[Stam74]

600 and 650 are diameter measurements but they are not always spot on either.

e.g. 120/600 and 200/655 Bstone slicks are 604mm and 655mm dia. respectively.

That's what I thought, doing some maths:

- For a 120/70, tyre height is 84. So 84x2 plus 17 inches (43,18 cm) = 599 mm.

- For a 200/60, tyre height is 120. So 120x2 plus 17 inches = 670 mm

So it tallies up.

 

[phatr1s]

I had changed the OEM tires on my Duc 1199 and s1krr to 200 and i had not niticed any issues. I do mostly track days.

 

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

I've always known the size of my rubber mattered.......

 

[Snakie1]

Really...

I have a 13' HP4 that gets plenty of hard cornering, high speed runs, jumping RR tracks and commuting to work. I was given a set of the Dunlop GP-A Pro tires 190/60 rear and 120/70 front and completely destroyed the rear in 1500 miles. I run the TC set at "slick -4" and found out real quick that with this smaller tire the TC was a bit more sluggish and reacted later than I was accustom to. With the Pirelli Super Corsa I would "exercise" the TC throughout the turn but it was always very stable and predictable for me.

I was reading where people were claiming to get 800-900 miles out of the Pirellis. They must be doing burn outs everywhere they went, or they run 4psi in the tires or something is terribly wrong with their bike. 3000 miles out of the rear and just under 9000 miles out of the front tire is what you should expect to get. If you are complaining about tire costs and actually planning to mount "cheaper" tires, that you know have less grip maybe you should go buy a Suzuki. I have over 18K miles on my Juliet and I would never put her at risk because that puts me at risk! I hear shinko has a new ULTRA performance tire out...>

 

[macca_779]

Stock is a 190/55R17 according to my manual

 

[AndyHP4]

Stock is a 190/55R17 according to my manual

HP4 Manual 2013-08 2nd edition: 200/55 ZR 17
HP4 Manual 2014-09 3rd edition: 200/55 ZR 17

Which "older" manual you are looking at?

 

[bennymx]

Macca is talking about the S1000RR. It has a 190 stock. HP4 is 200 stock. I run 190 Bridgestone s20 normally. I have started running a 200 s20. No difference to the bike. Feels the same.

 

[sro]

Macca is talking about the S1000RR. It has a 190 stock. HP4 is 200 stock. I run 190 Bridgestone s20 normally. I have started running a 200 s20. No difference to the bike. Feels the same.

2015 S1000RR with forged wheels are equipped with 200.

 

[macca_779]

HP4 Manual 2013-08 2nd edition: 200/55 ZR 17

HP4 Manual 2014-09 3rd edition: 200/55 ZR 17



Which "older" manual you are looking at?

Not older. "Newer" actually. Like already mentioned the 15's are specced with either a 190 or 200. But they are both on a 55 profile, not a 60 like old mate who was having issues was using and might be why.

 

[bennymx]

2015 S1000RR with forged wheels are equipped with 200.

Correct :wink2:

 

[BruceV]

I know this is an old thread but I do have a question. I have the forged wheels tire size 200/55/17.

If we want to go by BMW instructions the traction control is calibrated for that size.

So if I want to run a 200/60/17 tire - will the traction control kick in later or sooner - or is it negligible?

Thanks

 

[skapan]

Bruce, I'm guessing negligible. that's not based on personal experience, but I've ridden a 2015 with a Dunlop 200/55 on the back that is taller than stock, no issues at all. And there's lots of riders now tracking the 2015 with all sorts of different tires. I think they have allowed about 10% in circumference in the algorithm for the traction control, they would have to have at least that to allow for carcass sizes between brands and different inflation pressures.
That's my opinion, I reserve the right to alter it if I get/see more details. Maybe the_gooch will chime in here.

 

[skapan]

And for all the guys chiming in with 2013 or 14 RRs or HP4's, please realize that the 2015 has new, different DTC programming along with the new ECU. It's a lot "smarter" than the previous version. That may or may not be a good thing, as we are discovering.

 

[BruceV]

Bruce, I'm guessing negligible. that's not based on personal experience, but I've ridden a 2015 with a Dunlop 200/55 on the back that is taller than stock, no issues at all. And there's lots of riders now tracking the 2015 with all sorts of different tires. I think they have allowed about 10% in circumference in the algorithm for the traction control, they would have to have at least that to allow for carcass sizes between brands and different inflation pressures.
That's my opinion, I reserve the right to alter it if I get/see more details. Maybe the_gooch will chime in here.

Chris:

I kind of think you are right - I know the 60 sidewall is almost a half inch taller if I'm doing the math correctly - is that enough to change the traction control intervention?????

 

[skapan]

My math says it's a 19% increase in circumference, 904 mm vs 759 mm. May be too much. Let's see if anyone else chimes in.

 

[z00]

Bruce,

I asked this question a while ago, there is some good answers. In summary, you should be fine. If bike does not feel right or you see DTC light flashing more often than usual folks on here suggested dropping DTC to -1 or -2 to compensate for tire changes. My bike came with 190 cast wheels, I put on forged wheels 200 tires, it's fine. Many people swapped tires sizes without issues. Unless you're not running something extreme.

