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Once again these cam chains are the issue.

Love these bikes so much but these cam chain issues are annoying.

Love BMW warranty.

Glad you sorted it out mate.

now you can go back to enjoying the best bike ever.

0:)
 

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It's hard to hear much in the video, but I would not rule out the timing chain tensioner. I've had that problem on a different bike and clutch in vs clutch out made a difference in the rattle even though it was not a clutch problem.

Oops, somehow missed an entire page of this thread. Sounds like you got it sorted so good deal.
 

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Wow you guys are lucky. My dealer wouldn't fix mine. He kept telling me it was normal. Their loss, it cost them any future bike purchases and I was all set to buy a new S1000XR. I'm looking at Yamaha FJ-09s now.

I am going to make it a point to tell everyone my experience. If you buy from Sportland in Champaign Illinois you may have similar experiences.
 

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Does the sound go away when you engage the clutch?
I know I'm bringing this back from the dead, but lets say his answer was "yes, it goes away when you engage the clutch" then what would you say?

I've been doing a watch and wait on my bike with this exact issue for the past 5 months now. It's been brought up many times on here and you get the following answers:
1) They all do that, no worries
2) Slack in the header valve (exhaust servo)
3) Improper adjustment on clutch cable
4) Cam chain tensioner
5) Clutch springs loose
6) Something in the clutch basket

Now it's the off season and I want to have this remedied by next season. My issue is described PERFECTLY in all of the OP's posts in this thread so I know we have an identical issue. Everyone that has this issues described it in almost the same fashion and received one of the diagnosis mentioned above 1-6.
I've pretty much ruled out #2 and #3 unless I was doing something incorrectly. I placed finger on cable near header to try and make the noise/clunk stop, change cadence, quite down etc etc... with no success. I've adjusted clutch cable and no difference.

I have not pulled timer cover or clutch cover (because i don't know what I'm looking for). I just never leave it in neutral without having the clutch lever pulled in (pain in the ass) because the noise and clunk is so off putting that I tell myself "boy, that can't be doing the bike any favors, whatever that clunk is."

When I hear people say that their dealership guessed cam chain and it ended up being clutch or vise versa, that makes me think "does anybody really know the cause, or are these all just guesses?"
When I hear people say that they switched to full exhauist system and it went away, that just adds to the confusion.

I just need clarity! Ugh, this is driving me crazy. I need some help forming a sound course of action, please and thank you.
 

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Most likely it's the springs on back of the clutch basket. They are anti hop springs and are riveted into the basket and not serviceable. Replacement of the basket is needed. About 1100 from BMW.
I'm very familiar with this issue and it's so commonly misdiagnosed. My R1 had it, and my s1k does as well. They just wear out.
Clutch rattles in N but not when you pull the lever. I'm not yet too brushed up on cam chain issues with this bike, but that was a common mis-diagnosis for this issue with R1s as well.
For anyone here with this issue, I suggest removing your clutch and verifying. Take everything out, plates, springs and pull the actual basket. Shake it. If it rattles, there ya go.
I'm utterly confident that this is the rattling that I see going around. I have it myself. Now if it's not that, and you've verified the basket (no way to check without removing the whole clutch) and it persists, then yes, something else is at work.
 

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I've never hear of "clutch rattle" in a wet clutch. Also, the video posted is on the WRONG side for the clutch.
 

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It is NOT a rattle. It is a massive audible and tactile CLUNK over and over again. There are many threads on this, including one I have made. The issue is described perfectly over and over again in this thread, mine and others, and never once in an accurate description should the word "rattle" be used. Again, it is not a rattle.

And did you read the comments on the video? Even the OP of video said it ended up not being the springs... common man. I'm not ruling out something in the clutch but it would have to be something "catching" like metal on metal and glancing off. Whatever it is, it does not seem to throw shavings into the oil--This again, adds to the confusion. How could there be such an audible, tactile, and repeated clunking noise and NO shavings in the oil? Maybe just an inherent noise? Maybe exhaust valve? Maybe all the other things everyone else has ever guessed? No clue. I'm losing my mind.

Here is my original post. http://www.s1000rrforum.com/forum/s...us-neutral-clicking-clunking-need-advice.html

Now, I remember someone talking about the output shaft/intermediate shaft and how theoretically, this or something in close proximity to, could be the only mechanical things making noise when the bike is in neutral, clutch engaged/disengaged. Since the noise sounds like a pop top getting stuck in the garbage disposal, it leads me to believe that there is speed associated with the metal on metal contact.
Could this video be onto something? Why wouldn't somebody have figured this out by now? Seems like a pretty obscure thing to have go wrong or a pretty far stretch.
 

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Svikis88

I had a 2012 and it had the same noise that would go away when i pulled in the clutch . I replace all the all the springs and the clutch plates and it went away . My bike had 29 K on it when i did this.

