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I had the same issue until:
1) strapped the rear wheel down
2) applied some heat(heat gun) to the nut and spline
3) use a long extension arm

initially I had my wife standing on the brake pedal, with the bike in gear, but the rear still rotated. I think applying heat was the major break-through.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I had the same issue until:
1) strapped the rear wheel down
2) applied some heat(heat gun) to the nut and spline
3) use a long extension arm

initially I had my wife standing on the brake pedal, with the bike in gear, but the rear still rotated. I think applying heat was the major break-through.
thank you for the tip.

heat gun as in hot air gun or flame torch?

also, do you remember the direction of undoing the nut: anti-clockwise rotation as in normal thread?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I just use a 1/2" rattle gun. Couple of bursts and it comes off easily. Just make sure the washer is peeled back and not holding the nut still.
washer is peeled back. I don't have air compressor (for the rattle gun) so will have to do it by hand.

I just realized that I will be starting the bike to heat the engine for oil change (the garage temp is 16C) - the nut holding the pinion should warm up a bit too during the engine warmup.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Heat gun(hot air) and normal thread.
I can (happily) confirm that heating does indeed work!!! Many thanks!

In case anyone is interested, I used Delboy's method of stopping the chain with a screwdriver (
@ minute 12 if you are in a hurry), then heated the nut with a heat gun set at 210C. I was checking the nut's temp with a IR thermometer, at 80C I stopped the heat gun and tried the nut with a breaker bar. It worked!!!

Now I have a new challenge in front of me: the nuts on the rear sprocket - does heating them work as well? What is the sprocket carrier made of? I tried a magnet but it doesn't stick on it.

I am asking because BMW says to fix the sprocket carrier in a soft jaws vise (I used normal vice with thick rubber on the jaws) but I would like to know how hard (or not) can one press in the vice?


209551
 

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Discussion Starter #29
can anyone please comment on the state of the rear sprocket? The front one had visible wear (I will make a picture later on), not so noticeable on the rear one though...

I have the rear sprocket too, can change it now (the only issue is removing the nuts on it :D and I don't have availbable new nuts, but can wait for them to be delivered 10-14 days, so not a BIG problem), however, if it seems OK, I can change the rear sprocket when its time come (I will buy the new nuts anyway to have them in the garage for future use).
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Here is the excessive wear of the front sprocket:

209552



but what do you think about the front? How worn does it seem?

209553
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Always replace all 3 as a set. The front sprocket wear is normal. Mine are even more bent back. The sprocket carrier can be clamped in the vice. I clamp the sprocket and just rattle gun the nuts off while holding the bolt with a torx bit and ratchet.
You clamp the sproket (which is going to be replaced, so no damage done) or the carrier (as BMW tells us to)?

I beginning to be envious of all you guys who have pneumatic tools in the garage. What kind of (litres or HP) compressor do you use for your garage (home use I assume)?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Just get a Milwaukee 3/8 stubby 12 volt. It's all you need. Air tools are old story now..lol.
I was thinking here: how crazy it is to use a corded Dewalt SDS HAMMER drill that I use for wall drilling? It has reverse, it does hammer the chuck and twists - isn't it doing exactly the same as a pneumatic or electric rattle gun (at least in theory - I don't expect that anyone is doing this, but could it work?)
 

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It's different. Even though it works, principal is different. For hammer drill, mechanical it hammers downward to penetrate. Impact wrench hammers side ways to turn the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
It's different. Even though it works, principal is different. For hammer drill, mechanical it hammers downward to penetrate. Impact wrench hammers side ways to turn the nut.
oh, I see, thank you. It's good that I asked before attempting it then...

How about heating, I managed to undo the front sprocket nut by heating. Should it work (in principle) on the rear sprocket too?
 

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Heat works but for rear sprocket nuts, breaker bar should do it. Or use the rubber hammer on ratchet handle. Works for me. And don't over tighten those nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Heat works but for rear sprocket nuts, breaker bar should do it. Or use the rubber hammer on ratchet handle. Works for me. And don't over tighten those nuts.
Thank you, will give it a try. As for tightening, I will be using bmw torque specs
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I ended up putting the rear wheel back - I was able to undo them rear sprocket nuts this way.

One major concern though at this point - when I was trying to undo the front sprocket, I used a long bar, so applied a great force (unsuccessfully at that point). I wrote then that the front sprocket seemed to rotate even though the bike was in 1st gear.

Now, when I was undoing the rear sprocket, I pressed clutch in order to rotate the wheel to get to next nut etc. The wheel would not rotate, at all!!!
no matter how many times I would depress the clutch, it just doesn't let the wheel rotate. Could I break something inside when I was undoing front? What happens when the front sprocket DOES rotate and the engine is in gear? Is it bad for the engine or gearbox?
 
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