[Smhooligan]

Not 100% sure if this is the right section, but if not feel free to move admin. So after doing hours of searching I still haven't found out my complete answer

I have a 2012 RR and I usually run Q3's 190 55 17. Changed the tire on Friday and went with a Pirelli Angel GT same dimension as the Q3. I lead with this bc this is the only thing that I changed.

Rode it for about 2 hours yesterday and about halfway through my ride I felt power shut off and the TC light flashed for about 5 seconds, turned off and power came back on. Then my buddy rode it for about 5 mins and the light flashed again and power dropped. He pulled in the clutch and the motor died. I turned the key and the gauges swept, but nothing happened when I hit the starter. I waited 10 mins and did some research and found a ton about tire size diameters and TC. I then tried it again and it started, so I immediately shut off TC and tried to ride it again. Shut down after 1 min of riding and now wont start again. When you turn the key on the TC light is solid. Tried disconnecting the battery and nada... I called the local BMW dealer and he suggested a bad starter switch!! I told him a bad starter switch wouldn't make TC flash and cut power, and the bike was running when it died.

Thanks in advance

 

[the_gooch]

Battery or combination switches. Has absolutely nothing to do with your tire change.

 

[Jaylude22]

Is the battery the original one that came with the bike in '12?

 

[skapan]

Try a known good battery before you panic. What you are seeing is one of many possible faults caused by poor battery connections and/or a bad battery. Let us know what you find.

2012 doesn't really care about tire diameter like the 2015+ version, so I doubt going back to the old tire will fix the problem.

 

[Smhooligan]

Ok I'll meter the battery in it now to check for voltage, and put in a known good battery. Thanks guys!!

 

[Smhooligan]

Forgot to mention, it is the battery that came in it. So it def is old

 

[z00]

Tire change has nothing to do with it.

Check battery and its terminals. Most likely you need a new battery. I have a new OEM one for sale. PM if interested.

 

[Smhooligan]

Ok so checked the voltage of the battery, and it's right at 12. Jumped in a known good battery and nothing. Even hooked jumper cables and still nothing.

 

[bennymx]

When you hit the switch. Does the bike crank? Or is it just silent?

 

[dochp]

A paradigm of correlation vs causation...Highly to incredibly unlikely that the tire change itself caused this. I would start elsewhere.

Your starter switch is also a kill switch - I think - so a bad connection there would cause something like this...? no?

Maybe a bad connection somewhere between battery and bike?

Did the bike kind of bog down when it died or did it just flat out die? The former would suggest a bad connection between battery/bike, the latter would suggest the kill switch. It would be difficult to tell if you were moving oon the bike when the bike died...but if you were stopped and in neutral and still bogged then....perhaps that will point you in a direction...

I also seem to recall from physics that a small drop in voltage would cause a vehicle battery to not turnover the engine - so if your battery voltage is just a little off - that could cause a problem with starts. Also, I have no history of being a paid mechanic, so I'm just shooting out of my butt here. That's about all the "help" i can offer...lo siento senor.

 

[Smhooligan]

The bike doesn't even turn over when you hit the start switch.

I was accelerating in a right hand sweeper in third gear and it cut power and started flashing the TC light like it lost traction. 3-5 seconds later power came back online. Second time it flashed the tc light and died.

I ruled out a voltage drop by using the jumper cables and a known battery.

 

[Elk]

Ok so checked the voltage of the battery, and it's right at 12.

At rest, the voltage should be at least 12.6V. You have an almost dead battery.

 

[bennymx]

What I'm thinking is the bike is not charging. If you can get the bike running with a new battery then check the charge rate. Should be at least 14.2V. My stator burnt out on my 14 RR. Started doing all sorts of weird sh1t. I checked battery, Regulator and it ended up being the stator. Was earthing out. Pulled it out. Black and burnt all round. The dash was lighting up everything, resetting, no power, quick shift didnt work. Turned it off. Thing wouldn't start again.

1. Loose battery connection
2. Battery is flat
3. Battery is charged but won't pass a load test
4. Bike is not charging

Easy to narrow it down.

 

[Colers]

It's gotta be the stator, I have burned a few of them out on other bikes. Do you ride hard mate. If you want the best battery get a Shorai. i have these in all my bikes are they are simply the best, and 1/5 the weight of the oem as well. They crank hard and charge up quick.

Hope you figure it out, Once again benny is the man and has the best reply imo.

 

[the_gooch]

Did you remove the battery from the bike or just run a different one in parllel with jumper cables?

You need to remove questionable battery from the circuit. 12.0V at rest is a dead battery.

Bike should fire with good battery. If nothing, my $ is on switches.

 

[Smhooligan]

I don't ride toooooo hard! Lol ok maybe a lil

https://youtu.be/21rFa31Lr4A

I took the battery out of the circuit all together, and hooked the other battery directly to the terminals. I'll try another battery

 

[Smhooligan]

A paradigm of correlation vs causation...Highly to incredibly unlikely that the tire change itself caused this. I would start elsewhere.

Your starter switch is also a kill switch - I think - so a bad connection there would cause something like this...? no?

Maybe a bad connection somewhere between battery and bike?

Did the bike kind of bog down when it died or did it just flat out die? The former would suggest a bad connection between battery/bike, the latter would suggest the kill switch. It would be difficult to tell if you were moving oon the bike when the bike died...but if you were stopped and in neutral and still bogged then....perhaps that will point you in a direction...

I also seem to recall from physics that a small drop in voltage would cause a vehicle battery to not turnover the engine - so if your battery voltage is just a little off - that could cause a problem with starts. Also, I have no history of being a paid mechanic, so I'm just shooting out of my butt here. That's about all the "help" i can offer...lo siento senor.

the bike flashed the TC light and just cut power, not necessarily shut off. I am by no means a paid mechanic either, but I really appreciate everyones help. I am a jack of all trades, and a master of none.

 

[Smhooligan]

So with jumper cables hooked to the terminals I'm getting 13.7 constant vdc and still nothing. Safe to say it's not a battery, or connection right? I'm gonna download a wiring schematic (try) and start shooting wires and test the kill switch. Ugh...

 

[bennymx]

So with jumper cables hooked to the terminals I'm getting 13.7 constant vdc and still nothing. Safe to say it's not a battery, or connection right? I'm gonna download a wiring schematic (try) and start shooting wires and test the kill switch. Ugh...

If you have a jump pack connected and it is doing nothing when you press the start button then its probably the switch. Providing Gear sensor, clutch switches and sidestand switch are all in working order.

 

[Smhooligan]

it is neutral, and i had it on the stand with the side stand up. Im going to find out where the starter relay is and meter for power there. also going to pull the start button apart and meter continuity through it.