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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am replacing my wheel bearings in the front. I haven't knocked them out yet. I have been reading about ceramic bearings here on the forums. The parts sites for BMW do not give any detailed information on what dimensions the bearings are and what the generic part numbers are. Only BMW part numbers. So I thought I would list the bearings and their part numbers here for quick reference. Maybe a mod can sticky this to save people time.

Front Wheel Bearings
Dimensions: ID 25mm x OD 47mm x Width 12mm
Generic Part Number:6005-2RS

Rear Wheel Bearings
Dimensions: ID 28mm x OD 52mm x Width 12mm
Generic Part Number:60/28-2RS

Sprocket Carrier
Dimensions: ID 28mm x OD 58mm x Width 16mm
Generic Part Number:62/28-2RS
 

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There is a lot more information on ceramic bearings in the drag oriented forums. The following is taken from a post in such a forum and supposedly is an email from the owner of worldwide, whose bearings are the same ones sold by Brocks:

Hi Lee, thanks ! I hate using dyno #'s but I know our customers have seen anywhere for 3 to 5 hp on dynos all over the world depending on what kit it is, and that's measuring 1 wheel only, I tell everyone we are not putting nitrous in the bearings what we are doing is freeing up what is already there by reducing friction. Ask Brock what he has seen , I know he had some really good results. Here's some info on what we do below.

We sell to all the top factory Road Race and MX teams all around the world, and have been since 1998 , Bill Warner's 311 mph Busa has our wheel , trans and cam bearings , we also did wheel bearings in the Bub 7 Streamliner which ran 367 mph ,
not to mention we have had wheel and trans bearings in every NHRA championship Pro Stock Motorcycle since 1999, we have over 20 or 25 bearings in Larry McBride's and Korry Hogan's Top Fuel bikes both 5 second 250 mph 1/4 mile 1000hp
motorcycles. When me and Larry got together around 2000 he was going thru rear wheel bearings twice a season, after we did them he ran 4 or 5 full seasons before we changed them out and everything was still perfect

All our bearings are hand assembled in New Jersey ( USA ) , 95% of the Silicon Nitride balls are manufactured in Connecticut ( USA ) by Cerbec , on the other 5% we use SKF/ MRC ( USA ) and Hoover ( USA ) , the grease is Mobil Polyrex EM ( USA ) , the seals are very light contact seals made in ( Taiwan ) to our specs ,the bearing cage is a 1 piece low friction nylon made by ORS ( Turkey ) or in ( Taiwan ) to our specs , and the steel inner and outer races are made of 52100 bearing steel and mainly from Koyo ( Japan ) but we use a few other Japanese companies too, we also use 1 very good company called ORS ( Turkey ) who right now is even making bearings for Timken USA , here is a pic from the ORS factory in Turkey below. Also one last thing , we have been doing Ceramic bearings since 1998 , since then a lot of Chinese companies are trying to copy what we do , please advise everyone to stay away from Chinese Ceramic Bearings , there are 100's of pages on Ebay of ceramic bearings that will fail , not might they will. I'm even going to give you some of my competitors names , if someone doesn't buy from us I'd feel much better that they bought from another company using quality parts so no one ever gets hurt. Craig @ Micro Blue Racing in Denver NC is a competitor and good friend of ours , he actually takes our hybrids and polishes and coats the steel races , its not in everyones budget but it does help, Charlie @ CBR Bearing in Fallbrook California uses Cerbec balls , Terry @ Bearing Tech in Newberg Oregon uses quality parts and Jack @ Performance Bearings in Arizona uses Cerbec balls too.

I also always recommend to have a dealer install the bearings , they will always have the correct bearing drivers. Please don't get caught up with people telling you to pull the seals off or run oil on the bearings , if you dyno a ceramic bearing with grease and seals against a steel bearing with oil and no seals the ceramic bearing will always show more hp , and once again I hate using dyno #'s , the increase comes from reduced friction of the ceramic ball being rounder , harder and 60% lighter than the steel ball. We have tested every way possible and there is no comparison, 99% of our customers are racers and not that anyone seems to care but we have had a few people do fuel mileage tests and seen a increase of 2 mpg on a 1000cc bike, all thru reduced friction. I tell people all the time if you can notice a difference just pushing a bike around what do you think its doing under a load. Also I saw people posting about Tommy Miceli's brake mod, Tommy is one of my best friends and dynos many of our kits , he also rides my NHRA Suzuki , if you ever need to get in touch with him let me know, Another small mod is to leave the dust seals on but pull the springs off them

I have been in the bearing industry since 1982 , I've worked for the largest distributor in the world at the time, I've worked at a Japanese bearing manufacturer and I went on my own in 1994. I have Drag Raced bikes since 1982 and I truly believe in what we do, you can always get me on the phone for any simple question and I always take time to talk to everyone even if it means pointing them in another direction. Now I'm 47 , own a Busa , ride a YZ250 MX bike , building a 1972 H2 Kawasaki for Land Speed Racing and own the 911
Pro Stock Suzuki that Tommy Miceli rides, and every one of those bikes has tested our bearings in them at one time or another.

