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Throttle CEL / no cruise control issues.

725 Views 20 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  S1K-Nate
2016 S1000RR.
When I go WOT at times, the bike instantly kills all power. CEL illuminates. And I have to turn bike completely off and back on to reset.

Also throttle related/possibly related to above concern,

Cruise control disengages as soon as I let my hand off the throttle (no brake/clutch engagement) if I hold my hand on the throttle cruise control will stay on. Heated grips still work. This is the only issue with the bike.

Finally got around to scanning. & I have the following codes:

21F951 - Throttle grip sensor
21F950 - Throttle grip sensor
21F972 - Throttle Valve 1
+ some exhaust flap codes but I have a full titanium Arrow exhaust, so not worried about those.

Any ideas? Do I need a new throttle grip assembly, throttle position sensor(s) ?

I performed a throttle twist grip and throttle valve adaption, cleared codes and can test the next warm day we have. Any other advice?

Live data shows throttle is -4.71 % at rest. 99% at full WOT twist.
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If its not the twist grip itself, it could be the connector. The pins are known to widen over time and this leads to intermittent connection issues with the grip. BMW have a repair connector available to fix this issue. Thats if its not the throttle body also.
Cruise control disengages as soon as I let my hand off the throttle (no brake/clutch engagement) if I hold my hand on the throttle cruise control will stay on. Heated grips still work. This is the only issue with the bike.
are you letting the throttle 'snap' back (in which case this is one of the methods to kill cc) or rolling it to closed throttle and taking your hand off the throttle?? You can also disengage the cc on a zero throttle by rolling it back that last little bit(sort of back past zero throttle)
are you letting the throttle 'snap' back (in which case this is one of the methods to kill cc) or rolling it to closed throttle and taking your hand off the throttle?? You can also disengage the cc on a zero throttle by rolling it back that last little bit(sort of back past zero throttle)
I have tried it both ways. Rolling it back softly. As soon as it gets to the closed position whether I let it go slowly or snap back. It kills it.
If its not the twist grip itself, it could be the connector. The pins are known to widen over time and this leads to intermittent connection issues with the grip. BMW have a repair connector available to fix this issue. Thats if its not the throttle body also.
I’ll check the pins. Because the first summer I had it. It worked flawlessly. This past summer. It hasn’t worked at all. Which pins widen? So I know where to look.
The pins in the throttle grip connector. You can do a test on the GS911 where you test the throttle grip and hold the throttle wide open and move the connector while plugged in. See if it drops out on the GS911. Had a GS do it the other week.
The pins in the throttle grip connector. You can do a test on the GS911 where you test the throttle grip and hold the throttle wide open and move the connector while plugged in. See if it drops out on the GS911. Had a GS do it the other week.
So I moved the connector around and nothing. I held throttle at around 20-30% and move connector. Never dropped out or adjusted throttle %

at rest my throttle twistgrip sensor reads -4.66% though. Shouldn’t it be at zero?
So I moved the connector around and nothing. I held throttle at around 20-30% and move connector. Never dropped out or adjusted throttle %

at rest my throttle twistgrip sensor reads -4.66% though. Shouldn’t it be at zero?
No, it does not go to zero. -4-5% is normal

Even only to 99% is usually normal on most.

The issue is the comparator algorithm. BMW changed manufactures of the K67 twist throttle mid 2021. There is now even 2 version of design that really stand out about the change, but, the change was made also to the type of connection on the 2019/20 and early 21. There are many of these twist throttle that just drop out. Then the worse issue is the braking and leaning into the twist throttle with your hands/ wrist. Under hard braking you should learn to use your core and legs to grip the tank. Dont allow your wrist to push into the twist throttle. There is a plastic electronic part in there that rubs against the comparator contacts too much and cause a glitch and drop out.

So, consider getting the updated throttle or even change over to a 2022 version and see if that resolves the issue.
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No, it does not go to zero. -4-5% is normal

Even only to 99% is usually normal on most.

