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Thanks for the response. Bike only had about 1200 miles on it, but I installed new gaskets anyway.
Interesting. I would think the kit would come with some sort of spacers to account for that gap since most these kits are bike specific. Just seems a little weird to me. I’ve asked a bunch of folks and I swear I’m getting 50/50 “it’s normal” vs “that shouldn’t be there” responses. I appreciate the reply.
My experience when I installed my austin racing headers was that I was able to finally get everything flat & flush, but it was tough (and probably past the torque specs). As you were inclined to think, once you're bending the studs, you're putting too much sideways torque on them. That being said, I noticed I was starting to bend the last stud trying to get that very last little bit of flushness so I stopped there. It's not worth risking snapping a stud at that point. The only tips/advice I can offer is:
-make sure you're not crossthreaded (you probably aren't, but just be wary of this)
-make sure you're torquing down in an even fashion (even amount per side as you go)
-if you can, I would also disconnect those springs at the bottom while you're torquing to avoid any extra stress on the studs while you're torquing
-last thing, and probably the most potentially helpful here, try & use a ratcheting cordless wrench. This would allow you to torque the nut down without putting all that bending force on the stud

Just my .02. At the end of the day if you can't get them flush, you're probably honestly fine to run like that, I would just make it a habit to check the exhaust nuts like once a month and make sure they're not backing out at all. Retorque as necessary. Good luck & enjoy the flames!
 

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Lol, "bent studS". Contrary to the above post, I would still try & get them just a little closer to flush, but definitely not flat, with a right-angle impact (on a light torque setting, of course). That way you're not risking bending studs or breaking anything, but still ensuring they seat properly to form complete seal. The nuts can actually back out slightly as it goes through the first few heat cycles after the install, which is why you're supposed to run it a few times & then check & retorque as required, before finally putting everything back together for good.. So you actually want the nuts & flanges further down than not right now to account for that. Ensuring that the gaskets get compressed to form a lasting seal is the important part now. It'd be a pain in the ass to get the radiator all hooked back up & everything back together, only to find out later that you have an exhaust leak. Do it once the right way, is my point of view.

Snapped some quick pics of mine through the fairing for comparison, and while it looks like your studs are longer, there's definitely still a bit more room to go.
 

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