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Discussion Starter #1
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/tirox-snapjack-v2?turntosku=405849&turntoEmailType=reviewSolicitation&turntosuid=SUEHaEgXZg&transId=4645495&reviewStartAction=rateIt&starSelected=0&turntoflow=review#turntodone

I have Pit Bull stands that I use for regular maintenance, I bought this strictly for travel because I lube my chain every 400-500 miles, at the end of every day on my long summer rides. This was problematic when riding solo until years ago I figured out a method I used on my '01 Gixxer 1K. Similar idea to mine in that I used a velcro strap to lock the front wheel but instead of the 'Jack I bought a roller wheel cleaning stand from Harbor Freight. It worked great but was a lot bulkier and heavier. I now have a BMW S1000RR I bought new in 2015 and wanted something smaller to carry. I haven't used the 'Jack on the road yet (I'm leaving in 2 days) but have practiced a little in my garage. It's a little wonky to use, and I'd suggest practicing before you leave on a trip and DON'T forget to use the front brake strap. Oh, and be careful NOT to pinch your hand as it looks like it's slice anything in the "scissors" area clean off under load! It took a couple tries, and adjustments in pin location and initial distance out from the tire to get it right. For my 'RR, than meant the second hole up from the bottom, as you want the tire to spin freely but with as little gap as reasonably possible consistently. The bottom hole had the tire sometimes dragging on the ground. On slick surfaces like finished concrete (worse, like my freshly-epoxied garage) the bike just wants to move sideways, so, you have to use the 2 little rubber pads they give you (kickstand and bottom of the 'Jack). That seemed to help, but the pads are too small, and REALLY should be at least twice as big (Tirox, are you listening?). Overall, so far, while not the sturdiest-looking piece, I think it'll work as intended for my purposes on the road, though I'm never going to use it in my garage as I'd say it's only good for quickly lubing the chain. It's a lot smaller and lighter than my old roller method, and comes with a carry pouch, so, I think that's a win. I'll post more from the experiences on the road when I get back next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Chains are internally lubricated. Oiling your chain is only to prevent rust.
Wrong, actually. Chain lube is specifically designed to also be a barrier to metal-to-metal contact between the rollers and the sprocket teeth, which is thousands of PSI. It also keeps the O and X-rings lubed and soft and pliable and helps preven the grease inside from coming out. The thick PJ-1 Blue Label I've used for 30+ years is nasty and sticky, and when it gets on things is a PITA to get off (why it's so good for chains). BUT, I've got 19,956 miles on my OEM chain and sprocket set and I've been lubing the chain religiously every 400-500 miles and they all look to be in great shape. For chains or any other high-impact/loading area, thick, sticky grease works best. Look at the grease they use on large amusement park chains for rollercoasters. Think WD-40 would hold up to that stress? Nope, and it doesn't work for sh!te on your chain either.
 

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I'll post more from the experiences on the road when I get back next week.
I look forward to hearing back how it went! On my recent solo 5000km trip to the east coast and back i had to roll the bike forwards bit by bit to both clean and then lube my chain at the end of the day. It was tedious but got the job done. I had a PackJack - Home tool for my GSXR 750 that worked phenomenally however it's too short to reach the spool on my S1000RR. So after my most recent trip I'm definitely looking for a suitable tool for my longer solo rides or even rides with other people so I don't have to have someone pull my bike towards the left side to raise the wheel and hastily clean/lube the chain before they get tired and have to lower the bike back down.

Hopefully this works out for you and I hope you have a great time on your trip!! Maybe post a pic or two of the tool in action.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I look forward to hearing back how it went! On my recent solo 5000km trip to the east coast and back i had to roll the bike forwards bit by bit to both clean and then lube my chain at the end of the day. It was tedious but got the job done. I had a PackJack - Home tool for my GSXR 750 that worked phenomenally however it's too short to reach the spool on my S1000RR. So after my most recent trip I'm definitely looking for a suitable tool for my longer solo rides or even rides with other people so I don't have to have someone pull my bike towards the left side to raise the wheel and hastily clean/lube the chain before they get tired and have to lower the bike back down.

