BMW S1000RR Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What all is needed to only do fork OIL nothing else?

do I need any special fork compressor tools? and follow full tear down procedures.... I have the Haynes manual
or
Just unscrew cap on both forks (DDC) turn upside down and let it drain then refill and check fluid levels?

No need to change fork seals yet... just oil

Trying to save time and money and just replace oil but everything I've read shows full tear down procedure which I am trying to avoid honestly.

Thanks in advance!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
432 Posts
All oil levels quoted are without springs/washers/etc. to remove these and make sure you have got all the old oil out you need to remove the cap, etc which require a fork compressor(you may be able to do it without, but will be tricky).
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,402 Posts
The challenge will be to get the correct fork oil level. All the specs are given with the spring removed. Perhaps measure it before you drain and replicate the level when you refill. Cheap and nasty for sure, but I suppose it's possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
859 Posts
Measure the fluid volume that comes out and replace the same amount.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,402 Posts
That's assuming that what was in there is correct. I've found almost every time the factory fill is less than the service manual calls for. Maybe it doesn't matter that much, changing the oil is bound to improve it.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
2,075 Posts
It is more difficult to express an opinion or process on something like oil inside a fork tube.

I have rebuilt my own forks since the 80's. Springs and oil provide damping and rebound effects. The oil level is a 'recommended' amount of oil to put back in the fork. It is a 'recommended' weight of oil viscosity.

These are example only numbers I am about to use for demonstration.

Lets use 100mm from the top. Lets say this is 100ml of oil in the fork too.

There are so many things that come in to these numbers changing however. The size of spring you decide to use, the amount of air bleeding you have done during and after assembly, what type of oil you use.

So the amount of oil is not some exact number. You dont want to be +- 10mm or 10ML however. If you are within +- 3mm or 3ML however, things are going to fine. There is an air gap between the oil level and the fork retention screw in part at the top. that air gap is for the oil to expand and contract within the tube based on compression / rebound.. and even the temperature of the oil hot or cold.

Try to maintenance your bike as best as possible to the manufacture recommendations of course, but on fork oils there is some room for just get it right as possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
893 Posts
What all is needed to only do fork OIL nothing else?

do I need any special fork compressor tools? and follow full tear down procedures.... I have the Haynes manual
or
Just unscrew cap on both forks (DDC) turn upside down and let it drain then refill and check fluid levels?

No need to change fork seals yet... just oil

Trying to save time and money and just replace oil but everything I've read shows full tear down procedure which I am trying to avoid honestly.

Thanks in advance!
to do it properly you do need the spring compressor. I did mine at 30k km and was surprised at how clean the old oil was, nothing like the grey sludge that came out of my SP2 forks annually.

I got my father-in-law to make me a copy of the official BMW spring compressor, based on pics from this forum - I also bought the little collar that is used when compressing the springs.

I used the oem fork oil, there are reports its 10.5 wt, but who knows for sure. From memory I got within 3ml to get the right air gaps.

heres a link you could read, last few pages...
https://www.s1000rrforum.com/forum/167591-post1.html
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top