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Discussion Starter #1
I need to do a quick post in the race bike build thread... but until then... Bike had 1100 street miles, put Armour Bodies, Vortex 520 and Woodcraft CFM rear sets on, a set of Michelin eve slicks, and go. I've only ridden road atlanta once, 10 years ago, and the track was different then, so I basically had to learn this track. That said, this is from an afternoon session when I finally started to get a little more comfortable.
Enjoy.

PS.. You'll see several more RR's, there were a whole gang of em there that day.

 

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Looked like you were riding pretty good out there. I was coaching intermediate on Sunday and rode most of the advanced sessions. I was on my black BMW with a red tank


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Lol - the traffic is always crazy on the back straight, plus people brake super early for that downhill 90 degree. It's a lot of fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looked like you were riding pretty good out there. I was coaching intermediate on Sunday and rode most of the advanced sessions. I was on my black BMW with a red tank


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Pretty sure I remember the bike from in the paddock. Don't recall on track though. Most my attention was on the bike 'n track. My gearing was definitely off too. I was running stock teeth. What do you run? I think -1F would be too much. but +1 or +2 rear would probably work better.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Lol - the traffic is always crazy on the back straight, plus people brake super early for that downhill 90 degree. It's a lot of fun.
I definitely did that a few times. Not used to 200 hp lol on the r6 i'd have been on the stopper through that kink without a second thought. this thing is so effin fast! I love that first lap though where the r1 got through everyone one then the s1k is like.... cool. nice bike. cya. ;)
 

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Pretty sure I remember the bike from in the paddock. Don't recall on track though. Most my attention was on the bike 'n track. My gearing was definitely off too. I was running stock teeth. What do you run? I think -1F would be too much. but +1 or +2 rear would probably work better.

I run 16/45 at all of the tracks I was able to get 181mph on my gps lap timer in the back kink. That said I don't mess around much at every track with different gearing. I settled in on that after much trial and error on my 2011 BMW.


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Discussion Starter #7
I run 16/45 at all of the tracks I was able to get 181mph on my gps lap timer in the back kink. That said I don't mess around much at every track with different gearing. I settled in on that after much trial and error on my 2011 BMW.


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Very cool thanks. I've got a 16 I'll throw on for Barber, which I was considering anyway with no big straights... haven't been there in forever either. should be fun.
 

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I run 16/45 at all of the tracks I was able to get 181mph on my gps lap timer in the back kink. That said I don't mess around much at every track with different gearing. I settled in on that after much trial and error on my 2011 BMW.
Is your track bike a 3rd gen?
How many links do you have on your chain with -1F? 120 or 118?

Asking because I'm curious if your wheelbase is longer or shorter than OEM.
 

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The bike wheelies too much for me already. I ought to try shortening the wheelbase a little and see how that works. I ran a 1:34.71 at road Atlanta last weekend. I guess when I start racing next year I will do a little more experimentation


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When I look at the CSBK bikes up here, the wheelbase is stretched out past the midpoint of the adjustment, or even further. And most are running 16/43 or even 41 on the faster tracks.
 

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The bike wheelies too much for me already. I ought to try shortening the wheelbase a little and see how that works. I ran a 1:34.71 at road Atlanta last weekend. I guess when I start racing next year I will do a little more experimentation


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Won't shortening the wheelbase make the bike more prone to wheeling?
 

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Yes but the bike would turn quicker. Longer wheelbase also makes the bike more stable under hard braking. Lots of trade offs when making adjustments


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I understand - I thought you were trying to just control the wheelies a little more. I don't have any real trouble with wheelies - the front comes up or stays very light when I really hammer on it. I've found for my level anyway the more I'm very smooth - progressive on the throttle - I ride better.

Typically when the front really comes up on me I lose more time not only because the front is in the air but because I tend to ease off a little.

Heck these bikes are just crazy fast and every time I ride it I'm still thrilled just like when I rode one the very first time 6 years ago.
 

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Yes but the bike would turn quicker. Longer wheelbase also makes the bike more stable under hard braking. Lots of trade offs when making adjustments
This has been my dilemma. Currently with -1F, OEM rear. Wheelbase is 5mm longer, bike is more stable in braking/mid corner. But turns a bit harder.

I just got a 46T rear sprocket. This should bring wheelbase back to OEM with -1F. From gear calculator one extra rear tooth should not make a big difference. I hope it won't wheelie too much. I should have gone with 17F, +2 rear, used 120 chain. Would have all of pros, no cons IMO unless I'm missing something.
 

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This has been my dilemma. Currently with -1F, OEM rear. Wheelbase is 5mm longer, bike is more stable in braking/mid corner. But turns a bit harder.



I just got a 46T rear sprocket. This should bring wheelbase back to OEM with -1F. From gear calculator one extra rear tooth should not make a big difference. I hope it won't wheelie too much. I should have gone with 17F, +2 rear, used 120 chain. Would have all of pros, no cons IMO unless I'm missing something.

Typically pro level riders go for a longer wheelbase so they can accelerate harder and brake harder. They simply turn the bike faster with wheelspin. Most pro level riders like a higher ride height so the bike will go side to side easier as well.



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-1 and +1 gives you about 8% reduction from stock, the one tooth on the rear is only about 2%, the front is 6 percent. It won't make second gear feel like first, but it's a big enough change that you'll find you are changing gears more often. That may cause you to THINK that the bike is faster, but check your lap times. They may be slower. Someone on here was saying exactly that, I think on that old 119 link chain thread. Anyway, report back please on your findings.
 

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Typically pro level riders go for a longer wheelbase so they can accelerate harder and brake harder. They simply turn the bike faster with wheelspin. Most pro level riders like a higher ride height so the bike will go side to side easier as well.
Makes sense, one of top 10 AMA racers told me the same thing. But you know, you're pro, I'm a bro :grin2:
 

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I hesitate to comment because my track days have been few and far between. I'm nowhere close to being up to speed but...

I'm having a 520 conversion kit installed with 15/44 as the gearing. Why? Because Willie, the tuner for Cory Call swears that is what works and will work perfectly at T-Hill, Laguna and Sonoma. I said: "Are you dry shaving me?" Using just 3 gears I'm having trouble keeping the front end down at Sonoma with stock gearing. According to Willie, they are controlling the wheelies with proper ride height. Not wheel base. S1000RR's like a level chassis. They are getting this with one of those expensive ride height adjustment tools. It will be interesting to see whether they go with 118 links or 120. I did not ask. I should be riding the new config next Monday at Sonoma. :grin2: If I get the old meatball flag for having the front end in the air all the time, I'll let you know. :laugh:
 
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