Why are you running 60 sidewall? A specific reason or you got a good deal on tires?

 

[BruceV]

Bruce,

I asked this question a while ago, there is some good answers. In summary, you should be fine. If bike does not feel right or you see DTC light flashing more often than usual folks on here suggested dropping DTC to -1 or -2 to compensate for tire changes. My bike came with 190 cast wheels, I put on forged wheels 200 tires, it's fine. Many people swapped tires sizes without issues. Unless you're not running something extreme.

Why are you running 60 sidewall? A specific reason or you got a good deal on tires?

What I was told was going from a 190/55 to 200/55 or 200/55 to 190/55 is not as big of a deal as it is from going from a 200/55 to 200/60.

Reason for the 60 I like Pirelli's and their Race Slicks are 200/60/17. The Supercorsa DOT tires are 200/55/17 and also their Pro Slicks are 200/55/17.

 

[AndyHP4]

I know this is an old thread but I do have a question. I have the forged wheels tire size 200/55/17.

If we want to go by BMW instructions the traction control is calibrated for that size.

So if I want to run a 200/60/15 tire - will the traction control kick in later or sooner - or is it negligible?

Thanks

Wow, crazy number here, so let's be mathematically correct:

200/55/17 like the Pirellis SC has a circumference of 2060mm....measured brand new tyre

200/60/15 - I guess you mean 17" rahter than 15 aye :grin2:

You can't just take the tyre dimiensions and compute a theoretical circumference, that is not correct since these are only a guidance to classify your tyres. If you actually have a chance to measure these you will see that a 20/69 R17 Michelin Power Slick for instance got a circumference of 2070mm....measured brand new tyre

So that's roughly a +1.6mm increase in radius. That is a slip change of around 0.5%, means your TC kicks in not at 10% target slip instead at 10.5% since your rear is little bit bigger than OEM so at any given speed it rotates slower than the OEM tyre....

I guess you totally can neglegt that since you will have wear on front and rear and just in case the TC kicks in too late for you then change your TC settings accordingly: more intervention up the range, less intervention down the scale.

Even your rear is 3mm bigger only results in 1% later slip detection.

But be aware that if you also change the front tyre brand/type or even dimesnion that also needs to be considered but as long as you don't go totally crazy with tyre dimesnions you can adjust that with your handlebar switches.

I always read we swtich from 190/55 to 200/60 and the TC doesn't make a problem...well it's a big difference if the TC kicks in at a target slip of 10% or 13%....try that in not perfect conditions or rain and you will see what happens.

You just need to be sure in which direction you are moving so you can react accordingly. ALL these electronics are rider aids and somehow you need to trust them...if you mess around and not knowing the impact that how you trust them?

By the way what applies to DTC also applies to ABS :nerd:

Even you change from a 190/55 RR K3 to 200/55 Pirelli you are within 1% of a change.....

Go in a tyre shop and measure circumference of slick race tyres...barely you fins one with 2100mm I guess...that's like 200/65 ala MotoGP I guess....do the math, pretty easy.

 

[BruceV]

Andy:

Thanks for catching the typo I corrected it - yes I meant 17. I will try to get my hands on both tires to measure them.

What prompted me to bring this up again - my service manager said he did not see problems with the TC when going from 190 to 200 or vice versa. He told me that he has seen several RR's that the TC faulted - simply stopped working when going from 55 to 60 or the other way.

He said like you if it simply kicks in sooner or later then we can make an adjustment - his concern was it may fault out and just not work.

 

[AndyHP4]

Andy:

Thanks for catching the typo I corrected it - yes I meant 17. I will try to get my hands on both tires to measure them.

What prompted me to bring this up again - my service manager said he did not see problems with the TC when going from 190 to 200 or vice versa. He told me that he has seen several RR's that the TC faulted - simply stopped working when going from 55 to 60 or the other way.

He said like you if it simply kicks in sooner or later than we can make an adjustment - his concern was it may fault out and just not work.

Well, honestly not sure how a fault comes up even you mount a 180/65 or 200/65 tyre there - it's a sensor which is just counting the slots of the rear and also on the front and with an internal radius for both wheels it knows the speed....if you have the RCK2 or RCK3 you then have to set your own tyre radius since this kind of adaptation doesn't work anymore.

RCK2 manual:
The full scope of adaptation and modification for traction control is available only with the HP Race Power Kit. When used in combination with a standard control unit, the functionality differs from that available with the HP Race Power Kit as follows:
- The adaptation functions of the standard control unit for correction of tyre radius can act contrary to the modifications made in the HP Race Calibration Kit.

That's a note because on European models you can use the RCK2 software without having the raceECU installed, on US version you need both.

You will be good....!!!!!
Drop me a PM if you need some more computaions :nerd:

The DTC stops working if you hit the sensor with the brake disc or this 2mm gap is getting bigger due to tyre change...just check the condition of it and it must be clean too.