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Discussion Starter #1
My '16 died on me just after getting on the road today, dies going into gear.
Somehow I got it back home and it died again in the driveway. I suspected the sidestand switch and took it
apart and found it was wet inside for some reason. Didn't look like chain lube, either antifreeze or maybe engine oil?

I've been trying to jumper the sidestand switch to see if it's the issue, or I can remove it from the list, but I've not had
any luck trying to jumper it. I say that, because it still dies going into gear.

Is there any easy/better way to do this, or does this mean this isn't my issue?
(presuming I had my wire making contact)
Any other usual suspects to check when this happens?

Thanks in advance
 

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I once wrote BMW North America and suggested that in the computer selection of events, when the side stand switch fails, a fault shows for it. You then select it and acknowledge it. Now the bike will start and run until the next ignition switch off event. You would have to go to the computer page and again acknowledge it to continue at the next start up. Thus get home!!!!:smile2:
I was told they don't take suggestions from the public. Can't print what I thought about that. :frown2: Simple software. Maybe 2 hours work. :surprise:
 
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If it's intermittent the GS-911 will give you "implausible signal" so that you may take action. I agree, never any light on the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I"m not sure how I even got it restarted to get it home, I can't keep it running going into gear at all now.
I checked with the GS911, no error codes shown yet.
 

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In a few of the sections of the GS911 it shows values and if a switch is activated of not. I know are 2 for the clutch lever switches so I would think there is also one for the side stand switch. At least this way you know what the ECU is seeing, in case it's a wiring and not a switch issue. Since the stand switch circuit is either open or closed, as long as the ECU can see one of the conditions it may not display a fault code.
 

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If the connector/switch was full of some fluid then it could be creating an issue with the wiring. I've seen water with capillary action migrate through a harness far away from the origin point and make for finding that origin difficult. I would trace back to where that harness goes and try to jumper the wires further up to see if maybe the wiring near the connector now have either green or black death inside. If you could pull back the insulation you'd be able to determine one way or another but I'd sooner recommend tracing further back to jumper the wires if possible.

Because it happens when going into gear are you sure its the side stand switch and not the clutch lever switch which also has a "kill" command when trying to start in gear without the lever pulled in? What does your GS 911 say about the clutch lever position when pulled and released? Does it change? The little tangs of the micro switch can be bent slightly and affect operation. When installing my folding 4Racing levers I had to bend the cruise switch tang slightly so that I could activate my cruise because it was slightly pressing the switch making the ECM think I had the lever pulled in.
 

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Like Motorbike said, GS911 is probably the easiest way to verify if the switch is giving a good reading. Might be a little different for you since I have an '11, but after you pick your model, go into Engine, realtime values, then check the boxes for Sidestand switch 1, Sidestand switch 2, Sidestand switch calculated and see what it gives you. Hopefully it ends up being something simple/easy!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the suggestion guys, the GS911 was a good idea. I did check and unfortunately the sidestand isn't one of the items it tracks under the real time values section.

The GS911 shows no error codes, but it did have a fault code under the XKOMBIK46 module, appears to be for the fuel pump.
"B7F622 Defective Fuel Level Sensor", so I cleared it, and reset everything again, and am about to let it run until the fans
kick on, and try again, as I've got the sidestand wire still jumpered.

When I was trying to clean out the sidestand switch, I accidentally bent the center pin and can't get it straightened back up very well, so I've ordered another one, at least I'll know it's innards weren't soaked to start with complicating the issue.

Thanks again for the help, I appreciate it!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Issue is fixed, it WAS the sidestand switch, in a sense.

The problem was actually how the sidestand switch wire was routed, it was being crushed by the front sprocket cover, instead of being seated in the channel that's there for it.
Happened at the factory apparently.
 

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Alternatively, short the two outside wires together, brown and ? can't remember the other one. Worked for me.
I suspect red is the other color since the three are brown, red, white.

My solution to this, for those not wanting to invest in the Alpha plug, was thus.
  1. Put kickstand up (using rear stand or whatever).
  2. Remove sensor from kickstand hardware, leaving wiring line intact.
  3. Tape the prong pointing outward into place using electrical or duct tape. Tape it with a couple layers so it doesn't vibrate into a different position.
  4. Wire/zip tie it to the oil line to the oil cooler using the hard fitting for the tie. Point the sensor on the inside of the oil line to prevent unintended contact.
Handy for those of us converting the bike back/forth for the track.
 

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Hi i have the same issue of my BMW s1000rr 2011 that issue is just started after i cleaned the area of front sprocket now it is getting worst when ever i dropped the gear engine shut off what should i have to do please help me should i replace the stand switch or what?
 

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you have disconnected or affected the side stand switch sounds like since it is in that area.
 
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