thank you for the tip.I had the same issue until:
1) strapped the rear wheel down
2) applied some heat(heat gun) to the nut and spline
3) use a long extension arm
initially I had my wife standing on the brake pedal, with the bike in gear, but the rear still rotated. I think applying heat was the major break-through.
washer is peeled back. I don't have air compressor (for the rattle gun) so will have to do it by hand.I just use a 1/2" rattle gun. Couple of bursts and it comes off easily. Just make sure the washer is peeled back and not holding the nut still.
I can (happily) confirm that heating does indeed work!!! Many thanks!Heat gun(hot air) and normal thread.
You clamp the sproket (which is going to be replaced, so no damage done) or the carrier (as BMW tells us to)?Always replace all 3 as a set. The front sprocket wear is normal. Mine are even more bent back. The sprocket carrier can be clamped in the vice. I clamp the sprocket and just rattle gun the nuts off while holding the bolt with a torx bit and ratchet.
I was thinking here: how crazy it is to use a corded Dewalt SDS HAMMER drill that I use for wall drilling? It has reverse, it does hammer the chuck and twists - isn't it doing exactly the same as a pneumatic or electric rattle gun (at least in theory - I don't expect that anyone is doing this, but could it work?)Just get a Milwaukee 3/8 stubby 12 volt. It's all you need. Air tools are old story now..lol.
oh, I see, thank you. It's good that I asked before attempting it then...It's different. Even though it works, principal is different. For hammer drill, mechanical it hammers downward to penetrate. Impact wrench hammers side ways to turn the nut.