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Discussion Starter #1
I am starting to shop for a used S1000R. I did a search for this information in the forum, but didn't find it. If there's already a topic on this, I'm sorry for the duplicate.

Are there any particular years to avoid because of inherent issues that were fixed later in the production run?

I know that in 2017 there was a slight increase in HP and it looks like the body panels changed slightly, but other than that any gotchas to look out for (e.g. "Avoid the 2014 because the <blah> is prone to early failure", etc...)

Are all of the 2014 - 2016 models the same aside from things like color?

Thanks for any info you can provide.
 

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Correct, 14-16 are the same mechanically, just the colours changed. I have a 14 with 33k miles on, I think the only issue I had was a water pump replacement. Just done the 2 nd vale service and they were all in spec.
 

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There were some 2014s that had a defective rear shock, the preload did not work. Some also had the cam chain replaced under warranty. My wife's 2014 had both issues, mine did not. The 2016 is better in many ways, and of course the 2017 added shift assist and throttle blip along with a huge catalytic converter.
So no, there are not really any bad things to watch for, but honestly a 7 year old bike will be in a condition resulting from proper maintenance or the lack thereof rather than manufacturing defects. Good luck in your search.
 

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There were some 2014s that had a defective rear shock, the preload did not work. Some also had the cam chain replaced under warranty. My wife's 2014 had both issues, mine did not. The 2016 is better in many ways, and of course the 2017 added shift assist and throttle blip along with a huge catalytic converter.
So no, there are not really any bad things to watch for, but honestly a 7 year old bike will be in a condition resulting from proper maintenance or the lack thereof rather than manufacturing defects. Good luck in your search.
Thanks, this is the type of info I was looking for. Were both of these issues were apparent as fairly low mileage?

I agree that maintenance plays a big part, but with internal parts and things they break when they break (case in point, some early wet head RTs have had stator failures and the part was revised after the first year or two of production. That has nothing to do with maintenance and is quite expensive to replace if it fails).

Was the shift assist available on the earlier bikes as an Option? I think that I've seen it listed in ads for them (I have shift assist on my RT and while it is not necessary, it's pretty convenient).
 

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Shift assist (upshift only) was there on most bikes as part of a package, but the assist down shift and throttle blip is only from 2017 on - the new ECU starting that year enhanced other functions too.
 

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i have the 2011 and it is still a great track bike
 

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As kind of mentioned, the 2014-2016 pretty bulletproof. I heard the bar vibrations were somewhat bad on the earlier models. Also the earlier models had a slick plug for user mode verses the newer ECU having dynamic modes with ride enhancements all updated at the 600 mile service(so permanent from break in).

Not sure if the 14-16 had cruise control? 17+ does, the auto blip is great, and the akra muffler comes on the bike stock. Also if you're lucky you can track down a model with the rarer forged wheels over the cast wheels, lighter tip in and better (floating) rotors i think?

Great bike for commuting in my limited experience, anything over 150 mph with no wind protection is pretty scary. Cruises great at fast more legal speeds and is very comfortable on longer rides.
 

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Great bike for commuting in my limited experience, anything over 150 mph with no wind protection is pretty scary. Cruises great at fast more legal speeds and is very comfortable on longer rides.
I am looking for something to complement my R1200RT. I use that for touring, highways, cooler weather, etc... When it gets to be 100+ here in the summer or if I'm riding some canyons, it would be nice to have something smaller, lighter, and with little to no fairing so I can actually get some air. I demo'd the S1000R a couple of years ago and really liked it. At the same time I also rode the S1000XR, F800GS, and S1000rr. Recently I rode the F900R and F900XR and while they were fun, I they I'd be wanting more power pretty soon after bringing either one home.
 

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My 2014 RR has been nothing but reliable, I push It hard but maintain it properly and no issues with 18k and I can’t be any happier with it. Engine is superb as well as transmission. Only came with up shift however the downshift is effortless when you blip the throttle yourself, slips right in, because thats all the ecu does anyway and you can just duplicate it easily. Enough electronics but not overpowering that keep you in control.
Best bike I’ve had so far🙂 and can’t wait for every weekends.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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The torque and internal engine differences from the R and RR make it kind of its own platform. Please enjoy your rides whatever you chose.
 

