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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Updated - Kickstand Removal - Maybe not the Issue

Have a 2016 and need to remove the kickstand. Had a friend tell me - Cut the switch off. There are three wires. Start the bike and start connecting wires until the bike keeps running. Then just tie those two together with electrical tape.

I wanted to test it before I removed the stand - I unplugged the kickstand plug and using a small wire tried to jump two of the three wires at a time (via the open end of the plug).

However, now the rear wheel is under power when the clutch lever is pulled in.

I connected the kickstand plug back to the kickstand and the same thing happens.

Thoughts?

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #2
OK, so I did get the kickstand removal to work with a little jumper, but the power issue may be related to an oil change.

I took it for a test ride and it rode fine - bike did not pull when clutch pulled in.

Brought it back home, put it up on a stand and the clutch pull worked fine (no wheel spin) - but once I let clutch out and let the wheel pickup speed and pulled the clutch lever the wheel continued to spin with power.

Still questioning why this is doing this.
 

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OK, so I did get the kickstand removal to work with a little jumper, but the power issue may be related to an oil change.

I took it for a test ride and it rode fine - bike did not pull when clutch pulled in.

Brought it back home, put it up on a stand and the clutch pull worked fine (no wheel spin) - but once I let clutch out and let the wheel pickup speed and pulled the clutch lever the wheel continued to spin with power.

Still questioning why this is doing this.
To my limited knowledge there should be no causation between the two. You just happened to notice the power to the wheel issue when you did something unrelated to the bike.

Clutch is all mechanical on S1k.

If i had to guess your clutch plates are just sticking a little. Could be that your clutch is out of adjustment/something inside the clutch needs repair (less likely?) or maybe just new clutch plates/oil?. Per the manual i believe youre supposed to have 1-2mm of "free play" in the clutch lever.

Try (with a gloved hand or better yet some kind of surrogate so you dont accidentally destroy your hand) to "break" the seal on the wheel so to speak when you pull in the clutch. Obv be very careful not to get your hand caught up in something. If you can get the wheel to stop without a measurable decrease in engine speed then i wouldn't worry about it. A lot of bikes do this. To my knowledge its not a bad thing. I'm sure someone else who knows tf theyre talking about will chime in shortly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks dochp - Yeah after thinking about it I figured it was more related to the oil change than the kickstand bypass. It didn't do it previously and is kinda hit and miss now. I'm gonna run it some and see if it changes.
 

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Normal for rear wheel to spin when on a stand. There is always some friction in the clutch plates caused by the oil between the clutch plates. It's even more pronounced when the engine is cold and the oil is thicker.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks njbmw - I just never saw it doing 10mph previously.

Normal for rear wheel to spin when on a stand. There is always some friction in the clutch plates caused by the oil between the clutch plates. It's even more pronounced when the engine is cold and the oil is thicker.
 
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