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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a K67 that I have converted to a race bike, and take part in the both ST1000 series @Motegi (Dunlop slick spec tyre), and the Mcfaj unlimited class @Fuji Speedway (Michelin slicks) here in Japan.
The changes to the bike are the minimum to pass scrutineering, and to improve braking.

The bike looks like this:
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Sky Vehicle


Modifications:
motoxpcambri cowl
Spyder rearsets
Akra Ti full exhaust
GB racing engine protectors
Alpha brake lever protector
Alpha frame sliders
Alpha 6mm rotors (not shown in the photo)
Radiator protectors (forget the brand)
Brembo corsa corta master
Rs2e ECU flash
Water in the radiator :)


So far this year, have a podium at Fuji(y)and lots of running around near the back of the pack at Motegi:cool:
I can provide some comments on how I have it setup, how the carbon wheels are holding up, or on the Rs2e flash etc if anyone has interest.


Now for the suspension discussion:
I am running on the DDC, completely standard and it is pretty good, but when pushed at a hard braking track like Motegi is not as confidence inspiring as I would like. There is a slight 'bobble' that I cannot get rid of when coming off the brakes on the slower corners (V corner and hairpin for example).
=> Does anyone know if there are shim stack etc options out there to improve the DDC damping characteristics?
In my searching I cannot find anything so far.

Note that changing to non-DDC is an option but the last thing I will try.
 

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2021 S1000RR M Sport
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I believe Sep the product manager did show this in a video when the K67 was released. As far as anyone tuning it. You won't find any. Simply it is better to use drop in cartridges or swap to another complete fork altogether and tune from there. As for track bikes there are better products available and with more easy of adjustability. I am sure you could tune it and improve it. But to be honest, just chuck ohlins on it or similar and go from there. When you need the DDC removed from the vehicle send me a message and I'll sort you out.

In terms of the shims and tuning etc. BMW did release information in an internal document regarding fitting silicone plugs in the base of the cartridge for use exclusively on race tracks.

 

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Nice build! You can put shims, I'm curious how DDC does in a race setting.

How are you liking Rs2e flash? Did you have to mail in your ECU, or flashed it at home with a handheld?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@Benny:
I've gone down the ohlins route on a previous bike, and actually not found it to be better than a properly sprung, and damped, OEM setup. I'll let you know if I decide to swap out the DDC parts, but want to try all the other options first, because I actually like the DDC.

@z00:
If you know where to get shims let me know. That is exactly what I need.
The DDC is quite good actually, and the bike responds to every single 'click' change that is made to the damping.
I feel that there is not quite enough high speed damping in the forks, which is likely why it is a bit bobbly when trying to quickly get off the brakes and onto the throttle. This is hat I would like to update with a shim stack.
The rear feels good, and tyre wear is generally good. Standard spring might be a tiny bit under-sprung for me (about 90Kg with gear on) so it compresses a little bit much under full acceleration. Not out of control though, and the damping is consistent over race distance (10 laps).

The Rs2e flash I can recommend.
I had to send the ECU to them in Germany, but they did a great job of getting it turned around and back to me. They don't have a handheld option, but I was ok with that.
Apart from disabling the airbox flappers and fixing the cold start idle and disabling various sensors etc etc, the big ticket items are:
  • quickshift, works much better
  • DTC is audible, which is very useful. I use minimum DTC setting, so being able to hear it helps backing it right out to where it is not interfeering, and the range is wider than OEM.
  • \Wheelie control, works much better than OEM. Before the flash I had this disabled and modulated wheelies with the back brake due to excessive interference. Now it is much less intrusive and still keeps the front planted.
 

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@Piper Good info on RS2e flash. Are not you worried about warranty if you have to take the bike to dealership with a flashed ECU?

Try contacting Shop 2020 BMW S1000RR Suspension Spare Parts.
to see if they can source the shims. Or if you attend any of BMW sponsored track events, they have people that can point you in the right direction.
 

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Spectacular photo!

Any idea how Rs2e makes the TC audible? And does it give any indication of the degree to which TC is intervening?

I've been considering getting it as a learning tool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Spectacular photo!

Any idea how Rs2e makes the TC audible? And does it give any indication of the degree to which TC is intervening?

I've been considering getting it as a learning tool.
That's Mt Fuji in the background in the pic. Looks nice with some snow on it ok.

Not sure of the details of how they make it audible, but some combination of fuel cut and spark I guess.
The sound gives an immediate idea of how much TC is in operation.
If for example it is set to a really high setting to where the DTC is cutting in everwhere, it makes the bike sound like a propeller plane. Sounds great actually, not like a misfire.
When the DTC is backed off the sound reduces, so you only get an audible output in direct proportion to the actual TC interaction. This is the way you find the sweet spot for TC interaction v's forward drive.

