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6k mile oil change complete. Shell Rotella T6 and Bosch 3330 Oil filter. Now, im just waiting on the GS911 so I can reset the maintenance interval.
Quick note: I bought the 779 wrench tool Plews 70-779 [Misc.] [Misc.] [Misc.] [Misc.] [Misc.] [Misc.] [Misc.] [Misc.] - Amazon.com and it was too big for the filter that was on there which was a 779. Luckily I have had experience with using screwdriver to loosen filter before...
Nearest BMW dealership is 2 hours away. Did you have any issue whatsoever with the Bosch 3330 oil filter? Bosch obviously makes a superior product. Quite frankly, there are really only a few filter manufacturers. Bosch, Mann+Hummel, Goehner etc....are all very good quality and use the better filter media.

Just want to be sure the 3330 is appropriate media/flow-pressure etc... for the 2015 s1000rr.
 

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Stubborn oil filters

A little trick I came up with out of desperation, and after many clamps, straps etc that just spin when trying to remove the super tight OEM - installed filter is this.


Get some thick, permanent 3M, double sided sticky tape (red and grey when red is removed) wrap your filter with it and remove the red piece .

At this point just about any thing will pry that som'bish right off. :grin2:
 

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Well, I used this quick oil drain from alpha. alpha Racing Oil Drain Valve Kit for BMW S1000 RR - HP4 – alpha Performance
No more crush washers no more torque etc. also if you half to dump a little oil its a snap.
Does the Alpha quick drain have a chip magnet?
I am looking at picking up one of these and was wondering the same thing. I doubt that it does have a magnet, or it would probably get plugged up. So you may not get all the metal shavings out when you change the oil. Seems like the only real downside to it, other than the price.

Does anyone else use the Alpha drain valve?
 

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A little trick I came up with out of desperation, and after many clamps, straps etc that just spin when trying to remove the super tight OEM - installed filter is this.


Get some thick, permanent 3M, double sided sticky tape (red and grey when red is removed) wrap your filter with it and remove the red piece .

At this point just about any thing will pry that som'bish right off. :grin2:
Necessity is the mother of all invention. Good one here.
 

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I am looking at picking up one of these and was wondering the same thing. I doubt that it does have a magnet, or it would probably get plugged up. So you may not get all the metal shavings out when you change the oil. Seems like the only real downside to it, other than the price.

Does anyone else use the Alpha drain valve?
Looks like you can buy this directly from the manufacturer for a lot less ($66.80 vs $94.80). Just need to verify that this is the correct thread size.
http://www.stahlbus-us.com/oil-drain-valve/special/stahlbus-oil-drain-valve-m16x15x12mm-steel-set-plus-racing-cap.html
 

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I bought the oil filter wrench tool from my dealer. Yeah, it was a little pricey, but I always use the right tool for the job if I can get it.
 

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I am looking at picking up one of these and was wondering the same thing. I doubt that it does have a magnet, or it would probably get plugged up. So you may not get all the metal shavings out when you change the oil. Seems like the only real downside to it, other than the price.

Does anyone else use the Alpha drain valve?
Finally got this installed and safety wired.
 

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KN 160 or KN164 for s1000rr Holes for safety wire?

I see both listed and would like to buy the one that A) fits easily and B) has more filter material. Do they both have the bolt head that is predrilled for safety wire?
 

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I am looking at picking up one of these and was wondering the same thing. I doubt that it does have a magnet, or it would probably get plugged up. So you may not get all the metal shavings out when you change the oil. Seems like the only real downside to it, other than the price.

Does anyone else use the Alpha drain valve?
Finally got this installed and safety wired.
Where do you have the other end wired too from the drain plug? There's a part of the oil pan on my 2013 model that looks similar but it's not threaded. And I've always wanted to try threading it which it looks like where you have yours wired up too.
Thanks in advance
 

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Nice to have all the following info in one place... let me know if I need to add/modify etc. The following is based on my experience; the torque ratings were provided from the BMW Service Manual Software ;):

  • Change oil with the bike warmed up - oil drains much better.
  • Book says it should take 3.9L of oil w/filter change... closer to 3.5L or even a hair less was my experience. Remember you should be checking the level of oil AFTER the bike has been run and at normal operating temperature (see pg 105 of owner's manual). You should NOT be checking the level with a cold bike (you may think you have enough oil in the bike when it's actually low - with a cold bike)!
  • Oil Filters - Initially BMW was selling the 779 (11427 721 779) (same filter for K1200 or K1300?) filter for the S1000RR even though it came from the factory with a 541 (11427 673 541).
  • BMW straightened that out and is now selling the 541 for the S1000RR
  • Difference between the two Filters : 779 is about 3/8" longer (slightly more capacity) AND the end of the 779 oil filter fits a normal "B" type filter socket for removing and installing. This is good because the 541 has an end on it that appears to take a special filter socket (pic shown below - Part# 83300 401 554). If you don't care about properly torquing the filter to 11Nm, no biggie. Historically I haven't worried about it, but if I can - why not do it (torque it properly). Personally, I'm using the 779's since they have a friendlier filter end that fits the B-type filter socket, they have more capacity, and it's what was sold to me initially from the BMW dealer.
  • Much easier to do the oil change with the left lower fairing removed - pretty easy removal (2 bolts on the front near the radiator, 5 bolts on the side, 2 bolts on the underside)
  • Put a little aluminum foil under the filter to funnel the oil away from the headers and O2 sensors while removing the existing filter - works great, no mess.
  • Replace crush washer each time the oil plug is removed (Part # 07119 963 252).
  • Oil Filter Torque - 11Nm
  • Oil Pan Plug Torque - 28Nm


I use the kn-164 filter. Does that work or no? And how do you measure how much torque to apply.
 

