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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Turn the key and nothing happens. Cant here anything or see anything on the dashboard.
Its like there's no battery in it.
New battery this week, went for a ride and it was working perfectly.
My charger says its more then 80% of power left.
All fuses looks ok.

Any suggestions?
 

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Can still be a fuse. I had a pink 4 amp fuse pop at the very corner and you could not see that it was blown visually. Put a ohm meter on it, or just check it for 12V at both sides if the fuse. Check all of them that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Can still be a fuse. I had a pink 4 amp fuse pop at the very corner and you could not see that it was blown visually. Put a ohm meter on it, or just check it for 12V at both sides if the fuse. Check all of them that way.
Yes i did though about it at the time, but didn't have a multimeter with me.
So I didn't have any other options then to check visible.

If i matters (not regards the fuses) its a Euro spec bike.
 

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Pardon my lack of knowledge. But I fail to see that it could be the problem. Would you mind to share more details why you consider the ignition switch to be a part of the problem
Ignition switch contacts can fail internally. They can fail in the on or off position. When they fail in the on position you can turn the key to off and pull it out. The bike will still run. Yours may have failed in the off position. Check the main 40amp fuse and the rest of the fuses as suggested.
 

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Also, check your fuse with the meter. Sometimes they look ok but they are not. Especially if you have a bad eye sight like I do. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok so update.
Battery was at 3.45 v :)
Didn't check the fuses, charger completely dead.
Not a surprise, but that mens the alternator must be bad too.
Not to take a piss on you guys, but could it still be the ignition switch?
How long will it take you to get from full Battery to almost nothing without an alternator?

How hard is it to change the alternator?
 

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You need to get some hands on help before you start throwing parts at it. We can't help you, we're too far away.
 

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If the bike is not charging it won't go very far before it dies. The bike needs a strong voltage supply or things go haywire. They crack the sh1ts when a terminal is loose let alone no charge. Its easy to check anyway. Get a new battery and then start the bike. Check charge rate at the battery with a multimeter. If it's under 14v you have an issue. Come ask me when you get to this stage. If you can't do this then forget the rest.
 

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Assuming no charge, I'm going to be proactive and point you in this direction...


No need to get a sore throat repeating yourself @bennymx :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You need to get some hands on help before you start throwing parts at it. We can't help you, we're too far away.
Not saying I'm an expert of any sort but I'm sn electrician and an engineer in electronics.
Know a thing or two about electricity.
But I don't know a lot about bikes or car electronics.

I will measure the voltage to day and see if it is the alternator.
What resistance am I supposed to have in the alternator?
 

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Don't worry about resistance. Disconnect the grey plug from the regulator do a continuity check from each of the 3 pins to ground (engine block). If you get a beep on any of them. Its shorted. Then leave it disconnected and start the bike. Check the AC output on all 3 pins. They should all be the same. If 1 is different or 2 are different then its dropped a phase and is faulty.
 

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let me add something that is way overlooked in automotive/motorcycle these days.

Once you hit the starter button the voltage drops because of the load. The ECU threshold is 10.9 volts. Once you drop below that the ECU will not attempt to fire the injectors. The battery must be strong, not just showing 11.5-12.5 volts at rest no load.

Another thing about alternators. It is required that at least 11.2 volts must go in before 13.2-14.5 will output. So again, a battery that manages to start a car or bike but the headlights are on lets say draws enough load that the voltage drops below threshold, there will not be any output at the regulator.
 
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regulator is more likely to have failed than the alternator i'd think. this is kinda mentioned above too, but i always started with a charged battery and voltmeter on it, start the bike, make sure with it running, it's in that 13.4v range, if not, then start troubleshooting between the reg and alt as described above. FYI new parts are $1400 for the stator and $220 or so for the reg. used on ebay much cheaper. i may actually have a used reg here that i had installed that i know worked. let us know what you find out.
 
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