The DTC lamp on the dash still flashes, but no need to look at it.
Interesting thing is that the sound doesn't record very well on a GoPro, so the audible freq is below the audio pickup range on the camera.


@Piper Good info on RS2e flash. Are not you worried about warranty if you have to take the bike to dealership with a flashed ECU?

Try contacting Shop 2020 BMW S1000RR Suspension Spare Parts.
to see if they can source the shims. Or if you attend any of BMW sponsored track events, they have people that can point you in the right direction.
If I blow the engine racing it, then its my fault.
The dealer knows I race it anyway, but are pretty good about non-engine claims so far, for example
1. Cam chain adjuster issues, 2. Caliper replacements 3. Front wheel replacement due to leaky calipers. 4. Issues with the DDC suspension

Have 1000KMs run in, and 2400 KMs track on it so far with no issues. WIll keep my fingers crossed.
Thanks for the link. Will try contacting.
 

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Great bike, great build, great pic, and LOVE the paint scheme! Best of luck!
 

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I have a K67 that I have converted to a race bike, and take part in the both ST1000 series @Motegi (Dunlop slick spec tyre), and the Mcfaj unlimited class @Fuji Speedway (Michelin slicks) here in Japan.
The changes to the bike are the minimum to pass scrutineering, and to improve braking.

The bike looks like this:
View attachment 218369

Modifications:
motoxpcambri cowl
Spyder rearsets
Akra Ti full exhaust
GB racing engine protectors
Alpha brake lever protector
Alpha frame sliders
Alpha 6mm rotors (not shown in the photo)
Radiator protectors (forget the brand)
Brembo corsa corta master
Rs2e ECU flash
Water in the radiator :)


So far this year, have a podium at Fuji(y)and lots of running around near the back of the pack at Motegi:cool:
I can provide some comments on how I have it setup, how the carbon wheels are holding up, or on the Rs2e flash etc if anyone has interest.


Now for the suspension discussion:
I am running on the DDC, completely standard and it is pretty good, but when pushed at a hard braking track like Motegi is not as confidence inspiring as I would like. There is a slight 'bobble' that I cannot get rid of when coming off the brakes on the slower corners (V corner and hairpin for example).
=> Does anyone know if there are shim stack etc options out there to improve the DDC damping characteristics?
In my searching I cannot find anything so far.

Note that changing to non-DDC is an option but the last thing I will try.
Well if you want to go fast the DDC is unfortunately not the path.

I race at a national level in Norway and have tried the DDC route. The 2D sensor will help but the system unfortunately do not provide the feedback and versatility needed to win races at a high level.
 

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I have a K67 that I have converted to a race bike, and take part in the both ST1000 series @Motegi (Dunlop slick spec tyre), and the Mcfaj unlimited class @Fuji Speedway (Michelin slicks) here in Japan.
The changes to the bike are the minimum to pass scrutineering, and to improve braking.

The bike looks like this:
View attachment 218369

Modifications:
motoxpcambri cowl
Spyder rearsets
Akra Ti full exhaust
GB racing engine protectors
Alpha brake lever protector
Alpha frame sliders
Alpha 6mm rotors (not shown in the photo)
Radiator protectors (forget the brand)
Brembo corsa corta master
Rs2e ECU flash
Water in the radiator :)


So far this year, have a podium at Fuji(y)and lots of running around near the back of the pack at Motegi:cool:
I can provide some comments on how I have it setup, how the carbon wheels are holding up, or on the Rs2e flash etc if anyone has interest.


Now for the suspension discussion:
I am running on the DDC, completely standard and it is pretty good, but when pushed at a hard braking track like Motegi is not as confidence inspiring as I would like. There is a slight 'bobble' that I cannot get rid of when coming off the brakes on the slower corners (V corner and hairpin for example).
=> Does anyone know if there are shim stack etc options out there to improve the DDC damping characteristics?
In my searching I cannot find anything so far.

Note that changing to non-DDC is an option but the last thing I will try.
はじめまして、同じ日本の方みたいなので3点ほど質問させてください。

① 写真ではノーマルキャリパーのようですが、このフォーラムでたびたび話題になってるブレーキフルードの漏れはありますか?私のは幸いなことに全然気配すらなく、周りにも漏れたという人がいません。一部の生産ロット、もしくは一部の国向け仕様の問題なんでしょうか?
② Rs2e ECU flashを使用なさってるみたいですが、その場合は新車保証はどうなってますか?多分すでに答えられてると思いますが、英語が苦手で・・・
③ コルサコルタをお使いのようですが、レーシングマスターを使わない理由があればお教えください。

ぶしつけな質問で申し訳ないです。当方も身体的な問題(妊娠)が解決すればK67でサーキットに戻ろうと思ってますので、参考にさせてください。

Everyone else. Sorry for the minority language.
 

