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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed the block off plates and removed the charcoal canister while I was at it. The one hose I can't figure out what to do with is the small gray hose that attaches from the right rear of the throttle bodies around the right of the bodies to the canister.


What are you guys doing with this, I've searched, I can't find the info on here!!!:mad:
 

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I was going to just put a "T" in line with the tubing that goes to the left. So, on the right, I would have the two lines connecting to the "T" and then going to the left and then connecting to the second "T" here.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So is the tube coming off the throttle body for gas headed toward the charcoal canister or toward the throttle body?

If it is for fluid(over flow) flowing from the throttle bodies then I'll just run it to the belly pan no big deal but if it was for some type of inward flow to the throttle bodies then a plug would be a better solution, no?
 

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Seemed to me that the two on the right were draining into the canister and the one on the left draining to the ground. So, I was just going to keep the flow in that direction, but I obviously know as much about it as you. :confused:

I was curious as to why the left gas vent didn't enter that evap canister.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Come on, there has to be someone with a definitive answer here, hook the manual man up people!!

Is the question so stupid that no one wants to take the time to answer the question?

Let me ask a couple questions to set up a better answer to come along hopefully.

The two little ports coming off the front of the tank, one going straight to the ground(left side) and one going to the canister on the right side. What are each of these ports purposes, is one for fluid and one for vapors?

Then the gray hose coming off the back right side of the throttle body was going to the same side of the canister as the right port on the front of the tank.

Because in the end if both the tubes or port and tube coming from the right side tank and throttle body are vapor then I'll just remove the hoses and not think twice but if it's fluid it's another story.
 

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I haven't research this at all, but it would seem the one hose from the front of the tank (to the ground) would be the overflow drain in case you overfilled the tank, or maybe if fresh fuel expanded after filling a hot tank too full. The other one is the tank vent hose to the charcoal canister, and the hose from the throttle body would likely be a vacuum line to the charcoal canister, or a check valved vent to the canister.

I'd send the hose connecting the fuel tank to the canister to the ground, along with the other one that already does, and plug the line coming from the throttle body (or cap it at the throttle body if possible). Whether its a vent or vacuum line shouldn't matter imho.

Then again I could be way out there :rolleyes:, but suspect this is close without looking.
 

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cloudy is correct.

The one line that goes to the ground is overflow. Leave that line there. The one going to the charcoal canister you can simply remove. The tank can vent just as easily from the up at the top as it can from a tube going to the ground.

The line going from the canister to the throttle bodies is to suck the vapors that may have accumulated from the tank venting to the combustion chamber. There is a servo actuated check valve in-line that sits to the right side of the air-box (lower side). This is opened by the ECU when the engine reaches operating temperature allowing the vapors in the canister to be sucked into the combustion chamber. You can plug them any way you want. Just make sure not to leave any air leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Stupid question,

would it be advisable to connect the venting port of the tank to the hose going to the throttle bodies or would that create a vacuum of some sort?
 

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I wouldn't as I'd believe you'd be applying "manifold vacuum" to the fuel tank via the vent hose. Not certain without looking, but I doubt there is another air vent to the tank (may be a backup relief valve built into the gas cap for all I know) so if the fuel pump can deliver fuel to keep the engine running long enough as vacuum builds, there may be a chance you'd collapse the fuel tank which would likely ruin your day.:eek:. Even if not, you'd probably run "rich" just from dropping the vapor pressure on the fuel and evaporating/vaporizing it faster.

Then again, maybe not.

Cloudy
 

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I'm done until I actually look at my bike tomorrow to see what's really there, as I want to get rid of the evap control system anyway. Sounds like there are more hoses being talked about than the three mentioned earlier when I jumped in here (overflow/vent/throttle body).

'till tomorrow afternoon;)

Cloudy
 

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As I mentioned earlier, I'd run the vent to the ground along with the overflow line, and cap the throttle body connection or plug its' line, whichever is easiest and most reliable. Need to put a new lift pump on my diesel PU today, and if I get time will look at the bike to get a first hand look at the hoses, etc.