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I am starting to shop for a used S1000R. I did a search for this information in the forum, but didn't find it. If there's already a topic on this, I'm sorry for the duplicate.

Are there any particular years to avoid because of inherent issues that were fixed later in the production run?

I know that in 2017 there was a slight increase in HP and it looks like the body panels changed slightly, but other than that any gotchas to look out for (e.g. "Avoid the 2014 because the <blah> is prone to early failure", etc...)

Are all of the 2014 - 2016 models the same aside from things like color?

Thanks for any info you can provide.
I just purchased a new 2020 S1000R HP and I am very happy but finding parts is proving difficult, whether, Rizzoma, Pazzo, GB Racing as the 2020 seems to be stuck in a limbo. Most parts were made for S1KR up to 2019. 2020 was modified ever so slightly so those parts (like levers)don’t fit. Now the 2021 is out and it is completely different. Quite frustrating for someone who loves to midify his bikes ( owned 5 Harleys in the past). Currently have a 2019 R 1250 GSA as well.
My advice, go with a low mileage 2019 if you can find one if you want to do any mods at all but if you keep your bike stock and prefer the look of the pre 2021 models (Unique and does not get lost in the crowd of Japanese bikes) go with a 2020. Budget is also a huge factor but dealers are motivated right now to move any 2019 and 2020s left in stock which also come with a bonus of having full warranties.
Hope this helps.
 

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I've ridden both old and newer R. The 14-16 doesn't have a auto blipper, and the quickshifter is "less" smooth in comparison with the 17 R and up.

Handlebars vibe a bit more on the older version.

The 17 and up have the updated RR frame for more flex and feel. But this only importand if you're a track junkie.

It al comes down to preference eventually, because you can't go wrong with either one. Personally i like the looks more of the newer R.
 
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I am starting to shop for a used S1000R. I did a search for this information in the forum, but didn't find it. If there's already a topic on this, I'm sorry for the duplicate.

Are there any particular years to avoid because of inherent issues that were fixed later in the production run?

I know that in 2017 there was a slight increase in HP and it looks like the body panels changed slightly, but other than that any gotchas to look out for (e.g. "Avoid the 2014 because the <blah> is prone to early failure", etc...)

Are all of the 2014 - 2016 models the same aside from things like color?

Thanks for any info you can provide.
Hey, I had a 2011 and a 2015. The 2011 was pretty much flawless, but the 2015 had a couple of issues:
1. Leaking rear shock - replaced under warranty by the dealer, in two hours, as I noticed the leak when I was race-prepping the bike, and they turned it around very fast by cannibalizing another 2015 they had there that was going back due to engine problems.
2. Cam chain issues. At about 11,000 miles, after 2-3 seasons of club racing, track days and heavy canyon road use, the cam chain developed a ticking sound and had to be replaced. By then the bike was one month OUT of warranty but after some crying, BMW decided to pay for it (thank you BMW, this was huge).
3. Cracked instrument panel. The panel developed a crack, it was changed under warranty.

And in BOTH models, I suffered from broken fairing tabs. Be advised that the fairing tabs are VERY flimsy and if you are taking them off and putting them back on frequently, and aren't super-duper careful... they will snap. And those are expensive parts. Again, thank you BMW for replacing my first set when they broke, and thank you to my dealer's chief mechanic for concocting a powerful epoxy mix to fix the others. And then the last time they were broken, it was the dealer mechanics that did it... so they were replaced at their expense. Advice: Check every little tab to make sure it's properly fixed. And do not torque them at all when putting it back together. Just hand tight.

Bottom line: I don't know of ANY other manufacturer that produces such a capable, track-ready (at least for us noobs) bike, that you can race and street-ride, and which has a three-year warranty that the brand will stand behind, come rain or shine, no excuses. YMMV, but this has been my experience.
 
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