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Discussion Starter #1
I've had my 2010 RR since 7k miles and it just rolled 10k today. In the past 500 miles I've noticed that the shift lever would get stuck on up shifts using the quickshifter. It has progressively gotten worse and is now doing it almost every up shift. The bike shifts perfectly when clutching. My described issue is only with the quickshifter. Everything is stock and the chain has the proper tension. I've read a lot on this forum about this issue but no one seems to describe my exact issue. I'm leaning towards a detent plate but would like your opinions before dropping $100. Thanks
 

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I had one Issue with a bike at work. The problem was the shift shaft spring. Behind that shift shaft in the picture there is a spring that sits over a block which is part of the case. It sits with a 1 side of the spring either side. Like if you made a V with your index finger and middle finger the tab would be in the middle. The spring was bent and 1 side was sliding up over the block causing the selector drum to get stuck and not rotate. More the point the 2 little claws on the shift shaft were not springing back far enough to grab the next gear. I just replaced the spring and all was fixed.





This spring on the selector shaft must sit either side of a square block that is part of the engine case. The problem with the one I had was that one side of the spring was bent outwards and would slip up and over the block. This caused the 2 claws not to move up enough to allow the shift star to rotate so it could grab the next gear. When you push the gear lever up with your foot it would try to move but never grab the next gear creating a jammed sensation.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I had one Issue with a bike at work. The problem was the shift shaft spring. Behind that shift shaft in the picture there is a spring that sits over a block which is part of the case. It sits with a 1 side of the spring either side. Like if you made a V with your index finger and middle finger the tab would be in the middle. The spring was bent and 1 side was sliding up over the block causing the selector drum to get stuck and not rotate. More the point the 2 little claws on the shift shaft were not springing back far enough to grab the next gear. I just replaced the spring and all was fixed.


Excellent, thank you so much. I am going to tear into this as soon as I get some time off. I've read that there is an upgrade spring from FactoryPro available. Is that something you would recommend using? I've also read that the actual shift shaft could be at fault as well as the detent spring. These were the problems mentioned on pre Oct '10 bikes which I believe mine is. I would like to actually fix the problem so it doesn't happen again, of course. Thank you again, Chris
 

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Upon re-reading your post. I think a re-teach of the quickshifter would be beneficial also. This is normally done through a BMW diagnostic computer at the dealer or via a GS-911. The quickshifter can be reset then the gears taught in manually by riding the bike and using the clutch to change to each gear. You must ride in each gear for 10 seconds then use the clutch to change to the next gear. Once gone all the way to 6th. Change down to 1st and try and use the quick shifter on the way up. Since you say the clutch works fine, maybe it is just the quickshifter that needs to be re-taught. Just a thought before you go pulling things apart.

The factory pro spring I have heard is a good thing. Stronger spring that provides a bit more force and a more positive shift feeling.

That spring is this one highlighted in green:

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Upon re-reading your post. I think a re-teach of the quickshifter would be beneficial also. This is normally done through a BMW diagnostic computer at the dealer or via a GS-911. The quickshifter can be reset then the gears taught in manually by riding the bike and using the clutch to change to each gear. You must ride in each gear for 10 seconds then use the clutch to change to the next gear. Once gone all the way to 6th. Change down to 1st and try and use the quick shifter on the way up. Since you say the clutch works fine, maybe it is just the quickshifter that needs to be re-taught. Just a thought before you go pulling things apart.

The factory pro spring I have heard is a good thing. Stronger spring that provides a bit more force and a more positive shift feeling.
I've never had an issue shifting with the clutch. The only time the shifter hangs is after a QS. This is true even if I firmly hold the lever up and give the transmission more than enough time to find the next gear, the lever will still hang up. Usually I have to roll off the throttle a touch but sometimes it finds its neutral zone on its own after a few seconds.
 

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Okay, I'm on the search for a GS911. Thank you for the help.
U don't need GS911 for QS relearn.

Teach quick shifter functionality:
- put the bike on rear stand and make sure the rear wheel can spin freely.
- start the engine.
- idle rpm should be between1400-1500 rpm. lf the rpm is around 2000 rpm you have
to visit your local BMW dealer and delete the adaption values ! no programming
possible!!!
- put in 1st gear and release the clutch ! rear wheel spins and you see speed in the
dashboard ! wait 5 seconds.
- put in 2nd gear, release clutch and wait 5 seconds.
- put in 3rd gear, release clutch and wait 5 seconds.
- put in 4th gear, release clutch and wait 5 seconds.
- put in 5th gear, release clutch and wait 5 seconds.
- put in 6th gear, release clutch and wait 5 seconds.
- shift back to neutral and wait 5 seconds.
- quick shifter should now be activated.
- stop the engine and switch off ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
U don't need GS911 for QS relearn.