Hopefully this works out for you and I hope you have a great time on your trip!! Maybe post a pic or two of the tool in action.
'Sup Chris!

Yeah, had to do that once before in the middle of nowhere AZ (Kayenta), but luckily I had a buddy to push the biek forward around the parking lot while I lubed the incredibly dry chain. I'd decided to try some chain wax instead of my usual PJ1 Blue Label, and it didn't last and the chain dried out.

The Snapjack lifts the swingarm by the bottom, so, on the second from the bottom hole for the pivot pin, it works just fine. Dunno how it'd work on the new underslung swingarm.

It should work just fine, and I'll post up after the trip! I should be putting about 1,500-2,000 miles on by the time I get home.
 

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Chain lube is specifically designed to also be a barrier to metal-to-metal contact between the rollers and the sprocket teeth, which is thousands of PSI.
Exactly correct.

By cleaning and lubricating my chain every 300 - 500 miles, my OEM chain easily made it to 25,000 miles - with life still left when I replaced it.
 

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My track bike does not have a kickstand. Would one jack hold the bike leaned a bit to one side until I get my rear stand or when I need to mount RTS on axle in trailer?
 

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'Sup Chris!

Yeah, had to do that once before in the middle of nowhere AZ (Kayenta), but luckily I had a buddy to push the biek forward around the parking lot while I lubed the incredibly dry chain. I'd decided to try some chain wax instead of my usual PJ1 Blue Label, and it didn't last and the chain dried out.

The Snapjack lifts the swingarm by the bottom, so, on the second from the bottom hole for the pivot pin, it works just fine. Dunno how it'd work on the new underslung swingarm.

It should work just fine, and I'll post up after the trip! I should be putting about 1,500-2,000 miles on by the time I get home.
I didn't bring my beloved Motul chain lube with me and had to buy some Lucas chain lube from a Canadian Tire in PEI (crappy tire for us canucks) and boy did it make a mess! When I reached the cabot trail it was all up the leg of my leathers as discovered by the black mark on the chair I sat in at lunch that day. Sure my chain was well lubed but so was the tail of my bike and rear rim. When I got home my rim had a THICK layer of dirt mixed with chain lube that took some extensive cleaning, WD40 works great for cleaning that mess. I removed my belly pan for an oil change and had to scrape the crud out of my my belly pan and then also went as far as removing my front sprocket cover and removing the thick layer of built up crap in there that had accumulated to the point that the chain was in constant contact with it. I think when I do my own oil changes at 5000kms between the OEM recommended 10k service interval that I'll remove the sprocket cover and give it a good clean in there too.

I hope this tool works for you so I know if I should be ordering one!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I didn't bring my beloved Motul chain lube with me and had to buy some Lucas chain lube from a Canadian Tire in PEI (crappy tire for us canucks) and boy did it make a mess! When I reached the cabot trail it was all up the leg of my leathers as discovered by the black mark on the chair I sat in at lunch that day. Sure my chain was well lubed but so was the tail of my bike and rear rim. When I got home my rim had a THICK layer of dirt mixed with chain lube that took some extensive cleaning, WD40 works great for cleaning that mess. I removed my belly pan for an oil change and had to scrape the crud out of my my belly pan and then also went as far as removing my front sprocket cover and removing the thick layer of built up crap in there that had accumulated to the point that the chain was in constant contact with it. I think when I do my own oil changes at 5000kms between the OEM recommended 10k service interval that I'll remove the sprocket cover and give it a good clean in there too.

I hope this tool works for you so I know if I should be ordering one!
Man, it's been a long time since I heard "Canadian Tire" (And Tim Horton's?), I miss going up to Toronto (actually, Mississauga) to visit friends.

Yeah, I think people tend to find a chain lube they like, and nothing else seems to work as good. My experience with that chain wax (Yamalube I think) was bad, I threw almost a full can away after that incident in AZ. The Blue Label I use, contrary to what it says on the can, DOES fling off, but, I have a tendency to use a lot and actually use it to clean the chain too. But, it's never done anything like what you describe from the Lucas stuff! Yikes! Also, I think from now on every time I lube the chain at home I'll also clean off the excess really good like I did this time, something I usually didn't do, so, we'll see if the little globs that get flung off are less.

