BMW S1000RR Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well I finally got the Sprint filter out. I had the p-08 installed until I realized It was "flowing" more than I cared for after moving out here to AZ. For those that don't know last time I did my oil change, I checked the air box and found A LOT of dust and dirt coating the inside of my air box.

I won't fault the filter there, that's its job. Since I'm not racing and don't have an engine rebuild budget I don't need that 3-5 HP so I went back to the stock air filter. I'll be checking that also next oil change to see how well it filters out AZ air.

BUT.... as for durability Sprint filter FAILS. I took some pictures to show how it's holding up roughly two years after purchase (and use), it's not looking good. comparing OEM to Sprint. The OEM is very stiff, It does not collapse in on the sides. I found my Sprint filter collapsed in the first time I checked it out here in AZ, So I reinstalled it made sure the outside borders weren't collapsed and went about my day. It was properly installed the first time, so after awhile of thinking, seeing the collapsed sides, and all the particulate matter making it into the air box I said
nuh uh. It's coming out and I went back to stock. While it was out I noticed the soft rubber material had started tearing from the body of the air filter, that's another ding for Sprint.

I guess all that to say If your racing and you need the edge go for it. I'd still keep an eye on it. If your on the streets using the bike as track bike and daily rider, It may not be worth the longevity of your motor. I paid a lot for this bike and I plan on keeping it a long time. I don't need a new engine prematurely.
 

Attachments

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
4,587 Posts
You email sprint, send pics, see what they say. Their filters are supposed to be lifetime.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
4,587 Posts
They have a newer version for both street and track. Supposed to be better, so maybe ask for a replacement.

I think the bigger issue is the RR air intake design.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
647 Posts
https://m.facebook.com/groups/483264025078405?view=permalink&id=2150304568374334 So we were at the dealer and a customer had to have an engine rebuilt from excess dirt getting past the filter. He had a sprint filter and it started to bow at the sides since they don’t have structural support. Kinda worried me, so decided to check the bikes out since we’re running sprint filters on all the bikes... sure enough they’re bowed in too with tons of dirt passing through. ��
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
After mate pointed out how much dust/pollen/dirt/whatever was in his air box so I inspected mine & so did another mate & all our air boxes are filthy (we all bought sprint road filters). There are dirt roads we ride on now & again which aren't planned as road work & my filter had zero bowing it was fitted correctly. I use my bike for road & truly not impressed with the sprint filter, I don't care how fine the material passing through the filter there is always a chance damage is occurring. I have changed back to OEM for peace of mind & the Sprint filter can go in the garbage, there should be a warning especially on the road filter it will pass whatever micron partials through.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
radio silence

hmmmm so far no reply from Sprint. I sent them an email last week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,616 Posts
Sorry to hear everyone with these potentially engine-damaging issues....which wouldn't be covered under warranty. I never had an issue with K&N filters in the decades I used them, but decided to stick with OEM as it was Mahle who made this nice, quality OEM filter. Glad I stuck with stock, and glad you exposed this issue here to warn others!

Best of luck to you guys!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Sorry to hear everyone with these potentially engine-damaging issues....which wouldn't be covered under warranty. I never had an issue with K&N filters in the decades I used them, but decided to stick with OEM as it was Mahle who made this nice, quality OEM filter. Glad I stuck with stock, and glad you exposed this issue here to warn others!

Best of luck to you guys!
yeah I definitely switched back to stock. hopefully what ever dust/dirt got in didn't cause a problem (fingers crossed that OEM oil filter sifts that stuff out). I just hit ~19k miles and finished up my 520 conversion. took it out for a ride in the canyons today and out towards the mines.

Got some random pics just to show the work. If anybody has any opinions about the rivet job say something, I'm all ears. My first chain replacement I ever did for a motorcycle. Ended up going AL rear sprocket +2. really like the pep it put in her step off the line and not to noticeable top end loss.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,616 Posts
yeah I definitely switched back to stock. hopefully what ever dust/dirt got in didn't cause a problem (fingers crossed that OEM oil filter sifts that stuff out). I just hit ~19k miles and finished up my 520 conversion. took it out for a ride in the canyons today and out towards the mines.

Got some random pics just to show the work. If anybody has any opinions about the rivet job say something, I'm all ears. My first chain replacement I ever did for a motorcycle. Ended up going AL rear sprocket +2. really like the pep it put in her step off the line and not to noticeable top end loss.
Sadly, if the dust/dirt your engine has ingested has made it past the rings and into your oil you ALREADY have a major engine issue (low compression/lots of blowby). While it's always good to have fresh oil and filter, hopefully the dust went elsewhere. Damage from that is usually increased ring/piston/cylinder wear and loss of compression, and possible extra valve guide and seat wear. I'd pull the airbox and clean it and the rubber boots to the head and as much of the intake as you can while being careful to to break loose any grunge that has adhered to any of that so it doesn't get eaten.

Looks like the swages are a little off center. the key things are to not crush the o-ring or x-ring, to get even compression, and to not split the rivets by swaging them too much. I always use a thickness gage, measure the gap in links nearby, and sllllooooowwwwly swage the pics until the gap is the same. Takes a bit, but I typically get 20-25k out of my sets, so. Also, and I can;t stress this enough, but make sure you have a quality swage tool. We tried a Motion Pro, and it was [email protected] I bought the genuine DID swaging tool almost 20 years ago, and it was about $150 back then, but I see you can get them now for about $100. This thing is beefy and sturdy A/F, and looks meant to do this all day, every day....forever. Make sure you get a genuine DID one, not some cheap knockoff made of chinesium. Best to buy it straight from DID. Here's what it looks like: https://www.amazon.com/D-I-D-KM500R-Chain-Rivet-Tool/dp/B0040PM2EI

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Is this still an issue with Sprint filters? Im due for a change and saw a lot of people recommend them, so I have one on order, but now that I see this thread I’m thinking maybe I’ll send it back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
I changed back to oem & I was using the sprint road filter, I would install another brand like BMC which I have used in the past with zero problems, for road use I feel the oil coated aftermarket filter option is the better option. I bought the Sprint on forum recommendations from tuners etc my personal exp is for my usage oem is best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
So my 2015 is around 52,000 km in different conditions and probably 100 trackdays. I have decided to start racing it in the N-cup series this spring and wanted to check it. It to has had the sprint filter for the last 20,000 kms

It has the same dust as everybody else. I decided to pull apart a bit more to have a look. Six of the intake valves has zero clearance and two a tiny bit(still out of spec). It is chilly here now and Im sure there is clearance at operating temp as no valve apear burnt. The bottom of the intake ports appear to have a thin oil film in it and on the back of the valves (is this to be expected?) all 4 appear the same.

Im not pulling the head yet, but start by shimming the valves and do a compression test. To me it looks like my engine has accelerated wear on valve seats and seals.

Do not blame the filter yet as this can be a coincident. We need more data.
Valvetrain looks immaculate, and as a fun fact i have never seen a valve needing adjustment using an oem filter on the s1000.

The bike was still running strong as ever when pulling it apart
 

Attachments

1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top