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Back to the subject. The missing link here is beside -1 on front sprocket, making wheel base slightly longer (7mm without affecting turning), keeps bike stable. Avoids issues Aaron mentioned. At first when I put 520 kit, 120 link chain, I disliked wheel base being longer. After talking to some racers the verdict was that a slightly longer wheel base is desirable for both acceleration and braking. The pros outweighs the cons (slower turning). You guys agree?

I track my bike with few friends who are on stock gearing. They're all experienced riders and my bike is noticeably faster with -1 in the front. Straight line speed I'm ahead of my friends by 2-3 bike length up to 3rd gear. I have not tried beyond that because I'm already too far ahead by then. So -1 does make the bike faster if whole RPM range is considered like Elk said.
For the wheelbase, that's personal preference, but you're right about the consequences.

Your gearing is not what made your bike quicker. Unless you're pro level, and tuning your gearing to a specific track. Meaning you're coming off corners at 9,000rpm stock, and sprockets changed that to 10 or 11. Then that'll help, but only until the competition hits 10ish on their bikes, then you're equal. Your 520 conversion, wheelbase changes, or any other number of things are why your bike is quicker.

I never said more power won't help. It certainly will as soon as your front tire comes back down and you can use the additional power. Comparing MotoGP bikes to ours isn't exactly fair considering they can, and do, change things that affect wheelie prevention (Aero, wheelbase, weight distribution). You would have the fastest bike at any track with those bigass winglets they use.
 

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Like I said, the bike isn't any quicker, it just feels quicker.
This is true only if one applies an extremely limited definition of quicker; that is, maximum RPM and full throttle at all times resulting in traction issues - such as drag racing.

This is a very small part of riding, even when riding aggressively. The rest of the time, the bike is in fact quicker with lower gearing. That is, it accelerates faster in a given situation. This is quicker.

Think of it this way: the bike is not always losing traction at every RPM in every gear. Lower gearing lets you get to the high RPM where traction becomes a problem in less time; i.e., you get there more quickly.

As I mentioned, proper gearing leads to lower lap times. If this is not quicker, I do not know what is. :)
 

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When I ride up Pike's Peak, the last 3-4000 ft I no longer have traction or wheelie problems in 1st. That's the only place I've found.
Have you been up this year? Is the snow gone completely? I'm looking out my window and I don't see any. But, last year I thought it was all gone and it wasn't.
 

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You're telling me at wide open throttle, leaned over coming out of a corner you have plenty of traction?

You're delusional. Because of the 10 corners at my local track, that DTC light is flashing on all 10. And that's at 5,000ft altitude.

If you have plenty of traction, then your front wheel is coming up, and it's the same as if you didn't have traction. But there's no way, barring aero or weight changes, that you're able to put 199hp down effectively in 1st, or 2nd for that matter.

When I ride up Pike's Peak, the last 3-4000 ft I no longer have traction or wheelie problems in 1st. That's the only place I've found.
Really? At Pueblo your DTC light is on at every turn? You should probably change your DTC settings to be less intrusive. Maybe lean off the bike more so you can have a larger contact patch from the rear tire. This is probably a slick vs street tire situation though.
I ride in race mode on my 2013 and DTC only activates when my slicks are near then end of their life or if I am trying to ride at 110%.:wink2:
 

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Really? At Pueblo your DTC light is on at every turn? You should probably change your DTC settings to be less intrusive. Maybe lean off the bike more so you can have a larger contact patch from the rear tire. This is probably a slick vs street tire situation though.
I ride in race mode on my 2013 and DTC only activates when my slicks are near then end of their life or if I am trying to ride at 110%.:wink2:

How quick does DTC initiate? I know DTC acts different through the settings. I got the bike a few days ago and I'm not feeling like I should push a 110% already. I mean would you really need to try your best to flip the bike over in race mode?
 

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DTC initiates instantly, so there is no delay. Everything in the bike is driven by the ECU including the throttle i.e. the fuel injectors. The moment the sensors on the wheal slip past the threshold, the DTC retarder reduces power until the wheel is within the threshold again.

Each mode has a different percentage of slip allowed and can also be tuned +/-7. Each notch is half a percent I believe. So if "0" in Race mode is 10% slippage, then you can set the retarder to begin after 13.5% (-7) down to only 6.5% (+7) of slip.

There was a topic here somewhere that had a table of each mode, but I can't find it. I don't recall how many times a second the actual wheel sensors update, but it's so fast that it's not significant.
 

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I don't recall how many times a second the actual wheel sensors update, but it's so fast that it's not significant.
For example if speed is 100 kmh; front wheel sensor gives about 708 pulses per second. Two pulses is about 0,0028 seconds. Rear 662/0,0030.
I dont know what the actual DTC-calculation rate of the ECU software is, but I would guess that it is at least 100 times per second.
 
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