BMW S1000RR Forum banner
21 - 28 of 28 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The right side engine fairing mount was bent from the impact and slide. Thankfully, it's a stamped steel piece and was easy to bend back in shape. The clutch cable wasn't as simple. The threaded portion of the cable that secures to the clutch bracket had also bent from impact. While the bike was shifting fine, as soon as I took the cable out of the bracket, I saw that the threaded portion of the cable had cracked all the way through where it had bent. Only a single thread on the adjustment nut was keeping it all together.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Light Automotive lighting


I straightened out the threaded portion and put it back together with a stainless steel M8x1.25 nut joining the two threaded pieces. I used the stock adjusting nut on the backside to lock it in place and keep the two ends together under compression (essentially a makeshift threaded coupling), and then put it all back together. After adjusting it a few times to ensure proper free play and then locking everything down tight, the clutch cable and engine fairing bracket was good to go.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Motorcycle Automotive design Tire


Next up, I need to try and fix the cracked but fully functional throttle tube.
Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire Steering part Automotive lighting


It seems BMW really doesn't want me to take this apart, as it has a tamper-proof non-reversing screw used to hold it together. But a new throttle tube is over $400, so I'd like to fix this rather than replace it if I can.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
One of the issues with crashing this bike, besides all the obvious suckage of crashing in general, is the stock clip-ons can damage the fork tubes. And unfortunately, my bike didn't escape this problem when it was knocked down on its right side. The bottom edge of the stock clip-on left a nice gouge in the right fork tube:
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Fuel tank Automotive fuel system


Thankfully the fork tube wasn't cracked, but it's definitely weaker. I would not expect it to survive another impact with the stock clip-ons, so I decided to replace them with clip-ons from Woodcraft. I used Woodcraft on my last bike, and really appreciate their simplicity and versatility. All the individual clip-on components can be ordered separately from Woodcraft, allowing you to change the rise or just replace individually damaged pieces as needed. Plus, Woodcraft uses a large clamping surface around the tube, so an impact to the bar ends distributes the resulting force across a much larger area than the OEM clip-on.

New clip-ons also means a new top triple. I went with TWM.

After removing the stock triple, I got out the Dremel and removed the tamper-proof bolts that secure the ignition by cutting large slots in the bolt heads and then turned them out with a flat head screwdriver:
Tool Gas Font Strap Personal protective equipment


The weight of the stock top triple:
Hand tool Tool Font Auto part Gadget


The weight of the TWM triple:
Light Gadget Communication Device Audio equipment Cameras & optics


And the weight of stock clip-ons:
Tool Gun barrel Office supplies Metal Compass


Woodcraft clip-on weight:
Revolver Gadget Gas Gun barrel Electronic device


So now I'm going to mock up the new clip-ons and adjust the rise and bar angles until I get it where I like it, and then drill the bars to mount the throttle and clutch grip assemblies. Once that's all back together with the new top triple in place, I've got some other parts lined up to install, including these little beauties that finally arrived:
Automotive design Grey Font Art Metal
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I decided to paint the top triple before installing it. I already planned to paint the bronze engine case covers and subframe a gunmetal gray color, simply because I don't care for the OEM bronze color, and thought the top triple would also look good in a gunmetal. I went with VHT new-cast gray, a paint I've used before with great results. This was no exception, as I think it turned out great.

After sanding, priming, painting, and then baking the TWM top triple:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Revolver Auto part


A little trick to installing top triple clamps is to use a floor jack to take some weight off the front forks. This brings the forks and steering stem into alignment, so you can easily get the top triple clamp to slide on.
Vehicle Fuel tank Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting


Another pro tip: Remember you're working on a BMW and not the Honda's you've previously wrenched on, so don't forget that the ignition on this bike is actually attached to the top triple and needs to be assembled and secured with some blue loctite before you put the top triple clamp back on. Doh. After pulling it off and sorting out that little mistake, it looks great:
Automotive tire Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive air manifold


While I had easy access, I also decided to install an Ohlins steering damper. I can't say this was a necessary upgrade, but it was on my list of parts I was curious about with several people at the track telling me it was a worthwhile upgrade to their ride, so I figured if I was going to do it anyways I might as well get it over with while I have the whole front end apart. Here it is after checking it and adjusting it a few times to make sure it wasn't running out of stroke in either direction, and getting it all torqued down to spec:
Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive lighting Motor vehicle


I also weighed it and the ZF unit that comes stock. The Ohlins weighs just 2.5 oz more than the ZF, and provides 18 nice, easily detectable 'clicks' of damping settings. Ohlins recommends starting off with 10 back from full firm, but I went back 14 for street riding. Hopefully, I'll have a chance to check out that setting soon enough, and I'll experiment with it at the track and adjust it up as needed.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The Woodcraft side-mount clip-ons require all the hand controls to be mounted at least 5.5cm outboard from the fork tube. The bars are long enough to accommodate this, so measuring from each bar end and mounting the throttle and clutch grips the same distance as they are stock, the grips move outboard from the fork tube about 5.5cm and sit flush with the bar ends. The problem is, the clutch cable won't stretch that far, and neither will the throttle controls cable. Sliding them inboard as far as possible still makes the controls sit about 30mm outboard from stock and stretches the clutch and throttle control cables to the absolute max. I wasn't comfortable with this. The only solution is to lower the clip-ons further down the fork tube, which provides a little more slack but moves the controls further away than I wanted.

So I went back to drawing board and looked at other options. I considered the Gilles and Alpha Racing clip-ons, both of which would ave worked but placed the bars lower and further away than I wanted. I eventually found a set of Heli-Bar Tracstar clip-ons for a 2014-2018 S1000RR. Normally, these wouldn't work with a 2020+ model, but I have a TWM top triple clamp in place of the stock triple clamp, so these do fit and place the clip-on pretty much where I wanted them.
Fuel tank Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motorcycle Vehicle


The bars are solid aluminum, not hollow, so they're a little heavier than I expected but still lighter than stock.
Gadget Auto part Cable Wire Carbon


The next step is to find some 2014-2018 bar ends. I also received my Ti engine case bolts from Pro-Bolt, so I can now pull off the clutch and stator cover and paint them the same Nu-cast gray as I did the triple clamp and then mount them back up with the new Ti hardware.
 

· Registered
2022 S1000RR M Package, 2012 1199 Panigale, 2014 KTM 500 EXC Supermoto
Joined
·
3 Posts
Wow. Glad to hear you're ok man. That's quite a story and amazing you didn't sustain more injuries. I'll def be looking into that A* vest for protection on the street and the track.
 
21 - 28 of 28 Posts
Top