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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2016 s1000rr was recently stolen (attempted) the thieves cut the wiring in the ignition harness damaged the steering lock and immobilizer. Wiring was fixed with solderless connectors and the triple tree was sent out to bmw and they replaced the immobilizer and steering locking mechanism. Put everything back together and now I’m getting the NO CAN message and the bike won’t start need some help please
 

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2021 S1000RR M Sport
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Get a GS911 and scan for faults. Will narrow down the CAN faults to which control units. Looks like an issue though with the wiring repair to the ignition / EWS module though. Dash is not getting CAN from the EWS module which is the ignition / immobilizer. There are 2 CAN wires between the dash and EWS. CAN Low is brown and white and CAN High is black and white. I would start with these.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Get a GS911 and scan for faults. Will narrow down the CAN faults to which control units. Looks like an issue though with the wiring repair to the ignition / EWS module though. Dash is not getting CAN from the EWS module which is the ignition / immobilizer. There are 2 CAN wires between the dash and EWS. CAN Low is brown and white and CAN High is black and white. I would start with these.
Ok I will double check the wiring repair I remember seeing the the black and white wires that twist together thank u
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Canbus is incredibly intollerant to bad wiring. It maybe easier and quicker to get a replacement loom from a breakers yard / salvage

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
I might have to go that route the wiring was fixed very well and clean
 

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Silly thought here, but is the battery good? My battery went bad recently and the screen went crazy with all sorts of things going off, including the CAN words. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 

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Do you have and are you handy with a multimeter? You could test the CAN-BUS wires, to make sure they are correct into KOMBI and the rest of the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Do you have and are you handy with a multimeter? You could test the CAN-BUS wires, to make sure they are correct into KOMBI and the rest of the bike.
Yes I have a multimeter but have no idea of what the reading should be there aren’t many post about this subject and bmw dealer isn’t very helpful they would just replace the whole wiring harness I could do that myself lol
 

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Surely there is more to this story than your bike was stolen and you have fixed some wiring.

NO CAN on the cluster can mean alot of things beyond the wiring and the battery. 90% of the time however it is battery related first ( over all power is 12V with load ) .. Then the wiring at the steering area has been cut and repaired... Then the terminator has been removed like if there was a alarm on the bike and the thieves or you removed the alarm but you did not put the terminator back on the wiring connector. That termination cap must be there for a complete CAN BUS circuit. Depending on the last status of the cluster ( KOMBI ) saw on the modules it will either allow the ECU ( DME ) to provide a start path, or it will not turn over at all needing the CAN BUS termination.

So check the rear tail area for that connector and see if the terminator is in place, or if there was an alarm and it has been removed let us know that type of detail.

The cluster might not be your cluster. Did the thieves happen to buy a cluster off ebay and try to get the bike started? I sell clusters with no programming to people when they request it. I can virgin a cluster to ZERO programming and that exact NO CAN message is what comes up on a virgin cluster not having been programmed on ISTA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Surely there is more to this story than your bike was stolen and you have fixed some wiring.

NO CAN on the cluster can mean alot of things beyond the wiring and the battery. 90% of the time however it is battery related first ( over all power is 12V with load ) .. Then the wiring at the steering area has been cut and repaired... Then the terminator has been removed like if there was a alarm on the bike and the thieves or you removed the alarm but you did not put the terminator back on the wiring connector. That termination cap must be there for a complete CAN BUS circuit. Depending on the last status of the cluster ( KOMBI ) saw on the modules it will either allow the ECU ( DME ) to provide a start path, or it will not turn over at all needing the CAN BUS termination.

So check the rear tail area for that connector and see if the terminator is in place, or if there was an alarm and it has been removed let us know that type of detail.

The cluster might not be your cluster. Did the thieves happen to buy a cluster off ebay and try to get the bike started? I sell clusters with no programming to people when they request it. I can virgin a cluster to ZERO programming and that exact NO CAN message is what comes up on a virgin cluster not having been programmed on ISTA.
There is no more to the story. My bike was taken they tried to hot wire it or something they cut all the wires going to the ignition. They left the bike a couple of blocks away from my house because they couldn’t get it started. The ignition fuse was blown and the wiring was hanging. There were no plastics removed. The terminator plug is on the the first and second generation s1000rr this a third generation (2016) so I believe it doesn’t have that canbus plu in the back. The only damage was the ignition wiring busted steering lock and cracked housing on the immobilizer. The steering lock and immobilizer was replaced by the dealership
 

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The CAN BUS terminator is in every BMW S1000RR, M1000RR, R1200, R1250..Those are resistor loop back cap plugs for the CAN BUS and I can assure you if one is missing it will not start depending on the status the DME was in last it looked at the CAN BUS.

I have no confidence in a dealer working on a EWS and DME.. then marrying that to the KOMBI .. so if you are not wanting to send it all to me for evaluation, take it back to the dealer and try again there.
 

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Like @BMW_388 said, the CAN-BUS under normal conditions is terminated with resistors at either end of the bus. These resistors are 120 Ohms each, so when measuring the resistance across the CAN-BUS (with ignition off), you should see 60 Ohms (2 x 120 Ohm resistors in parallel).

I have pieced together a basic CAN-BUS wiring diagram for 2016 S1000RR (It should be applicable for 2015-2018 models).

