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Very very small one. Hardly noticeable
Maybe someone can explain the reasons for the NRC design to me. I've seen videos of its install where I come away mystified why they didn't use the same top plate fitting shape that simply snaps into one end and then uses only two screws to attach the other. Underneath that would be the actual LED light piece, ideally with greater thickness for more salience and safety. It would have also have been a really nice touch for them to add a little switch exposed at the top (in the rear bay) that turns off all lights for track days.
 

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Maybe someone can explain the reasons for the NRC design to me. I've seen videos of its install where I come away mystified why they didn't use the same top plate fitting shape that simply snaps into one end and then uses only two screws to attach the other. Underneath that would be the actual LED light piece, ideally with greater thickness for more salience and safety. It would have also have been a really nice touch for them to add a little switch exposed at the top (in the rear bay) that turns off all lights for track days.

If you put the bike into track mode and disable the lights. Does it turn off the power/signals to the lights themselves? Or does it tell the ecu to just ignore them if they dont respond?
 

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It just tells the ECU not to display a fault, the lights still work, well, the headlights do anyway.


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Discussion Starter #45
Maybe someone can explain the reasons for the NRC design to me. I've seen videos of its install where I come away mystified why they didn't use the same top plate fitting shape that simply snaps into one end and then uses only two screws to attach the other. Underneath that would be the actual LED light piece, ideally with greater thickness for more salience and safety. It would have also have been a really nice touch for them to add a little switch exposed at the top (in the rear bay) that turns off all lights for track days.
I don’t have a answer to that. I understand what your saying but that’s the way they designed it. Maybe it came out too quick. I do hope they redesign it but I doubt that will happen. I do like how the kit looks on the bike ( much better then the long stock unit from factory) The light is nice and bright. The plate light is pretty bright too. Yes it would of been a nice touch if they had a switch for the lights. Just glad that long piece is off now


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Discussion Starter #46
It just tells the ECU not to display a fault, the lights still work, well, the headlights do anyway.


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I’m assuming that’s in race pro mode? I haven’t played with that yet but I do know in the normal 4 modes if the license plate light or turn signals are not plugged in it will display a fault code on the dash. I was making sure I had the signal wires in the correct ones and didn’t have the license plate light plugged in and a fault came up on the screen. After plugging it in and turning the bike back on the fault disappeared


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I don’t have a answer to that. I understand what your saying but that’s the way they designed it. Maybe it came out too quick. I do hope they redesign it but I doubt that will happen. I do like how the kit looks on the bike ( much better then the long stock unit from factory) The light is nice and bright. The plate light is pretty bright too. Yes it would of been a nice touch if they had a switch for the lights. Just glad that long piece is off now


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It should be easy to wire a small single pole toggle switch to the light. it can be mounted under the rear seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
It should be easy to wire a small single pole toggle switch to the light. it can be mounted under the rear seat.
You make a good point there. I honestly hate electrical. I have gotten better over the years but try to avoid it like the plague if possible. It’s not really that bad I guess if you think about it but I was happy the kit was plug and play


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Discussion Starter #50
Was the license plate light wire to short to route properly?..
Yes the wire was a bit too short if you want to mount it on the side of the subframe like stock was. Took me a bit to get it off the subframe figuring out how the tab worked. That was a oh, ok moment. The other two wires did have enough slack to go back into the metal brackets. Trust me I wanted to keep it looking like it was oem as possible. Here’s a shot of under the passenger seat with the tool kit out and how mine came out. Tried to keep the flow of wires the same. I do need to get some small black zip ties. I know it’s under the seat and people don’t see it but knowing that the wires were all over the place and not tucked in bothered me so that’s what I came up with
Stock

Mine



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It should be easy to wire a small single pole toggle switch to the light. it can be mounted under the rear seat.
It would need to switch all three lights - left, right, brake - as they come via separate wires. The NRC had the opportunity to do this in an integrated way with one switch/pole, but failed.

