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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys,

I am an owner of a BMW S1000RR 2013 Model running @ 35k kilometer mileage currently with Bazzaz Piggyback installed (Installed 1 year+ ago). I recently serviced my bike at my local BMW service provider and took it back home fine and running.

However upon on picking up my bike, I noticed my bike look extra clean which means they washed it thoroughly. I took it home and the bike was sitting at home for a week (I normally ride during the weekends).

On the weekend, when I decided to take the bike for a spin, I cant seem to go above the 4k rpm line, it didn't allow me. The bike was misfiring and full of hesitation if I try to go above 4k rpm. I then came home and plugged the USB port of my Bazzaz unit to the computer and found out that the TPS reading during zero throttle was 10% and when I pulled the throttle to the max it would read only up to 35%. When I tried to calibrate the TPS on the bazzaz software, the TPS value returned normally (but the voltage reading for the previous one and new calibration was out by 50%). However even after recalibration, the bike still had hesitation like mentioned above.

I called my local BMW service provider and returned the bike to them for checking. Upon checking, they found moist at the tapped wires by Bazzaz (Throttle Position Sensor, Gear Position Sensor and Crank Position Sensor). Upon on cleaning the moist, he said the bike performed better however he still felt a little misfiring and found out that the spark plug has given way. After changing the spark plug, everything is back to normal BUT now there is hesitation at 6-8k rpm (even with Bazzaz removed). Lower or above that, the bike is fine.

According to the mechanic, it seems like the wiring harness that was tapped (TPS, GPS, CPS) had been cut too deep causing the ECU not to get proper signal (CAN Bus). I then mentioned to them that I was using Bazzaz for 1 year plus and it was all fine till the day I sent the bike for servicing. He then mentioned that the wire will start to get hard when there is changes in heat (cold and hot).

So now, he is suggesting to change the engine wiring harness because of the wire that was tapped is not giving the proper resistance for the CAN Bus system to work correctly (He assumed this). Since I have zero knowledge on such things, I just acknowledge and said will get back to them on this matter.

Since the wiring harness is not cheap and the mechanic has no proof of the fault is caused by the wire, I would appreciate if you guys could chip in your views/suggestion/advise on this matter.

Thanks a bunch :smile2:
 

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Sounds like he's right to me. If the Bazzaz has been removed and all adaptation values reset such as TPS and mixture control etc. Then ruling out a failed TPS, coil, Spark plug, cam sensor would render the damaged wiring to be the culprit. Before replacing the whole loom as that is extreme in terms of cost and labour time as the bike is out of warranty. I would be running a new wire for all tapped wire components to rule out the wiring being at fault.
 

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Humm. If everything worked great before you took it to the dealer, then I would assume something changed at the dealer to cause it to mess up. It sounds like you have already removed the bazzaz unit. Obviously remove the battery positive terminal for a few minutes to let the ecu adaptions reset. I would check to make sure everything is plugged in correctly or a plug isn't loose etc. I would put money on the fact that the wiring harness didn't magically go bad the day you happened to take it to the dealer. Once I checked the connections on everything, then work from the throttle position wire to the throttle.


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Changing the wire harness without definitive evidence that it is causing the problem seems a bit extreme to me. It will be expensive and a lot of labor hours to swap out. Then it may not even be the problem.

You said the Bazzaz is now removed, but it still has the problem? I would check the O2 sensor and connections. Could be the map is over or under correcting fuel. Also, can you get past the 6-8k bog down? And if so, does it pick back up to normal power up through the rest of the rpm? If thats the case I would look at some vibration harmonic causing a wire connection or relay to have bad continuity. Hard to trace. I had a similar problem on another bike- flat spot at 12k. Turned out to be a vibrating side-stand cut-out relay. But there are a number of gremlins that could cause your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sounds like he's right to me. If the Bazzaz has been removed and all adaptation values reset such as TPS and mixture control etc. Then ruling out a failed TPS, coil, Spark plug, cam sensor would render the damaged wiring to be the culprit. Before replacing the whole loom as that is extreme in terms of cost and labour time as the bike is out of warranty. I would be running a new wire for all tapped wire components to rule out the wiring being at fault.
Humm. If everything worked great before you took it to the dealer, then I would assume something changed at the dealer to cause it to mess up. It sounds like you have already removed the bazzaz unit. Obviously remove the battery positive terminal for a few minutes to let the ecu adaptions reset. I would check to make sure everything is plugged in correctly or a plug isn't loose etc. I would put money on the fact that the wiring harness didn't magically go bad the day you happened to take it to the dealer. Once I checked the connections on everything, then work from the throttle position wire to the throttle.


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Thanks for your replies.

I will need to check with him back regarding the adaption values reset (TPS, mixture control etc) and also the other components (TPS, Coil, Spark Plug and Cam Sensor condition) and will update back here.

