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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Nice to have all the following info in one place... let me know if I need to add/modify etc. The following is based on my experience; the torque ratings were provided from the BMW Service Manual Software ;):

  • Change oil with the bike warmed up - oil drains much better.
  • Book says it should take 3.9L of oil w/filter change... closer to 3.5L or even a hair less was my experience. Remember you should be checking the level of oil AFTER the bike has been run and at normal operating temperature (see pg 105 of owner's manual). You should NOT be checking the level with a cold bike (you may think you have enough oil in the bike when it's actually low - with a cold bike)!
  • Oil Filters - Initially BMW was selling the 779 (11427 721 779) (same filter for K1200 or K1300?) filter for the S1000RR even though it came from the factory with a 541 (11427 673 541).
  • BMW straightened that out and is now selling the 541 for the S1000RR
  • Difference between the two Filters : 779 is about 3/8" longer (slightly more capacity) AND the end of the 779 oil filter fits a normal "B" type filter socket for removing and installing. This is good because the 541 has an end on it that appears to take a special filter socket (pic shown below - Part# 83300 401 554). If you don't care about properly torquing the filter to 11Nm, no biggie. Historically I haven't worried about it, but if I can - why not do it (torque it properly). Personally, I'm using the 779's since they have a friendlier filter end that fits the B-type filter socket, they have more capacity, and it's what was sold to me initially from the BMW dealer.
  • Much easier to do the oil change with the left lower fairing removed - pretty easy removal (2 bolts on the front near the radiator, 5 bolts on the side, 2 bolts on the underside)
  • Put a little aluminum foil under the filter to funnel the oil away from the headers and O2 sensors while removing the existing filter - works great, no mess.
  • Replace crush washer each time the oil plug is removed (Part # 07119 963 252).
  • Oil Filter Torque - 11Nm
  • Oil Pan Plug Torque - 28Nm
 

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Hi.

I,m going to have 600 miles, also i,m going to do the oil change, save some money.tell me wich oil synthetic or normal, 10w40 is ok.

Thanks

rafael
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I bought CASTROL OIL POWER RS R4 5W40, one of the few I could find that has the JASO MA2 rating... which BMW recommends. JASO MA2 rating is a new rating that supercedes the JASO MA rating... now they have an MA1 and MA2... Couldn't ever figure out what the difference was all about or if it is another "snake oil" gimmick...

Got it here --> https://www.powersportsuperstore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TR43-0165
 

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HEY.

I WENT TO THE DEALER I TOLD THEM I,M A MECHANIC SO I DID THE OIL CHANGE BY MY SELF, TO UNLOOCK THE COMPUTER THEY CHARGE ME 50. WHAt DO YOU THINK
 

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Discussion Starter #5
HEY.

I WENT TO THE DEALER I TOLD THEM I,M A MECHANIC SO I DID THE OIL CHANGE BY MY SELF, TO UNLOOCK THE COMPUTER THEY CHARGE ME 50. WHAt DO YOU THINK
If you buy the GS-911 you can do it yourself (reset the oil change interval mileage and date)... 5 or 6 more oil changes ($50ea for computer reset) and you've paid for the GS-911 ;)
 

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I bought CASTROL OIL POWER RS R4 5W40, one of the few I could find that has the JASO MA2 rating... which BMW recommends. JASO MA2 rating is a new rating that supercedes the JASO MA rating... now they have an MA1 and MA2... Couldn't ever figure out what the difference was all about or if it is another "snake oil" gimmick...

Got it here --> https://www.powersportsuperstore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TR43-0165

I bought the same sh1t (Castrol 4T but 10W50 - it does not get that cold here :)) but mine is bottled locally and it has a JASO MA rating...I don't give a toss, it's going into the bike.

P.S. It cost me about $45 for 4 litres.

N.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
D,
Do you have a part # for the special tool (filter socket) that may be required for the 541 filter?
Let me look into it... should have an answer for ya in a bit...

PS: Thanks for posting the OP. Very helpful thread.
No sweat... I find myself quickly referencing back to the OP myself to get the torque numbers.
 

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Has anybody used an ordinary strap wrench on the filter? It appears access is reasonably good for this. I've never torqued a oil filter in changing hundreds of them (just get it as tight as I can by hand), and never had any issue, so I'm not feeling compelled to be able to use a torque wrench.

- Mark
 

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Has anybody used an ordinary strap wrench on the filter? It appears access is reasonably good for this. I've never torqued a oil filter in changing hundreds of them (just get it as tight as I can by hand), and never had any issue, so I'm not feeling compelled to be able to use a torque wrench.

- Mark
Hand tight has always worked for me. 'Course, always need a wrench to get 'em off.
 

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Max BMW in New Hampshire sells one similar for $34.00 for the 541 filter. I just bought it and it is very high quality , almost looks like a billet piece that is polished. Nice.
 

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Whoa! Wait a minute! Are you telling me I can’t just change the oil on this bike? That I have to ride all the way to the dealer and pay them some ridiculous $ to re-set the computer? Or buy some $300 gizmo to take care of it myself? And that I need a f$%^&*ing $100 wrench to change the filter?
 

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Whoa! Wait a minute! Are you telling me I can’t just change the oil on this bike? That I have to ride all the way to the dealer and pay them some ridiculous $ to re-set the computer? Or buy some $300 gizmo to take care of it myself? And that I need a f$%^&*ing $100 wrench to change the filter?
Sounds about right, except the wrench part where I use a cheap strap wrench from Harbor Freight. Tighten by hand and then add another 1/8 turn with the strap.

The manual seems to suggest some time interval. Owner's book quote, pg. 162: "BMW Service is carried out once a year."

On page 162, it also mentions, "The service display in the multi-function display reminds you of the next service date approx. one month or 600 miles (1000 km) before the entered values" (I assume those values are in the ECU or the dealer has control via their software?). I doubt if anyone has hit that one-year date yet, but no doubt someone is going to chime in and ask: "How do I turn it off?"

GS-911 maybe? If not, Mr. Dealer lifts your wallet - or just put black electrical tape over it and ignore it. Maybe just buy the oil and filter from him at list price and ask "If he will reset the light for free once you get done?" (ha!).

I'm sort of surprised they stretch it out to a year now. Maybe they got hammered about high service costs so much they've stretched it out. My car is every 6,000 miles with synthetic so maybe they figured very few will run the bike that distance in a year to break-down the oil?


Mack
 

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the oil filter only goes on as tight as you can manage by hand, theres no need for a special wrench to get it off, just use a pair of open jaw pliers, or failing that skewer it with a screwdriver.



I've also re-used crush washers with no probs for about 10 oil changes (every 5k km on the VFR)... but they are so cheap, I just keep forgetting to get them.
 
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