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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

Well I have a few newbie questions for the wisdom of the group.
I have opened up my '12 S1000RR engine to check false neutral downshifting from 3rd to 2nd.
While I'm at it, I will do the major maintenance.
If useful, bike has 6000 miles on it, and it has been a track only bike from the start.
So here we go...

1. On the forum I have seen quite a few posts mentioning plastigage crankshaft bearing shells and I see other posts just going by color code markings.
I didn't see anything in the manual about checking thickness.
So my question is do I just order the same color as what is installed or should I measure clearance and then determine proper color to reinstall based on measured thickness ?

2. I was going to replace crankshaft bearing shells, and reading the forum I see conrod bearing shells mentioned.
So my question is: should I replace conrod bearing shells as well ?

3. Since everything is opened up, I might as well replace clutch disks. Not finding much besides OEM (in Europe). I have no complaints about clutch so far, but found some info about replacement on this forum (https://www.s1000rrforum.com/forum/s1000rr-hp4-do-yourself/49474-diy-installing-factory-pro-shift-spring-brocks-clutch-mod-heavy-duty-clutch-springs.html).
Any tips or advice for replacement ? Should I stick with OEM ? Should I not even bother with replacement ?

4. Any other tips/wisdom ?

Thanks already for your help, and a happy holiday season to all !!


Oli.
'12 S1000RR - Track
'18 KTM SD GT - Work
 

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1. The service manual only mentions matching the colour combinations. No plastigage measuring. No spec is given for the clearance anyway.

2. You might as well if you're in that deep.

3. 6000 miles is nothing. The clutch will be fine. I've done 60,000kms on mine and never an issue. Hardly even touch the cable.

4. I take it you have rebuilt engines before or at least have some idea. Not something you want to attempt otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
1. The service manual only mentions matching the colour combinations. No plastigage measuring. No spec is given for the clearance anyway.

2. You might as well if you're in that deep.

3. 6000 miles is nothing. The clutch will be fine. I've done 60,000kms on mine and never an issue. Hardly even touch the cable.

4. I take it you have rebuilt engines before or at least have some idea. Not something you want to attempt otherwise.

Thanks for your answers, specially for the clutch, mine seems totally fine indeed, I like to have advice from others to get more "real world" info ...

Oli.
'12 S1000RR - Track
'18 KTM SD GT - Work
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You may be deterred from rod bearings when you see the price of parts.
Yeah, exactly... along with the bolts to be replaced :surprise:
With so few miles (albeit track miles) I wonder if it's worth it ...

Oli.
'12 S1000RR - Track
'18 KTM SD GT - Work
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Did you just split the case's to fix the gearbox issue? Or have you stripped the complete motor (cylinder head remove) if you do the Conrod shell's you will need to replace the Conrod Bolt's.
Yes, I did just remove bottom case to look at the gearbox. I'm just hoping I will notice if something is not right in there (apparently sometimes dog teeth ?!?)
Since the engine was out I did a valve check: all in spec, just one intake valve right at the tight limit. 0:)

Oli.
'12 S1000RR - Track
'18 KTM SD GT - Work
 

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I had an engine with a bad rod bearing. By the time i bought a rod, found a crank and replaced the rod and crank bearings it was considerably cheaper to buy a good used motor. Rebuilds are quite expensive for this motor if they are done right.
 

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Hello all,

Well I have a few newbie questions for the wisdom of the group.
I have opened up my '12 S1000RR engine to check false neutral downshifting from 3rd to 2nd.
While I'm at it, I will do the major maintenance.
If useful, bike has 6000 miles on it, and it has been a track only bike from the start.
So here we go...

1. On the forum I have seen quite a few posts mentioning plastigage crankshaft bearing shells and I see other posts just going by color code markings.
I didn't see anything in the manual about checking thickness.
So my question is do I just order the same color as what is installed or should I measure clearance and then determine proper color to reinstall based on measured thickness ?

2. I was going to replace crankshaft bearing shells, and reading the forum I see conrod bearing shells mentioned.
So my question is: should I replace conrod bearing shells as well ?

3. Since everything is opened up, I might as well replace clutch disks. Not finding much besides OEM (in Europe). I have no complaints about clutch so far, but found some info about replacement on this forum (https://www.s1000rrforum.com/forum/s1000rr-hp4-do-yourself/49474-diy-installing-factory-pro-shift-spring-brocks-clutch-mod-heavy-duty-clutch-springs.html).
Any tips or advice for replacement ? Should I stick with OEM ? Should I not even bother with replacement ?

4. Any other tips/wisdom ?

Thanks already for your help, and a happy holiday season to all !!


Oli.
'12 S1000RR - Track
'18 KTM SD GT - Work
You'll probably not find anything wrong. I bought a HP4 in 2012 and raced it to the end of 2015. I found that the false neutral occurs after oil change, which I probably did too often. I thought better to change oil and filter frequently because of working the engine hard all the time. Nevertheless, I started a habit of doing a track day or two after oil change before racing and never change oil the day before the race, not ideal, but that seemed to work for me. Traded that at the end of 2015 on a new HP4, and guess what, same issue during the first couple of sessions after oil change, must be a beemer thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You'll probably not find anything wrong. I bought a HP4 in 2012 and raced it to the end of 2015. I found that the false neutral occurs after oil change, which I probably did too often. I thought better to change oil and filter frequently because of working the engine hard all the time. Nevertheless, I started a habit of doing a track day or two after oil change before racing and never change oil the day before the race, not ideal, but that seemed to work for me. Traded that at the end of 2015 on a new HP4, and guess what, same issue during the first couple of sessions after oil change, must be a beemer thing.
Thanks for your post. Half of me hopes to not find anything wrong indeed, but the other half would be disappointed of all the work for nothing:serious:

Not sure it's linked to oil change in my case, I change the oil+filter during the winter, as I do about 8-10 trackdays a year.
This issue started middle of the year, and the last 3 trackdays of year, had the missed downshift once or twice per day :frown2:

Oli.
'12 S1000RR - Track
'18 KTM SD GT - Work
 
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