BMW similarly had the opportunity to make street/track conversion way easier than it is. Some quick suggestion for a model update:
  1. Use a single connector at the tail for all three lights. There should be no reason to remove the side fairing pieces, unhook three connectors, and then fish the wires out the bottom. Just remove the bottom two screws and unhook the consolidated connector. for a one-minute operation.
  2. Similarly put the front indicator connectors at the bottom of the signal stems so you don't need to remove the windshield, unhook connectors there, and fish wires through.
  3. When it detects disconnected tail lights and front indicators, enable the Track configuration menu to turn off the headlight.
Track prep should be a five-minute operation with a bike like the 2020 RR.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Put 135 miles on today so I’m at 209. 1/3 of the way done. Might have to order my exhaust a little earlier then I was hoping with the rate I’m going. No issues today with the bike. Love those warm heated grips helped a lot today. Did a few highway bursts but the majority of today was back roads. Took full advantage of being off today and it being 44 outside. Really love how nimble the bike is feeling. For the hours I was on the bike today the seat wasn’t unbearable. It isn’t soft but it’s not a brick either. Kept the bike in road mode ( I believe the suspension is a little softer in that setting then race but correct me if I’m wrong) mirrors at certain rpms are definitely a bit hard to see out of. Did notice the little bit of vibration in the bars but again not horrible. Maybe a heavier bar end could help with that. Tried cruise control for the first time for a minute. Pretty cool having that feature.



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Yes the wire was a bit too short if you want to mount it on the side of the subframe like stock was. Took me a bit to get it off the subframe figuring out how the tab worked. That was a oh, ok moment. The other two wires did have enough slack to go back into the metal brackets. Trust me I wanted to keep it looking like it was oem as possible. Here’s a shot of under the passenger seat with the tool kit out and how mine came out. Tried to keep the flow of wires the same. I do need to get some small black zip ties. I know it’s under the seat and people don’t see it but knowing that the wires were all over the place and not tucked in bothered me so that’s what I came up with
Stock

Mine



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Great reply!!.saw the youtube install vid,and guy complained about the gap,short wire,placement of screw stalks under seat..so, i ordered some a/c foam and wrapped another layer on top of nrc...and will probably splice,solder,heat shrink an extension for plate light...bike arrives early march,and i have lots of add ons waiting to install..thx for pix!
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Great reply!!.saw the youtube install vid,and guy complained about the gap,short wire,placement of screw stalks under seat..so, i ordered some a/c foam and wrapped another layer on top of nrc...and will probably splice,solder,heat shrink an extension for plate light...bike arrives early march,and i have lots of add ons waiting to install..thx for pix!
Awesome man you’ll love the bike. I kinda did the same thing... had some boxes of parts waiting before the bike even got here. Other then the plate light wire being a little short the rest of it worked out fine. The shorter wire doesn’t bother me too much it’s out of the way and looks good but more power to ya to get it back into the stock location.


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It would need to switch all three lights - left, right, brake - as they come via separate wires. The NRC had the opportunity to do this in an integrated way with one switch/pole, but failed.

BMW similarly had the opportunity to make street/track conversion way easier than it is. Some quick suggestion for a model update:
  1. Use a single connector at the tail for all three lights. There should be no reason to remove the side fairing pieces, unhook three connectors, and then fish the wires out the bottom. Just remove the bottom two screws and unhook the consolidated connector. for a one-minute operation.
  2. Similarly put the front indicator connectors at the bottom of the signal stems so you don't need to remove the windshield, unhook connectors there, and fish wires through.
  3. When it detects disconnected tail lights and front indicators, enable the Track configuration menu to turn off the headlight.
Track prep should be a five-minute operation with a bike like the 2020 RR.
You could tie all three ground wires to one leg of the switch then ground the other leg.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Congrats on the mileage! Most people want to conserve mileage but not us...
Felt great to go out gonna be awesome when it’s actually warm out. As for the mileage that would be like having a really hot significant other and ummm.. yea just letting it sit there. Now why would you do that lol. I might just bite the bullet and buy exhaust tonight


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