The issue is the comparator algorithm. BMW changed manufactures of the K67 twist throttle mid 2021. There is now even 2 version of design that really stand out about the change, but, the change was made also to the type of connection on the 2019/20 and early 21. There are many of these twist throttle that just drop out. Then the worse issue is the braking and leaning into the twist throttle with your hands/ wrist. Under hard braking you should learn to use your core and legs to grip the tank. Dont allow your wrist to push into the twist throttle. There is a plastic electronic part in there that rubs against the comparator contacts too much and cause a glitch and drop out.

So, consider getting the updated throttle or even change over to a 2022 version and see if that resolves the issue.
So you believe it’s TG over TPS?
This is not good..

21F972 - Throttle Valve 1

This is the throttle bodies, but the GS911 does not identify Left Throttle Body vs the Right Throttle Body mostly because within the BMSO ECU it only works both together. With the BMS2M it can split the throttle body actuator.

So, I have seen 2 cases where the main throttle bodies were sticking really bad. One case the dealer did replace the unit under warranty, the other case they would not and I sold a work set to that customer and it resolved the issue.

So, you might have 2 issues.
read this too.. this is a common problem on the 2020 and early 21.


Then this thread

I've seen throttle bodies fail before.
I've seen throttle bodies fail before.
I have another throttle body with both sensors still attached from a 2014 though. Would these work? Or different due to the wire vs electronic throttle?
Also looks like part # for my year model is 61318534422 and the newer models are 61319467940 these are compatible?
What? oh my gosh. what a waste of my posting on this subject. How I thought you had a K67 ... Arrgghh.,.. so sorry I posted to your issue somewhat wrong. Disregard the posts I made about the spilt Throttle body stuff.
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Ok, I start over from here and keep my thoughts to 2015/2016 model.

First off this was the worse year for twist throttle issues when throttle by wire was put on the S1000RR product line.

There was a change in the manufacture for this in 2017.

Get a replacement if used from the 2018/2019 K46. This way you for sure get a newer version.

Then, the throttle bodies are only 2015-2019 K46. So no, 2014 will not work.

The throttle bodies on the 2015/16 have shown to have failed several times with others I have helped with TB1 errors.

So again, you might have 2 issues, but, the twist throttle might be bad enough it is causing the TB1 error. Replace the 15/16 twist grip with the newer version .. I have one in stock for $400 shipped if you are interested.
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What? oh my gosh. what a waste of my posting on this subject. How I thought you had a K67 ... Arrgghh.,.. so sorry I posted to your issue somewhat wrong. Disregard the posts I made about the spilt Throttle body stuff.


Ok, I start over from here and keep my thoughts to 2015/2016 model.

First off this was the worse year for twist throttle issues when throttle by wire was put on the S1000RR product line.

There was a change in the manufacture for this in 2017.

Get a replacement if used from the 2018/2019 K46. This way you for sure get a newer version.

Then, the throttle bodies are only 2015-2019 K46. So no, 2014 will not work.

The throttle bodies on the 2015/16 have shown to have failed several times with others I have helped with TB1 errors.

So again, you might have 2 issues, but, the twist throttle might be bad enough it is causing the TB1 error. Replace the 15/16 twist grip with the newer version .. I have one in stock for $400 shipped if you are interested.
Haha all good. But yeah I just cleared the codes and did a readapt on throttle bodies and twist grip. CC still not functioning properly. I can hold my hand at very slight throttle (maybe 5-10%) and it will keep CC activated. The second I roll it back to 0% or in this case -4 to -5% it cuts CC instantly. Which is what leads me to believe twistgrip.

So look at 18+ twist grip?
17 was the change on K46. So I advise if looking on eBay or elsewhere, make sure the part out is on a 2018/19 K46. Cant get K67 20-23 as those are different.

My throttle with heated grip ( dont forget this option if you have it ) is new in box and dealer on it is

61 31 8 534 422​
E-THROTTLE GRIP​
1​
$406.56​
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I’ve got some extra time and took off the e-throttle , I am examining the prongs and all look intact. Can you tell me which one I should be looking at for damage?
And would dielectric grease help?
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