Hi, after reading about lot's people having their hi-beam fail and having
their switch block replaced, sometimes twice. I thought I was lucky, wrong.
So rather than go though the pain of warranty claim here in Australia,
(8 weeks to replace a throttle body)I thought how hard can it be, it's only a switch.
Anyhow, you need to remove the lower half of the s/w block, 2 v-small torx,
hinges from rear, small clips in the front.
The bolt in end of the handlebar.
Then the bolt that holds grip, sleeve s/w block on, it's all one piece and a clamp
that holds the cables which clips onto the upper half
after that the 2 cables pull out.
The switch tested OK, fairly easy to disassemble, looks quite durable, the
same type of switch is used throughout the s/w block, so you would think that the
indicators would fail first if they were problematic.
So it must be in the wiring. The wiring is printed on flexible plastic and glued
to the assembly. Using a multimeter with sharp probes to press through the insulating varnish,
the trace running from the negative side of the switch had failed, even though it looked OK.
So I scraped away the varnish at the switch and the back of the socket
and soldered a jump wire in, tested OK in the bike, stuck it down with glue
and all's well. Seems that trace does a sharp 90 bend, so maybe that's cause??
Disclaimer
Many moons ago I repaired notebooks. So if small fiddly stuff and reasonable soldering skills
are not your strong points, go to the dealer or someone who can
their switch block replaced, sometimes twice. I thought I was lucky, wrong.
So rather than go though the pain of warranty claim here in Australia,
(8 weeks to replace a throttle body)I thought how hard can it be, it's only a switch.
Anyhow, you need to remove the lower half of the s/w block, 2 v-small torx,
hinges from rear, small clips in the front.
The bolt in end of the handlebar.
Then the bolt that holds grip, sleeve s/w block on, it's all one piece and a clamp
that holds the cables which clips onto the upper half
after that the 2 cables pull out.
The switch tested OK, fairly easy to disassemble, looks quite durable, the
same type of switch is used throughout the s/w block, so you would think that the
indicators would fail first if they were problematic.
So it must be in the wiring. The wiring is printed on flexible plastic and glued
to the assembly. Using a multimeter with sharp probes to press through the insulating varnish,
the trace running from the negative side of the switch had failed, even though it looked OK.
So I scraped away the varnish at the switch and the back of the socket
and soldered a jump wire in, tested OK in the bike, stuck it down with glue
and all's well. Seems that trace does a sharp 90 bend, so maybe that's cause??
Disclaimer
Many moons ago I repaired notebooks. So if small fiddly stuff and reasonable soldering skills
are not your strong points, go to the dealer or someone who can
