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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm making this post because I bought the Akrapovic Titanium full system for my K67. I've always went with stainless steel on other bikes, but decided to switch it up with my new toy. With that said, I've searched all over the web for advice from "hands on professionals/enthusiasts" on what to do in order to achieve a near perfect "burnt blue" look. I've seen full system's that look great ( Brentuning k67 looks amazing ) and I've seen other's (local guy) that didn't look very good when it was in the "blue/purple" stage.

So I ask, what process should I use PRE INSTALL? I've herd rubbing alcohol first, dry and then WD40 coat it. Install do it over again just incase you've gotten it dirty during installation drive away let heat do the rest. Seems easy enough but others online have "polished" their exhaust(titanium) and after install coated with WD40 an drove off let heat do the rest. So before I follow one of these processes and there is no turning back, I want to insure I get the look I want. Hate to waste $2400 USD haha.


I have the direction's in the box, BUT I've dropped the full exhaust at my buddies shop waiting for insulation upon recieving my bike back from dealership(cracked rear carbon wheel). I'm picking it back up Monday(exhaust)and will then do the process here at home before installation.
 

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I found the Akro instructions on their website, they say to use WD-40 (do not use aggressive chemical cleaners) on titanium parts before starting the bike for the first time, and to use the same to maintain the system afterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I found the Akro instructions on their website, they say to use WD-40 (do not use aggressive chemical cleaners) on titanium parts before starting the bike for the first time, and to use the same to maintain the system afterwards.
Thankyou, that's what I'm going to use. Figured I'd ask here as there is much more knowledgeable people than myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What are you expecting? I didn't do anything really and mine looks like this

The headers on your's are perfect, I want that same color on midpipe as well. Reading on it, heat will do the job , just wanted more info so that it doesn't go to the "blue" stage and have "blemishes". There is a local guy here with an R1 and his exhaust looks terrible. It's blemished, water marks "burnt into" the "blue" color. He told "yeah it looks like that because I didn't prepare it right, I opened and installed don't do that" naturally I followed with "what should I do" and he told me clean with bleach. Read online NOT TO DO THAT. So figured I'd ask here as I don't want to risk not getting the look I want and wasting $2400 usd(Performance will be fine)
 

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I found the Akro instructions on their website, they say to use WD-40 (do not use aggressive chemical cleaners) on titanium parts before starting the bike for the first time, and to use the same to maintain the system afterwards.
Wow, that's interesting! I'd read in other places to clean exhausts with rubbing alcohol first to get any greasy fingerprints off before heat cycling it the first time, but I would never have expected them to say after that to put a coating of oil ON it afterwards. Maybe to blue it evenly? Interesting...
 

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Like Cycle_Monkey I have never heard of maintaining with WD-40 or otherwise, although it would make sense as the oil could provide a barrier. Unfortunately, at a certain temperature that coating would burn off anyway.

The biggest piece of advice I can offer is to remove ALL contaminants from the surface prior to initial heat cycle, or any subsequent heat cycle. Avoid rain like the plague, and do not wash your bike until fully cooled. Reason being, heat causes bluing as you have already assessed. Any contaminants such as fingerprints, uneven oil application, water spots, mud, etc. act as insulative barrier against oxidization and heat compared to the surrounding metal, causing uneven color changes. Rapid cooling from water will ruin your patina faster than anything.

Tone_757, not to burst your bubble but I am of the belief, given enough heat cycles, all titanium pipes will eventually lose their color. Once the Titanium reaches gray it has run the spectrum of color, the only way to get it back is to remove the oxidization through the use of abrasives. I have a full titanium exhaust on my race bike, and try as I might, they simply get too hot to maintain the pretty blues.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
@Ashes thank you very much for that info. Unfortunately like you've stated the blue color will go away at some point. I've learned that, so with that said I guess it really doesn't matter, buy full carbon belly pan and hide it hahahaha. Great info about washing the bike while hot, I never wash it after a ride anyhow so that wouldn't be an issue but good to know for sure. Once again thank you, and everyone else here for the reply!
 

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Akra has instructions on what to do. I'm not sure, but I think they give you an alcohol swipe to get your fingerprints off before the first heat cycle. I think the key is to keep fingerprints off it. Other than that, WD40 the can (I've never put it on the pipes) is about all you can do besides ride the hell out of it.
 

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Hi,

Simple rules.... once installed carefully clean the exhaust fully BEFORE firing it up, otherwise you'll have permanently burnt in finger prints. Some sort of alcohol is best. Then wipe over with WD40 before firing it up doesn't matter if Titanium or Stainless. I tend to wipe the pipe over with WD40 a few times in the first weeks to 'Season' the metal. The WD40 will make the exhaust turn a nice gold.

The different colours are achieved by varying temperatures. Where there's a restriction in the airflow of the pipe, it will turn a deeper colour. Continued high revs for long periods i.e trackdays/Racing will give the best results. You can cheat by simply using a blow torch on the area you want to make a particular colour. Same goes for titanium bolts. Gently hold them in a vice so the heads are visible and proud of the vice and heat them till you get the desired colour. Then let them cool. You don't want the heads touching the vice otherwise it just acts as a heat sink and they'll never get hot enough.
 
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