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I got mine on the 23rd and have been out on it twice, now clocked up 300kms and scrubbed off 90% of the tyre saver.
Finding it a bit slippery inside knees even after using grip on tank and lower fairing, think it’s the mid section / frame that needs stickying up…
All in impressed with the bottom range, while we can’t go >7k it was more than enough make a long road fully of twisties a lot of fun.
The race screen I installed (ex Uk off eBay) works well. Cant say I’m impressed with the rear sets. Annoying trying to get under the gear shifter so am either going to go for Bonamici, Vortex or Gilles if anyone has some feedback on those.
I have the M Rearsets, which IMO, look better than the Gilles (even though they are also made by Gilles)
They have a decent knurl on them and are quite grippy.
I use TechSpec Snake Skin tank grips, no dramas so far. I prefer them over Stomp grip.
 

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I've been keeping an eye on inventory for 2022s in So Cal...not much to keep an eye on lately. Usually winters are a good time to buy.
 

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I got mine on the 23rd and have been out on it twice, now clocked up 300kms and scrubbed off 90% of the tyre saver.
Finding it a bit slippery inside knees even after using grip on tank and lower fairing, think it’s the mid section / frame that needs stickying up…
All in impressed with the bottom range, while we can’t go >7k it was more than enough make a long road fully of twisties a lot of fun.
The race screen I installed (ex Uk off eBay) works well. Cant say I’m impressed with the rear sets. Annoying trying to get under the gear shifter so am either going to go for Bonamici, Vortex or Gilles if anyone has some feedback on those.
I too have just hit 300kms and have now adjusted the shift light from 7k to 9k.
Totally agree with the bottom end. Just been trying to focus on the tight twisty stuff which has been an absolute blast to scrub in the tyres and build confidence.
The front brake feels amazing. I like the bite and response when squeezed. A great confidence booster.
The optional dash configurations are such a great idea as well. Loving that 2nd option so far.

I find the bars to be a bit 'vibey' at times which results in some fatigue in the hands and vibration in the mirrors. The cruise control is a great remedy for the hands though. I am also struggling a little bit with setting the right rpm for the friction point during 1st gear take offs as I have stalled it a few times which surprised me. I'm pretty confident though that given more practice (applying more rpm) this will soon be long forgotten.

Can't wait to knock off some more k's on this beast! 'Living the dream'!
 

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Yeah you
I too have just hit 300kms and have now adjusted the shift light from 7k to 9k.
Totally agree with the bottom end. Just been trying to focus on the tight twisty stuff which has been an absolute blast to scrub in the tyres and build confidence.
The front brake feels amazing. I like the bite and response when squeezed. A great confidence booster.
The optional dash configurations are such a great idea as well. Loving that 2nd option so far.

I find the bars to be a bit 'vibey' at times which results in some fatigue in the hands and vibration in the mirrors. The cruise control is a great remedy for the hands though. I am also struggling a little bit with setting the right rpm for the friction point during 1st gear take offs as I have stalled it a few times which surprised me. I'm pretty confident though that given more practice (applying more rpm) this will soon be long forgotten.

Can't wait to knock off some more k's on this beast! 'Living the dream'!
Yeah, you’re right about the vibration through the bars, I was thinking the same thing. I’ve pretty much given up trying to look at the mirrors.
At some point I’m going to either replace the bars with clip ons and buy the blanking plates for the stock triple clamp or replace both the triple clamp and the bars. From what Ive read on here, the bars are too strong and transfer accident damage to the forks bending them. That might also be why they’re so vibey.
Ive also been on watch for fork seal leakage (mentioned on the forum) and can see a little road dust collected in oil on the fork lowers so will watch that one.
A bunch of guys at my local track have told me that engine “wear in” should be focused on throttle on and throttle off, with as little held throttle driving as possible. Apparently it beds the rings in correctly rather than glassing them off and polishing the bores. I love tech talk but as Ive never actually fully pulled down an engine I couldn’t say with certainty it’s true so watch that space too…
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Since I got the bike a couple of weeks ago, just before Christmas, I've made some modifications.
- BMW radiator/cooler guard - Installation was was easy, but disassembling the upper/lower fairings was necessary.
- spray-painted the lower fairings with white color. I couldn't find the exact BMW white :(
- techspec knee pads
- rear seat cowl

I feel that the M-seat is too hard for my butt. If I feel the same after several thousand miles, I may have to replace it with a softer one.