Teach quick shifter functionality:
- put the bike on rear stand and make sure the rear wheel can spin freely.
- start the engine.
- idle rpm should be between1400-1500 rpm. lf the rpm is around 2000 rpm you have
to visit your local BMW dealer and delete the adaption values ! no programming
possible!!!
- put in 1st gear and release the clutch ! rear wheel spins and you see speed in the
dashboard ! wait 5 seconds.
- put in 2nd gear, release clutch and wait 5 seconds.
- put in 3rd gear, release clutch and wait 5 seconds.
- put in 4th gear, release clutch and wait 5 seconds.
- put in 5th gear, release clutch and wait 5 seconds.
- put in 6th gear, release clutch and wait 5 seconds.
- shift back to neutral and wait 5 seconds.
- quick shifter should now be activated.
- stop the engine and switch off ignition.
Is this after disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds? I guess I'm asking how to get the bike to idle at 1,500rpm?
 

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Is this after disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds? I guess I'm asking how to get the bike to idle at 1,500rpm?
That came from Alpha site. When I burned my clutch in the 14, I used this method and tps reset procedure too, as I did not have a gs911. On cold startup the idle will be a bit higher than if it has been thoroughly warmed up.

The alpha site has changed/updated the instructions since that time, but the steps seem to be the same from what I remember, although now it starts off with reference to kit ECU, installation, blah blah.

Maybe I'm having a Roger Clemens moment, if so, pay no mind and find GS911.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That came from Alpha site. When I burned my clutch in the 14, I used this method and tps reset procedure too, as I did not have a gs911. On cold startup the idle will be a bit higher than if it has been thoroughly warmed up.

The alpha site has changed/updated the instructions since that time, but the steps seem to be the same from what I remember, although now it starts off with reference to kit ECU, installation, blah blah.

Maybe I'm having a Roger Clemens moment, if so, pay no mind and find GS911.
Gotcha. Seems like a pretty simple procedure. No disconnecting of the battery required. Clutch into 1st and shift using the clutch through all the gears letting the bike run for 10s each gear. Then clutch in to N from 6th. This should reset it.
 

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Gotcha. Seems like a pretty simple procedure. No disconnecting of the battery required. Clutch into 1st and shift using the clutch through all the gears letting the bike run for 10s each gear. Then clutch in to N from 6th. This should reset it.
also from alpha.......
Completing the Tuning Process: Resetting the Throttle Position Sensor ("TPS") is mandatory immediately after the tuning.
1. Hold throttle fully open, ignition off.
2. Turn ignition on and continue holding throttle fully open for 15 seconds.
3. Turn off the ignition but still hold throttle fully open for another 15 seconds.
4. Release throttle.
5. TPS reset is complete.
 

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One more thing

I don't think anyone mentioned this to you, but there has been mention in the past that the bushing in the shift lever can get gunked up and cause problems too.

So on the order of simplistic things to knock out of the way, maybe remove shift lever and thoroughly clean the bushing and reinstall lever and have a go:grin2:.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I don't think anyone mentioned this to you, but there has been mention in the past that the bushing in the shift lever can get gunked up and cause problems too.

So on the order of simplistic things to knock out of the way, maybe remove shift lever and thoroughly clean the bushing and reinstall lever and have a go:grin2:.
I did try this already to no avail. I took everything apart, cleaned, and reassembled with some chain lube and nothing changed. It all felt as smooth as silk with it disconnected at the shift shaft even before disassembly.

When I found the QS rod rubbing on the trans casing around the splined shaft I thought I had struck gold, but even after readjusting it, the same symptoms occurred.
 

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I did try this already to avail. I took everything apart, cleaned, and reassembled with some chain lube and nothing changed. It all felt as smooth as silk with it disconnected at the shift shaft even before disassembly.

When I found the QS rod rubbing on the trans casing around the splined shaft I thought I had struck gold, but even after readjusting it, the same symptoms occurred.
Well, sorry to say, replacing the part The_Gooch listed and a Factory Pro Tuning detent spring (even if your oem one seems fine it'd be worth it, to me, as you're already all up in there, I think it's only like $50) and hopefully you'll find that gold.

You might check on trade value, locate a leftover 2015, and not buy any parts for the 2010.>:)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, sorry to say, replacing the part The_Gooch listed and a Factory Pro Tuning detent spring (even if your oem one seems fine it'd be worth it, to me, as you're already all up in there, I think it's only like $50) and hopefully you'll find that gold.

You might check on trade value, locate a leftover 2015, and not buy any parts for the 2010.>:)
Haha yes that's true but I really enjoy not having a payment and I couldn't afford a '15 out right.. Guess I'll have to make due with the old girl :wink2:

Along with the Factory Pro spring, I am looking at replacing part #10? I've heard that the star/detent #14 can wear as well... Your opinion? The manual says I need a special cog looking tool. Is this necessary or can I make do with some screwdrivers? Also, any other specialty tools needed? I'll be replacing gaskets and the clutch nut.

 
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