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はじめまして、同じ日本の方みたいなので3点ほど質問させてください。

① 写真ではノーマルキャリパーのようですが、このフォーラムでたびたび話題になってるブレーキフルードの漏れはありますか?私のは幸いなことに全然気配すらなく、周りにも漏れたという人がいません。一部の生産ロット、もしくは一部の国向け仕様の問題なんでしょうか?
② Rs2e ECU flashを使用なさってるみたいですが、その場合は新車保証はどうなってますか?多分すでに答えられてると思いますが、英語が苦手で・・・
③ コルサコルタをお使いのようですが、レーシングマスターを使わない理由があればお教えください。

ぶしつけな質問で申し訳ないです。当方も身体的な問題(妊娠)が解決すればK67でサーキットに戻ろうと思ってますので、参考にさせてください。

Everyone else. Sorry for the minority language.
I don't understand any of it, but no need to apologize. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
How do you find swapping between Michelin and dunlop. Must be a different setup?
The Dunlops are 200/60, 120/70, and the Michelins are 200/55, 120/70. The Dunlops have a much stiffer carcass than the Michelins, and quite a bit heavier also.
This year is my first full season on the bike, so still trying to get it to feel right, but haven't found much difference in outright grip or setup between the tyre makes so far. Couple of clicks on the damping.
In general the Michelins are more neutral steering than the Dunlops, which tend to want to flop into the turns due to the higher profile on the rear I guess.


Well if you want to go fast the DDC is unfortunately not the path.

I race at a national level in Norway and have tried the DDC route. The 2D sensor will help but the system unfortunately do not provide the feedback and versatility needed to win races at a high level.
I actually do have the 2D sensor on the front, just forgot to put it in the list of mods above, and is necessary for sure.
In the end I may come to the same conclusion on the DDC, but not going to make any big changes until the off season. Last race this year for me coming up weekend after next.

I'm finding the suspension to be very vague on the transition off the brakes in haevy braking stop/go corners in particular, so difficult to be consistent.. Sound familiar?

Nice mountain in background.

Did you shorten the throttle with rs2e ?
I didn't, but regretting not doing it now. The throw on the OEM throttle is just a bit too much. Might get it done over winter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
はじめまして、同じ日本の方みたいなので3点ほど質問させてください。

① 写真ではノーマルキャリパーのようですが、このフォーラムでたびたび話題になってるブレーキフルードの漏れはありますか?私のは幸いなことに全然気配すらなく、周りにも漏れたという人がいません。一部の生産ロット、もしくは一部の国向け仕様の問題なんでしょうか?
② Rs2e ECU flashを使用なさってるみたいですが、その場合は新車保証はどうなってますか?多分すでに答えられてると思いますが、英語が苦手で・・・
③ コルサコルタをお使いのようですが、レーシングマスターを使わない理由があればお教えください。

ぶしつけな質問で申し訳ないです。当方も身体的な問題(妊娠)が解決すればK67でサーキットに戻ろうと思ってますので、参考にさせてください。

Everyone else. Sorry for the minority language.

はじめまして。日本に住んでる外国人です。
ノーマルキャリパーはバイク買ったばっかり一回フルイッド漏れてDealerで交換してくれた。その後特に問題なし。
一部のパーツだけに問題あるらしい。

Rs2e FlashはDealerにもちろん言うってません:)。Rs2eの情報で行くとFlashされたことは分からない。
Dealerでアップデットされたらも一同Rs2eに送らないと。

コルサコルタ選んだのはコストだけ。パフォマンスはOEMより良いので満足。

Fujiかモテギ走ってる?もしかしたらあったことあるかも。
ゼッケンは#10に変わってる。
 

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[QUOTE = "パイパー、投稿:2407176、メンバー:3689"]
はじめまして。日本に住んでる外国人です。
普通キャリパーハバイクたたばっかり一回フルイッド漏れてディーラーで交換しててた。
いのまとめだけにあるあるなり。

Rs2eフラッシュはディーラーにでき:)ます。
ディーラーでアップデットされます。

コルサコルタダのはコストだけ。パフォマンスはOEMより良いのである。

フジかモテギ走ってる?
ゼッケンは#10に変えます。
[/見積もり]
Thank you very much. Thank you for your kind words.
Until last year, I competed in the st600 local championships.
I have been a spot competitor in the st600 All Japan Championship, so we may have met somewhere.
I have a baby in my belly, so I am away from the circuit for now.
I want to ride, but I can't zip up my racing suit.:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
I hope to meet you at a circuit somewhere someday.

Google Translate.;)
 
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