Thanks Dave WWB

World Wide Bearing install .. @ ZX-14.com
 

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According to AS cycles the 2015 and 2012 gens have the same part number for the sprocket carrier bearing, This is a 5206 next to the bearing from the sprocket carrier on my 2012, it is a different diameter and also a different width. It has 62/28RDH written on the side of it.. Hopefully the bearing place does exchanges :/




Ught I should have noticed in the OP that the ID of the wheel bearing is different from the sprocket carrier.. oh well
 

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I have yet to see a technical comparison under lab conditions proving a major (not minor) advantage to ceramic bearings. For people that need EVERY advantage regardless of cost, fine, but for the rest of us.....nope. All I hear about these claims is from people who are in the business of SELLING them. An engineer here had an excellent post about his opinion of them, and I agree 100% with it.

Good luck, whatever your choice!
 

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Some time early in 2012 the sprocket hub and axle spacers were changed, I'll bet they put a different bearing in the hub at that time. If you look at the 2010-11 microfiches they have the details for both sprocket carriers.
 

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Some time early in 2012 the sprocket hub and axle spacers were changed, I'll bet they put a different bearing in the hub at that time. If you look at the 2010-11 microfiches they have the details for both sprocket carriers.
Im not seeing it then,
Here is 2010 https://www.ascycles.com/2/MicroList?id=54122&catID=36&catname=36 Wheels and Tires , Here is 2012 https://www.ascycles.com/2/MicroList?id=54124&catID=36&catname=36 Wheels and Tires , and here is 2015 https://www.ascycles.com/2/MicroList?id=58022&catID=36&catname=36 Wheels and Tires All have 27718523193 as the bearing, even the forged wheels have the same part number. Mine is also a late 2012 model. The original post lists the rear wheel bearings as having a 28mm id and the sprocket bearing as having a 30mm id, unless the version that has 5206 as the bearing runs a spacer between the bearing and the axle, which i dont see in any of the drawings, then those cant be the correct parts for the same model..
 

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You're correct. The hub and the spacer changed but the bearing is the same part number for all. My mistake. So are Benny's dimensions correct for your 2012, or do they match the (incorrect) bearing that you purchased?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The info I have just from part numbers is this:

2010 - 2014: 07 11 9 906 873 Rear wheel bearings < this part number expired on 11/04/2014. That's april for you americans, not november.

2015 - 2016: 36 31 8 548 881 Rear wheel bearings

The sprocket carrier bearing has remained the same all the way through: 27 71 8 523 193.

The sprocket carrier bearing is also what they call a double row bearing. Thicker. It has a larger ID but don't forget the cush drive has a smaller spacer behind it for the axle to go through and stop the rear wheel from binding.

I provided this info in the original OP when I did bearings on my old 14 bike.
 

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You're correct. The hub and the spacer changed but the bearing is the same part number for all. My mistake. So are Benny's dimensions correct for your 2012, or do they match the (incorrect) bearing that you purchased?
Swapped the 5206 for a 62/28RDH and it dropped right in, The dimentions listed in op are the dimentions for a 5206 but not for the sprocket carrier bearing. It is ID28mm, OD58mm and 16mm wide.
 

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I apologize for reviving an old thread, but this is the closest one I could find to my issue.

I'm 97% sure that one of my wheel bearings in the rear wheel has gone bad, but I can't find it on any parts fiche to order replacements. I have a 2016 with Forged wheels, not Cast. I'm able to find the bearings under the Cast fiche matching the part number provided in the OP, but not the Forged fiche. Surely I don't have to buy a whole new Forged rim just to get new bearings, right??

Out of curiosity, what kind of damage could ignoring bad bearings cause?
 

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Out of curiosity, what kind of damage could ignoring bad bearings cause?
In worst case sudden changes in wheel/ bike direction, very unstable steering.
And/ or damage to rim bearing cavity, in that case you can not just swap bearings, you must fix the rim first, or a buy a new rim.
 

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Are the wheel bearings up front the same as the ones in the rear? I looked through the service manual but it only has instructions for replacing as well as dimensions of the wheel bearing for the front tire; the rear was never mentioned.
 

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Are the wheel bearings up front the same as the ones in the rear? I looked through the service manual but it only has instructions for replacing as well as dimensions of the wheel bearing for the front tire; the rear was never mentioned.
Maybe you should read the first message?
 

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If you look up HP4 wheels on the online fiches you will find the three bearings listed by part number (2 in the hub are the same, the sprocket carrier one is a different number). Just remove them as you would the fronts.
 

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Maybe you should read the first message?
I did. I may have read it wrong, but I believe Benny was replacing the front wheel bearings on a 2014 bike which would leave me to believe he was working on a bike with CAST wheels. I have a 2016 with FORGED wheels and as special as they seem to be, would leave me to believe that they do not share the same wheel bearings or dimensions with the Cast wheels.

Absolutely not! :laugh:
I've seen the price of normal bearings so I will need to see a cost analysis for those ceramic ones and a bit of what Brock is smoking over there.

what are the symptoms?
I removed the chain and brake pads from the wheel, then spun it freely.
While it did spin easily (and would have for perhaps an eternity), it was rather noisy the entire time. I then tried lubing the spacers and trying again, but the noise persisted. The bike is also just 3k shy of 40,000 miles.

If you look up HP4 wheels on the online fiches you will find the three bearings listed by part number (2 in the hub are the same, the sprocket carrier one is a different number). Just remove them as you would the fronts.
Ah-ha! I can't thank you enough! I immediately found the bearings after selecting the original HP4's parts fiche vs going through the 2016's fiche. One final question. I know I should replace the bearings as a set... does that mean I need to replace the Spacer Tube that goes in between both bearings too?
 
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