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Nice to have all the following info in one place... let me know if I need to add/modify etc. The following is based on my experience; the torque ratings were provided from the BMW Service Manual Software ;):

  • Change oil with the bike warmed up - oil drains much better.
  • Book says it should take 3.9L of oil w/filter change... closer to 3.5L or even a hair less was my experience. Remember you should be checking the level of oil AFTER the bike has been run and at normal operating temperature (see pg 105 of owner's manual). You should NOT be checking the level with a cold bike (you may think you have enough oil in the bike when it's actually low - with a cold bike)!
  • Oil Filters - Initially BMW was selling the 779 (11427 721 779) (same filter for K1200 or K1300?) filter for the S1000RR even though it came from the factory with a 541 (11427 673 541).
  • BMW straightened that out and is now selling the 541 for the S1000RR
  • Difference between the two Filters : 779 is about 3/8" longer (slightly more capacity) AND the end of the 779 oil filter fits a normal "B" type filter socket for removing and installing. This is good because the 541 has an end on it that appears to take a special filter socket (pic shown below - Part# 83300 401 554). If you don't care about properly torquing the filter to 11Nm, no biggie. Historically I haven't worried about it, but if I can - why not do it (torque it properly). Personally, I'm using the 779's since they have a friendlier filter end that fits the B-type filter socket, they have more capacity, and it's what was sold to me initially from the BMW dealer.
  • Much easier to do the oil change with the left lower fairing removed - pretty easy removal (2 bolts on the front near the radiator, 5 bolts on the side, 2 bolts on the underside)
  • Put a little aluminum foil under the filter to funnel the oil away from the headers and O2 sensors while removing the existing filter - works great, no mess.
  • Replace crush washer each time the oil plug is removed (Part # 07119 963 252).
  • Oil Filter Torque - 11Nm
  • Oil Pan Plug Torque - 28Nm
Great info!! Quick question…
What happens if you don't replace the crush washer after removing the drain bolt?? ?
 

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An observation I made the other day on mine is that with the bike idling on the side stand the oil level is very close to what it is with the bike off and stood up. I wouldn't use that as gospel to check oil level. But it's a neat coincidence
 

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What Is A GS-911?

If you buy the GS-911 you can do it yourself (reset the oil change interval mileage and date)... 5 or 6 more oil changes ($50ea for computer reset) and you've paid for the GS-911 ;)

Could you tell me about a GS-911 as I am not familiar with that item.

What is the cost of a GS-911 and where can I buy it.

Thanks for the help!
 

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The GS-911

Information is here.

Buy it from one of the forum vendors who carry them.
Thanks for the information!

I checked the site - the units are only good for up to model year 2014. Since my machine is a 2016 I can only hope they will soon upgrade the system to work with the newer machines. I will call them soon to find out the latest info.

Thanks again for the information!

...UPDATE

I went back and looked over the information and found that the Gen II model does support the newer machines.

Please excuse my dysfunction!

Thanks again for your HELP!
 

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Could you tell me about a GS-911 as I am not familiar with that item.

What is the cost of a GS-911 and where can I buy it.

Thanks for the help!
You can find them here > https://www.motomillion.com/collections/bmw-s1000rr/products/hexcode-gs-911-wifi-diagnostic-tool-for-bmw

We have them in stock and delivery is usually 1-3 business days within USA.

The GS-911 is a diagnostic tool for BMW motorcycles. You can do a lot with it, including Read and clear Diagnostic Fault Codes, show ECU information, reset Service Reminders, Adaptation Reset and Relearn, ABS Bleed, Test, perform Component Function Tests and even Recalibrate the Idle Actuation of your BMW motorcycle with the GS-911 Wifi from Hexcode.

The WiFi model (which is the Generation 2 unit) is compatible with all recent BMW models including all S1000RR, S1000XR, S1000R and HP4 models.
 

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Nice to have all the following info in one place... let me know if I need to add/modify etc. The following is based on my experience; the torque ratings were provided from the BMW Service Manual Software ;):

  • Change oil with the bike warmed up - oil drains much better.
  • Book says it should take 3.9L of oil w/filter change... closer to 3.5L or even a hair less was my experience. Remember you should be checking the level of oil AFTER the bike has been run and at normal operating temperature (see pg 105 of owner's manual). You should NOT be checking the level with a cold bike (you may think you have enough oil in the bike when it's actually low - with a cold bike)!
  • Oil Filters - Initially BMW was selling the 779 (11427 721 779) (same filter for K1200 or K1300?) filter for the S1000RR even though it came from the factory with a 541 (11427 673 541).
  • BMW straightened that out and is now selling the 541 for the S1000RR
  • Difference between the two Filters : 779 is about 3/8" longer (slightly more capacity) AND the end of the 779 oil filter fits a normal "B" type filter socket for removing and installing. This is good because the 541 has an end on it that appears to take a special filter socket (pic shown below - Part# 83300 401 554). If you don't care about properly torquing the filter to 11Nm, no biggie. Historically I haven't worried about it, but if I can - why not do it (torque it properly). Personally, I'm using the 779's since they have a friendlier filter end that fits the B-type filter socket, they have more capacity, and it's what was sold to me initially from the BMW dealer.
  • Much easier to do the oil change with the left lower fairing removed - pretty easy removal (2 bolts on the front near the radiator, 5 bolts on the side, 2 bolts on the underside)
  • Put a little aluminum foil under the filter to funnel the oil away from the headers and O2 sensors while removing the existing filter - works great, no mess.
  • Replace crush washer each time the oil plug is removed (Part # 07119 963 252).
  • Oil Filter Torque - 11Nm
  • Oil Pan Plug Torque - 28Nm




Is this normal? I got 18k miles and keep getting metal on the oil pan screw



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