Regarding the wire, I was told by the mechanic that the CAN Bus wire is not recommended to be tapped to avoid interference/noise. And also they are not allowed to cut and reconnect the wire as BMW does not allow that. He said CAN Bus wire requires proper way of handling for re-connection as it is a sensitive wire. According to him, even a slight pressure on the wire, will cause problem. Once again, I simply acknowledged about it since I have zero knowledge on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Changing the wire harness without definitive evidence that it is causing the problem seems a bit extreme to me. It will be expensive and a lot of labor hours to swap out. Then it may not even be the problem.

You said the Bazzaz is now removed, but it still has the problem? I would check the O2 sensor and connections. Could be the map is over or under correcting fuel. Also, can you get past the 6-8k bog down? And if so, does it pick back up to normal power up through the rest of the rpm? If thats the case I would look at some vibration harmonic causing a wire connection or relay to have bad continuity. Hard to trace. I had a similar problem on another bike- flat spot at 12k. Turned out to be a vibrating side-stand cut-out relay. But there are a number of gremlins that could cause your problem.
Thanks for you reply.

I will check with the mechanic regarding the O2 Sensor and the connection as well.

I could get past the 6-8k rpm hesitation and the power is there after the 8k rpm range or before the 6k rpm range.

I will keep note on the side stand cut relay too and let him know about that too.
 

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Thanks for your replies.

I will need to check with him back regarding the adaption values reset (TPS, mixture control etc) and also the other components (TPS, Coil, Spark Plug and Cam Sensor condition) and will update back here.

Regarding the wire, I was told by the mechanic that the CAN Bus wire is not recommended to be tapped to avoid interference/noise. And also they are not allowed to cut and reconnect the wire as BMW does not allow that. He said CAN Bus wire requires proper way of handling for re-connection as it is a sensitive wire. According to him, even a slight pressure on the wire, will cause problem. Once again, I simply acknowledged about it since I have zero knowledge on it.
That sounds like service manager BS. Its just a wire. Granted, you want a clean signal. But its just a wire. No reason to tap into it unless you needed to access the signal.
 

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I only installed the Bazzaz Z-Fi Fuel Controller, not the Bazzaz Z-AFM Auto Fuel Mapper.
Correct. But you must disconnect the OEM O2 or the ECU will try to tune around the correction of the Bazzaz. The worse part is that the BMW ECU tries to use a "global" correction to fix the perceived problem first, which means it more than likely leans out everything a LOT.

You can leave the OEM O2 hooked up, but you can only tune 100% throttle, leaving all the other columns 0.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Correct. But you must disconnect the OEM O2 or the ECU will try to tune around the correction of the Bazzaz. The worse part is that the BMW ECU tries to use a "global" correction to fix the perceived problem first, which means it more than likely leans out everything a LOT.

You can leave the OEM O2 hooked up, but you can only tune 100% throttle, leaving all the other columns 0.
Thanks for your reply.

I have checked the Bazzaz instructions and yes you are right. It is advised to remove both O2 Sensor to avoid the ECU in overriding the fuel maps. The installation was done by a Bazzaz dealer here and they didn't seem to remove it as per the instruction. I got them to do so as soon as you advised me.

Now the bike is running with the O2 sensor unplugged and I got it re-tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Some Updates :

- Mechanic confirmed that the adaption value reset has been done and he have checked the O2 sensor. Everything is working fine
- Mechanic said the coil, tps etc is fine (because of no fault code). He is assuming the engine wiring harness is the root cause.
- I removed the O2 Sensor as per Bazzaz instruction. The bike is now running without the O2 sensor and got it re-tuned.
- Stock dyno run seem to be rich.
- After re-tuning (corrected the fuel towards the optimum AFR), the problem is now gone however I do feel some minimal hesitation sometimes at the 6k range. Most of the time its perfect.

I know there is still something wrong with the bike, because before the problem arise the bike was running fine without problem (with or without Bazzaz installed). Any ideas why did re-tuning the fuel maps somehow eliminated almost 98% of the problem?

I've attached the dyno graph (without and with Bazzaz). The top most (lighter color) is with Bazzaz installed and the bottom one (darker color) is running stock. As you guys can see, without the Bazzaz, the hesitation is really bad. After re-tuning the Bazzaz, it was smoother and almost had no hesitation (98% time was fine)



Side note : My battery is 4 years old (If I don't ride quite sometime, I would get the VDS! error. Could the battery be the problem?)

So what do you guys think? Any idea what is the problem :frown2:? Is the mechanic right about the engine wiring harness even if re-tuning the fuel map fixed almost 98% of the problem?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Problem Solved

Just an update, my problem has been solved. The culprit was one of my ignition coil (broken).

Thanks to an experienced mechanic (also an authorized BMW service center) which I would say have way better knowledge and understanding on BMW bikes.

Such a shame to the main HQ for blaming all crap nonsense (engine wiring harness, Bazzaz, etc) when it was just a simple ignition coil that has given way. And definitely I would have suspected that they screwed up my ignition coil as it happened right after they changed my spark plug (upon on collection of my bike).

Whatever is it, I'm happy my bike is running fine now. Way smoother and awesome!

Thanks
 

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There is no way to test a coil out of the bike. You can start the engine and do a temp check on the header tubes to figure out what cylinder is colder than the others in comparison, but that does not mean it is the coil causing this issue.
 
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