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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When my k67 was wrecked, the left bar clamp looks like it twisted and, and it made a small dent at the bottom edge in my upper stanchion. Was hoping it would somehow be fine, but riding it the forks are pretty clearly twisted, and I'm weeping oil from both forks; it's not bad, but it's not great.

I've done a handful of zx6r, r6, and r1 forks. I'm planning on swapping the upper from a used RH fork onto my LH lower, but my bootleg service manual doesn't have procedures for anything more than fluid change. Would anyone be willing to provide this section of the service manual? My manual says something about not letting the uppers bushing separate from the lower, but I don't even see bushings available on MaxBMW.

Gratefully accepting positive thoughts on the condition of my triples, because new ones are expensive and I'd like to get some miles on this thing before winter.
 

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I'm assuming then you are familiar with spring removal and fluid changes...

There's not much to them as far as taking them apart as they are held together by the cartridge. Top cap off, unscrew bolt from the bottom of the leg, slide them apart.

I'd bet if a fork tube bent, the triple is bent too. Are there any companies near you that can measure/fix these things? Probably worth it since it is apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm assuming then you are familiar with spring removal and fluid changes...

There's not much to them as far as taking them apart as they are held together by the cartridge. Top cap off, unscrew bolt from the bottom of the leg, slide them apart.

I'd bet if a fork tube bent, the triple is bent too. Are there any companies near you that can measure/fix these things? Probably worth it since it is apart.
Good to hear. The R1 has a bushing on the upper and lower stanchion, and you have to drive the two apart, which usually wrecks the bushings. I'll pull the top triple at least and check it for flatness, I'll roll the dice on the bottom and see if the bike tracks true. If not I'll pull everything this winter and send to a machine shop to check true/flat, go from there. If you've got recommendations for suspension shops I'm all ears.
 

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In case you want to drop if off at a shop, check out Accelerated Technologies
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'll give GP frame and wheel a shout if after the fork rebuild it's still not tracking straight. Accelerated Technologies would be a long drive for me.

I'll take pictures of fork guts for you Skapan 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, the donor fork i got ended up having the same bend in the same spot from the clip on crushing the stanchion. I just want to ride the thing before winter, so in a last-ditch effort I loosened the top triple and axle pinch bolts, held the wheel between my knees, and wiggled the bars back and forth until they found their natural center. Tightened everything back up, seemed to stay true, measured from bars to subframe bolts and everything looks good! If the forks keep weeping or go out of true I'll post another update.
 
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