I'll definitely let y'all know how this works out on the road, as I know some of you also like to ride long distance on their 'RR. I'll post when I get back next week!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My track bike does not have a kickstand. Would one jack hold the bike leaned a bit to one side until I get my rear stand or when I need to mount RTS on axle in trailer?
No. I wouldn't try it at all. It's meant to lift the bike up on one side, so it's only stable(ish) under load with the majority of the weight on the kickstand. I don't want to see you drop your racebike because of this. Me, unless I was absolutely at the top of the timesheets, I'd leave my sidestand on. What, you're going to save 1/4lb? I know racers who've left theirs on and it's WAY too convenient to have it vs. not having one.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
In case helpful, a buddy of mine used to use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Multi-Fit-Triangle-Stand/dp/B0039LBEMA
You know, I was going to suggest something like that but those are usually used for dirtbikes (my KX500 came with one), but maybe that one has the larger and for sportbikes. Me, I just bolted a Black Widow wheel chock to a piece of plywood (just fits within the wheelwells of my former truck) with a bunch of bracing and I can just roll the bike into that and it won't fall over. I can use it in the garage, or, what I made it for, to transport the bike in the bed or in a trailer.
 

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Me, unless I was absolutely at the top of the timesheets, I'd leave my sidestand on. What, you're going to save 1/4lb? I know racers who've left theirs on and it's WAY too convenient to have it vs. not having one.
My first race in Sept, cannot have a kickstand otherwise I would have kept it. Also track body work does not work well with a kickstand.

In case helpful, a buddy of mine used to use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Multi-Fit-Triangle-Stand/dp/B0039LBEMA
I could not find any pics or instruction on how that stand works. Does the fork looking part go on swingarm side and triangle base on floor? I have a black powder coated swingarm, is it gonna get scratched?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
My first race in Sept, cannot have a kickstand otherwise I would have kept it. Also track body work does not work well with a kickstand.



I could not find any pics or instruction on how that stand works. Does the fork looking part go on swingarm side and triangle base on floor? I have a black powder coated swingarm, is it gonna get scratched?
Ah, didn't know a kickstand was banned in your series.

The pin goes into the hollow axle, and the flat part on the opposite end is on the floor.
 

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My first race in Sept, cannot have a kickstand otherwise I would have kept it. Also track body work does not work well with a kickstand.


I could not find any pics or instruction on how that stand works. Does the fork looking part go on swingarm side and triangle base on floor? I have a black powder coated swingarm, is it gonna get scratched?
It's really a dirt bike stand, but the shaft that sticks out at the top of the triangle would insert into the hole in your rear axle/spindle (if you have one). Here's an example: https://www.motosport.com/product/?adpos=1o1&cc=us&creative=331604528547&device=c&gclid=Cj0KCQjwv8nqBRDGARIsAHfR9wBMOQUG4dRz6sKbLsIJhx2sGWAtweDL4Vm41Pj7U6b3hok8J5RJvKwaAgwyEALw_wcB&key=Fly-Racing-TriStand&matchtype=&mrkgadid=3327779746&mrkgcl=500&network=g&product_id=FYL007X-X001-Y001&pssource=true&rkg_id=0&segment=badger&variant[FYL007X]=FYL007X-X001-Y001
 

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It should work just fine, and I'll post up after the trip! I should be putting about 1,500-2,000 miles on by the time I get home.
How was the trip? How did the tool work out?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
How was the trip? How did the tool work out?
Sadly, I didn't get to take the bike. Partway up I was monitoring tire life, and I just had a bad feeling I wasn't gonna make it to Denver, so I turned back and ended up taking the car. So, the bike has sat now for a couple weeks. The friggin' stealership here in Albuquerque wants $230 for an oil change! Needless to say I'm not going to be wasting any money with them. Sadly, the dealer in Santa Fe is owned by the same owner, so, if their prices are as absurd, I'll rent a trailer and take it the 1,000mi roundtrip to the Denver dealership where I bought it...

When I get to actually use it on the road, I'll definitely post up!
 
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