Wheel Land vehicle Tire Vehicle Fuel tank
 

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FWIW and maybe this is common knowledge now. I was at the dealership the other day for a tire swap and was looking at the RR M package they had on the floor. I noticed it had the forged aluminum wheels instead of the carbon fiber. Talked to the salesman I have my order through and was told that they no longer come with CF wheels, you have to specify that in the order. Had to change the order to a bike that wasn't built yet in order to add the CF wheels at an additional $1500 USD. Posting as a PSA, hopefully it doesn't start an Aluminum vs CF debate. I wanted CF for the track. If it were solely a street bike I'd probably take the discount and keep the aluminum wheels it comes with.
 

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FWIW and maybe this is common knowledge now. I was at the dealership the other day for a tire swap and was looking at the RR M package they had on the floor. I noticed it had the forged aluminum wheels instead of the carbon fiber. Talked to the salesman I have my order through and was told that they no longer come with CF wheels, you have to specify that in the order. Had to change the order to a bike that wasn't built yet in order to add the CF wheels at an additional $1500 USD. Posting as a PSA, hopefully it doesn't start an Aluminum vs CF debate. I wanted CF for the track. If it were solely a street bike I'd probably take the discount and keep the aluminum wheels it comes with.
That’s not ideal, I had a slightly similar experience, the dealership guys I bought mine off new practically nothing about the build of the bike. I had to show them how to access pro modes and explain what wheelie control does..
I bought mine bike for track too but actually optioned for the Ali’s rather than CF because with all the tyre changes apparently they get damaged quite quickly. While the CF is lighter and nicer, unless you own your own tyre machine and swap tyres with the care and attention as you do your bike, you’re left to the to tyre guys who can be a little hammer fisted at times. I’ve often walked away fuming after I see yet another scratch on my rims, but hey, sitting around a track all weekend isn’t pleasant either I suppose.
 

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Makes sense on the trackside tire changes. I have a local shop I trust to put tires on before I go to the track. I don't like wrenching at the track and don't do enough track days to need trackside tire services.
 

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Makes sense on the trackside tire changes. I have a local shop I trust to put tires on before I go to the track. I don't like wrenching at the track and don't do enough track days to need trackside tire services.
They’re definitely not cheap buying second wheels for wets and intermediates! What pressures do you run?
 

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Makes sense on the trackside tire changes. I have a local shop I trust to put tires on before I go to the track. I don't like wrenching at the track and don't do enough track days to need trackside tire services.
I don't want to highjack the thread. Track Pirelli's SC1 F&R off the warmers 36F, 27R. Street I follow the manual.
 

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FWIW and maybe this is common knowledge now. I was at the dealership the other day for a tire swap and was looking at the RR M package they had on the floor. I noticed it had the forged aluminum wheels instead of the carbon fiber. Talked to the salesman I have my order through and was told that they no longer come with CF wheels, you have to specify that in the order. Had to change the order to a bike that wasn't built yet in order to add the CF wheels at an additional $1500 USD. Posting as a PSA, hopefully it doesn't start an Aluminum vs CF debate. I wanted CF for the track. If it were solely a street bike I'd probably take the discount and keep the aluminum wheels it comes with.
I have a quote for the M Package and it states:
1. Carbon Wheels
2. Pro Drive Mode
3. M Seat
4. M Battery

Hard to believe you have to specify the wheel to be carbon??
 

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Thunderhill, do you use this track reflected in your handle? I do as I'm only 1.25hr. away and a very sweet track. If so where do you live?
 

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Yeah you


Yeah, you’re right about the vibration through the bars, I was thinking the same thing. I’ve pretty much given up trying to look at the mirrors.
At some point I’m going to either replace the bars with clip ons and buy the blanking plates for the stock triple clamp or replace both the triple clamp and the bars. From what Ive read on here, the bars are too strong and transfer accident damage to the forks bending them. That might also be why they’re so vibey.
Ive also been on watch for fork seal leakage (mentioned on the forum) and can see a little road dust collected in oil on the fork lowers so will watch that one.
A bunch of guys at my local track have told me that engine “wear in” should be focused on throttle on and throttle off, with as little held throttle driving as possible. Apparently it beds the rings in correctly rather than glassing them off and polishing the bores. I love tech talk but as Ive never actually fully pulled down an engine I couldn’t say with certainty it’s true so watch that space too…
This thread points to a solution on the vibrations in the K67. Seems someone else had even noticed a difference with the TWM brand.

 

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Hello,

I am waiting for my S1000RR, which is supposed to be somewhere in the Atlantic.
Happy to find this forum!
Is it supposed to get rid of all the cold start issues, the no power without BrenTune flash between 6-7000rpm, is it going to stop shutting of under 2000rpm, will it sound like a race bike and get more than 33 miles on a full tank? Or exactly the same making me want a 2009-2014?
 
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