Cloudy
 

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My take on Canisterectomies

FWIW - Today I removed the charcoal canister and rerouted the lines as shown below. The best reason I could come up with to even remove it is to gain a little more room for changing the spark plugs, as weight loss was almost nothing.

Tank Connections:
1. the left hose from the tank is an overflow that goes to the ground. This hose was left alone.
2. the right hose is the tank vent that goes to the charcoal canister. This hose was removed entirely as I didn't want to cut it (the canister end is larger that the tank vent end, check the last thumbnail), and I wanted to keep it original in case I ever wanted to reinstall the system. I used a spare piece of the proper size hose to connect the tank vent to a "tee" I put in the overflow line after it went vertical (to minimize the chance overflow could get into the vent line) as shown below.


Other Canister Connections:
The left side hose from the Charcoal canister is its atmospheric connection (vent/drain/whatever), and it exits to the left thru some plastic, then "tees" to a hose running to the ground, and another that makes a short hop over, then vertical, and is just open to the atmosphere (just behind an electrical connector). I left this hose alone, and didn't try to save weight buy removing it ;) (again I want to retain the ability to reconnect everything if I want). You might be able to see it in this photo (look closely where the spot of a red wire is visible):


The third hose from the charcoal canister (on the right next to the vent connection) runs to what I assume is basically an electrically controlled NC (normally closed) valve that ties it into a hose system that connects to all four throttle bodies (not just one). Since BMW's repair manuals are sorely lacking in so many ways, I made the assumption that this valve likely opens prior to starting, and possibly stays open for a bit post-shutdown (until the entire Canbus system powers down), to prevent fugitive emissions from poisoning our atmosphere. (Still trying to wrap my head around having all four throttle bodies tied together this way, but that's another subject).

Based on these assumptions I decided to remove the control valve and the hose that ran to the canister, then installed a piece of steel rod and a clamp to plug the throttle bodies connection as shown in the next photo (I did tie up the removed electrical connector post-photo):


fwiw I considered leaving the control valve installed and capping the other side, but unless my GS911 shows a stored code, I saw no other indication that its' removal was an issue in any way. The bike starts and sounds the same, although I now can pick up the faint sent of gas vapors when I shut it off that weren't there before. It now smells like a motorcycle at least :D

I'll probably check for stored codes tomorrow just for grins, but I think it will work fine this way. The only other plus I can think of with even doing this canisterectomy, other than having a little better spark plug access, is that the control valve can't somehow stick in the "ON" position when it shouldn't and put the throttle body vacuum to atmosphere, as that can't be good. I highly doubt the control valve could even fail that way as I assume its spring closed, but I'm looking for reasons to do this in the first place :confused:.

I made a few assumptions getting to this point, so if anyone has better info or other suggestions, let 'er fly.

Cloudy
 

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why not connect the vent hose directly to the throttle bodies? It'll run a bit rich whenever the valve opens, but it is also a pressure relief. I pulled the canister off my Ducati, and now I have an issue of the tank building pressure on hot days.

I can't remember how the hoses were routed on my 2010 bike, which was Euro-spec and didn't have that idiot canister. Wish I did...
 

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Installed my driven block off plates today and decided to remove the canister as well. Auto part Personal protective equipment Fuel line Engine

Auto part Suspension Metal


The one hose that comes off the left side of the canister I removed completely as it was just a vent/drain hose. There are 2 hoses off of the right side of the canister. One hose leading to the throttle bodies, I capped that hose
Auto part Engine Fuel line Vehicle Automotive engine part


The other hose was a vent for the tank. What I did with that was I'm going to leave the one end connected to the tank and I hooked it up with a T-connector to the vent hose off the other side that hooks to the tank as well
Engine Auto part Vehicle Automotive engine part Car



So as you can kinda see in this last picture both open ends of the hoses will connect to the tank and vent out the hose down the side of the radiator

Vehicle Auto part Engine Car Bumper


Can someone tell me before I put the tank back on and start it up is this ok to do? Is it ok to plug that hose coming from the throttle bodies or should I have routed that hose down the side and left it open as a vent/drain hose??




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