I used the Ape Track King Kit . listed below . You'll need to re use the 2 metal rings like hoops that fit inside # 5-6


. Just make sure you pay attention when you take it appart and even take some pics. The service manual has detailed information .
I also bought and replace all OEM clutch springs and followed the brocks installation guide and the BMW Tech manual

21 21 7 724 789 OEM Clutch SPRING SET includes all 6 coil springs ,cups, screws and 3 leaf type springs


http://www.brocksperformance.com/Instructions/S1000RR/992560.pdf



Ape King clutch plates
TKCB1000RR

https://store.schnitzracing.com/ape-trac-king-clutch-plate-kit-bmw-s1000rr-10-15/

you will also find the Brocks spring kit here but I belive its missing the leaf type springs

This worked for me until I traded in my bike @ 36K

Good Luck what ever you decide to do.
 

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Svikis88

I had a 2012 and it had the same noise that would go away when i pulled in the clutch . I replace all the all the springs and the clutch plates and it went away . My bike had 29 K on it when i did this.

I used the Ape Track King Kit . listed below . You'll need to re use the 2 metal rings like hoops that fit inside # 5-6


. Just make sure you pay attention when you take it appart and even take some pics. The service manual has detailed information .
I also bought and replace all OEM clutch springs and followed the brocks installation guide and the BMW Tech manual

21 21 7 724 789 OEM Clutch SPRING SET includes all 6 coil springs ,cups, screws and 3 leaf type springs


http://www.brocksperformance.com/Instructions/S1000RR/992560.pdf



Ape King clutch plates
TKCB1000RR

https://store.schnitzracing.com/ape-trac-king-clutch-plate-kit-bmw-s1000rr-10-15/

you will also find the Brocks spring kit here but I belive its missing the leaf type springs

This worked for me until I traded in my bike @ 36K

Good Luck what ever you decide to do.
Thank you for taking the time to post that information, I really appreciate it.

I will be diving into the clutch/basket for general inspection after the 3 test & tune days that we have left this season. If my clutch could use an update, I will be putting in the APE and recommended parts. Might just turn this thing into a drag strip queen over the winter since its looking like maybe I'll never have time to hit the track days :crying: But hey, then I will have an excuse to buy a new bike for the track :grin2:
 

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NP thats how we roll on this Forum :grin2:

Also Just a thought if you plan on making this a drag bike you may want to check out the brocks kit that is supposed to disable the slipper funtion of your clutch.
 
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I know sometimes these noises can drive people nuts. I also know that those damper springs are a loose fit in a brand new hub, so they start out loose enough to rattle, and then possibly get worse. The rattle also can depend on how rough the engine is at idle, the less smooth it is the more they will rattle as the input shaft chases the crankshaft over and over.
The cam chain is more of a rattle on startup. The 2014 R my wife has started life OK, but the chain started rattling after about 7 months. When the "updated" chain and sprockets came out, and the tensioner PUMA (see Beenymx's posts elsewhere) I discussed replacement with my dealer. No problem, new chain, new sprockets, new tensioner and all is dead quiet. But it still makes the clutch noise, that is more or less normal (as others have said) for a production 4 cylinder engine with a gear driven clutch (as opposed to the old chain drive that used to damp out the power pulses).
Don't give up on the bike, there can be exceptions and issues. Let your dealer help you out. The dealer where you bought the bike. The dealer where you go for service. If you think of them as a "stealership" then you're probably going to be on your own when it comes to this stuff. You have a right to expect the product to perform, as they have a right to be treated with respect. Well most of them anyway.
 

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My 2017 model with just under 5000km makes the clunk noise on idle, mostly when warming up, and reduces once it's up to normal operating temp. It can be felt through the bars too. It used to worry me a lot but now I'm used to it.
 

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Thanks for all the input, guys. I know this has been covered ad nauseam on this forum but I just needed some more info.

The bike has done this from day one, yet never an issue. Maybe one day I'll have the backbone to let it sit in Neutral without having the clutch pulled. Until then, I'll just keep holding on because that noise makes me cringe.
 

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Just wanted to put this info out there from my experiences. I recently bought an s1000rr with the infamous “clutch rattle in neutral noise”. I have diagnosed it as the clutch basket and found this aftermarket clutch basket for anyone else looking for a more permanent and less expensive solution. ($700 vs the oem $1200 basket).

This noise/vibration isn’t caused by the “loose” dampening springs shaking. It’s caused my the springs losing their integrity and the extra gear lash without load (I.e. neutral). If you put the bike on a rear stand and drop the bike into 1st you will hear the same noise as neutral and it will go away when you apply the rear brake, essentially putting load onto the clutch basket.

For those with more craftsmanship, it may be possible to drill out the rivets, replace the dampening springs inside the basket (with stronger/longer ones?) and install new rivets for a tighter basket potentially curing the for-mentioned issues. Just a thought as it would be much cheaper and sustainable as you would only need rivets and dampening springs. Hardest part would be finding the correct rivets and springs.

Repair current basket:

Here’s a video of bad clutch basket. Read video description for more signs of worn out basket.

Aftermarket Basket:
 

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I've got this "random clunk in neutral while idling unless the clutch is pulled in" issue, same as the OP...
 

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I have this issue, but without knowing what specifically the fix is I'm stumped. Also cant be without the bike for the time it would take to mail parts to the US and wait for their return.

I was at the dealers yesterday and asked a mech about it, he had no idea, said book it in, they'll pull the clutch cover and take a look.

Oil is good, Castrol Power 4T 5w40
 
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