BMW S1000RR 2016 K46 CAN-BUS Wiring Diagram

DISCLAIMER: I take no responsibility for accuracy of information contained in the .PDF from the link above

Either way you should be able to verify the wire colours (CAN_H: white/black CAN_L: white/brown) and they will stand out, because they are a twisted pair.



Basic Test Procedure:
1. Ensure all connectors are plugged into their respective modules and the ignition is off.
2. Set you multi-meter to a low Ohms scale (see image below).
3. Measure across each of the CAN_H and CAN_L pins on each of the DME, EWS, KOMBI and DWA connectors (Tip: Use pins get access to wires from the rear of the connectors).



Result #1: If you get significantly less than 60 Ohms, then this indicates something is wrong with the wiring or possibly a faulty module. Start unplugging all modules (including the ABS, ESA and Angular Rate Sensor etc), but one at a time and re-test the CAN_L and CAN_H resistance to see if it was a module causing the issue.

Result #2: If you get OL (Open Line), then you will need to verify each CAN_L and CAN_H wire goes to all of the other modules (DME, EWS, KOMBI and DWA etc) shown in the wiring diagram above. There might be some other modules e.g. ABS, ESA and Angular Rate Sensor etc, but just focus on these main modules to start with.

Let me know how you go with it?
 

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Canbus is incredibly intollerant to bad wiring. It maybe easier and quicker to get a replacement loom from a breakers yard / salvage

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
Maybe even resistance of the connection raised causing CAN to not acknowledge the fixed wiring?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Like @BMW_388 said, the CAN-BUS under normal conditions is terminated with resistors at either end of the bus. These resistors are 120 Ohms each, so when measuring the resistance across the CAN-BUS (with ignition off), you should see 60 Ohms (2 x 120 Ohm resistors in parallel).

I have pieced together a basic CAN-BUS wiring diagram for 2016 S1000RR (It should be applicable for 2015-2018 models).

BMW S1000RR 2016 K46 CAN-BUS Wiring Diagram

DISCLAIMER: I take no responsibility for accuracy of information contained in the .PDF from the link above

Either way you should be able to verify the wire colours (CAN_H: white/black CAN_L: white/brown) and they will stand out, because they are a twisted pair.



Basic Test Procedure:
1. Ensure all connectors are plugged into their respective modules and the ignition is off.
2. Set you multi-meter to a low Ohms scale (see image below).
3. Measure across each of the CAN_H and CAN_L pins on each of the DME, EWS, KOMBI and DWA connectors (Tip: Use pins get access to wires from the rear of the connectors).



Result #1: If you get significantly less than 60 Ohms, then this indicates something is wrong with the wiring or possibly a faulty module. Start unplugging all modules (including the ABS, ESA and Angular Rate Sensor etc), but one at a time and re-test the CAN_L and CAN_H resistance to see if it was a module causing the issue.

Result #2: If you get OL (Open Line), then you will need to verify each CAN_L and CAN_H wire goes to all of the other modules (DME, EWS, KOMBI and DWA etc) shown in the wiring diagram above. There might be some other modules e.g. ABS, ESA and Angular Rate Sensor etc, but just focus on these main modules to start with.

Let me know how you go with it?
I will check the resistance this weekend appreciate all the help
 

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Maybe even resistance of the connection raised causing CAN to not acknowledge the fixed wiring?
I repaired a HP4 harness for a guy here on the forum several years ago as one of my first projects in tracing the CAN BUS. I did get it working. However, I advised David as confident as I was in the repairs a replacement harness was the better choice. Butt connectors and even using solder ( making a multi strand wire ) into a solid connection dealing with PWM is not a good idea. The stranded wire in even the gauge of it is has a specific purpose and function of data transmission.

I have evaluated OP hardware. The hardware is good in function. All testing on my 2015 showed it works 100%. Upon getting the ECU I pulled all codes in ISTA and it showed over 32 codes. Several were CAN BUS issues between modules. I have advised OP to go ahead and retest the hardware on his harness since he has a GS911 and can reset the codes later after replacing the harness. There was a code upon getting the ECU that would prevent the fuel pump from working and when I reset the ECU it fired up my fuel pump on the test bench. Then testing on my 2015 test bike showed no errors and a good start up.

So we shall see where it goes from here on his end.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I repaired a HP4 harness for a guy here on the forum several years ago as one of my first projects in tracing the CAN BUS. I did get it working. However, I advised David as confident as I was in the repairs a replacement harness was the better choice. Butt connectors and even using solder ( making a multi strand wire ) into a solid connection dealing with PWM is not a good idea. The stranded wire in even the gauge of it is has a specific purpose and function of data transmission.

I have evaluated OP hardware. The hardware is good in function. All testing on my 2015 showed it works 100%. Upon getting the ECU I pulled all codes in ISTA and it showed over 32 codes. Several were CAN BUS issues between modules. I have advised OP to go ahead and retest the hardware on his harness since he has a GS911 and can reset the codes later after replacing the harness. There was a code upon getting the ECU that would prevent the fuel pump from working and when I reset the ECU it fired up my fuel pump on the test bench. Then testing on my 2015 test bike showed no errors and a good start up.

So we shall see where it goes from here on his end.
She’s running now used the repair clips from bmw. Thanks a million to bmw_388 for the diagnostic of the dme cluster and the immobilizer. Appreciate all the replies and advice from all the members here
 
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