  • brakelines
  • CF plastics
  • zero gravity shield
  • head, rods, pistons, cams, springs, STM clutch, injectors, radiator
  • k&n filter
  • next build new rods, pistons, valves, springs, cams
  • race seat
  • vinyl strips along bottom
  • lightweight rear rotor
  • View attachment 213046
Nice set of upgrades. Did you notice braking feel improvements with the floating front rotors?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
995 Posts
The most change in feel comes from different brake pads. The second most impactful is from changing the master cylinder to a Brembo or Accossato, and third from changing calipers. Rotors don't often cause that much of a different in braking power or feel.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,268 Posts
Looked at it with longing since I probably still shouldn't ride it while my arm heals... :(
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,212 Posts
  • Removed the race fiberglass bodywork and solo tail after the last track day
  • Removed the factory steering damper and replaced it with the Ohlins SD033 off my 2010. Yes, the SD033 and SD038 will fit on the 2015+; the only difference is a mounting bolt.
  • Removed factory triple tree hardware and replaced it with Pro Ti titanium pre-drilled bolts
  • Downloaded a bunch of new tweaks onto the Race Calibration Kit 3. I look forward to more testing, and tuning.
Next I looked through my spares to find turn signal wiring and other stuff removed, to pursue converting the bike back to the street until next season. I have a full set of street bodywork and headlights. I have to swap the Pirelli slicks for some Dunlop Q3s I had laying around. Also need to clean the chain and forged wheels.
-
were those the only Ti fasteners you replaced, or have you done others already? no concerns with those as far as strength of the lighter weight mat'l?

Nice set of upgrades. Did you notice braking feel improvements with the floating front rotors?
hard for me to tell what (calipers, rotors, lines, cylinder) made the difference, but i will say i noticed two major improvements. The feel of the brake lever is so much better, responsive than stock.

The other big improvement was only really noticed in the mountains. Before the upgrades, on the way down the mountain, i noticed a combination of fade and firmness in the lever. One of these times was right after having the system bled by the local dealer to try to address the firmness. After the upgrades, i never had issue again, even after abuse in the mountains. i honestly like the feel of the brakes on this bike just a little better than the '19 aprilia factory i have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
995 Posts
@verrucktaxe - Titanium fasteners that are pre-drilled I can safety wire. I have seen some bolts come loose while on the race track, so I prefer that everything possible be safety-wired (not just fluid-retaining items). For the bolts that are aluminum, the weight savings is negligible.

I have already replaced my caliper bolts with pre-drilled Titanium and those are big enough to save some weight but it isn't much. I also have Ti hardware on the rear axle, and in other parts. Each bolt isn't much, but when you go over the whole bike for weight reduction, substantial reductions can be found.
 
  • Like
Reactions: verrucktaxe

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,212 Posts
@verrucktaxe - Titanium fasteners that are pre-drilled I can safety wire. I have seen some bolts come loose while on the race track, so I prefer that everything possible be safety-wired (not just fluid-retaining items). For the bolts that are aluminum, the weight savings is negligible.

I have already replaced my caliper bolts with pre-drilled Titanium and those are big enough to save some weight but it isn't much. I also have Ti hardware on the rear axle, and in other parts. Each bolt isn't much, but when you go over the whole bike for weight reduction, substantial reductions can be found.
hey man, missed this when you posted it, but thanks for the input!
 
2381 - 2395 of 2395 Posts
Top