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A little is normal. Clean your puck sides when putting in new pads. Soft brush and some isopropal alcohol, 99%. Let them dry before pushing back for the new pads.
 

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You also need to establish the proper routine when reinstalling the front wheel to ensure everything is lined up properly. Dave Moss has a good video about it.
 

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Is a little brake pad contact normal or should the front wheel spin freely?
This was my first BMW. So I didn’t know that the one side was a captive wheel spacer and I undid both sides for the pinch bolts. When I tightened everything down the spacer was too far out and the front wheel speed sensor was rubbing the wheel speed bracket. So make sure it’s not rubbing there. Other than that a slight run is normal. Make sure when you change your wheel that before you tighten the calipers down all the way, sling the wheel as fast as you can and pull hard on the brake lever. Do this a couple times and then tighten the caliper bolts
 

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One Problem

One problem with the Dave Moss video.
He has left the brake calipers Hanging by the brake lines after removing the caliper bolts.
The brake calipers hanging by the brake lines is a BIG No-No !!!!!
You are stressing the brake braided line and or the braided line fittings in a way that could compromise the integrity of the components.

I have been schooled in support the the brake calipers on the front stand or any other means of support,Not the brake lines themselves.

Just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
One problem with the Dave Moss video.
He has left the brake calipers Hanging by the brake lines after removing the caliper bolts.
The brake calipers hanging by the brake lines is a BIG No-No !!!!!
You are stressing the brake braided line and or the braided line fittings in a way that could compromise the integrity of the components.

I have been schooled in support the the brake calipers on the front stand or any other means of support,Not the brake lines themselves.

Just my 2 cents.
Interesting the both the KTM andBMW dealer in Stuttgart allows their mechanics to do this... As I have observed. I think on some bikes (cheap) it’s an issue but a high performance motorcycle with proper brake lines is no issue. Just my observation.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A little is normal. Clean your puck sides when putting in new pads. Soft brush and some isopropal alcohol, 99%. Let them dry before pushing back for the new pads.
What I am saying is there is a little friction built in by brembo. If it was sooo important to rid friction. Brembo with all their engineering prowess would have placed springs in the calipers to retract them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You also need to establish the proper routine when reinstalling the front wheel to ensure everything is lined up properly. Dave Moss has a good video about it.
Thank you, I’m asking a question on technically how is the brembo brake calipers supposed to perform. I always had a little friction even with a brand new bike off the show room. I thought this slight bit of friction was built in to keep the system warm. If you have high performance brake pads they won’t work right after several miles in cool temperatures on an autobahn.

The book says never loosen the left side pinch bolts that alleviated worrying about alignment.
 

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There's very little to retract the pads when brake pressure goes back to zero. That's why it's critical to keep the pistons clean (the buildup of brake dust will hinder the retraction of the pads) AND it's also important to ensure that everything is aligned properly before tightening all the fasteners. In short, bounce the front end a few times after you tighten the axle but before you tighten the clamp bolts. After the clamp bolts are tight, put the front wheel back on the stand a verify that it runs free before you reinstall the calipers. If you just torque the axle and the clamp bolts you can end up with misaligned parts and a lot of drag. Elimination of drag is more horsepower for free, don't miss out.
 

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There's very little to retract the pads when brake pressure goes back to zero. That's why it's critical to keep the pistons clean (the buildup of brake dust will hinder the retraction of the pads) AND it's also important to ensure that everything is aligned properly before tightening all the fasteners. In short, bounce the front end a few times after you tighten the axle but before you tighten the clamp bolts. After the clamp bolts are tight, put the front wheel back on the stand a verify that it runs free before you reinstall the calipers. If you just torque the axle and the clamp bolts you can end up with misaligned parts and a lot of drag. Elimination of drag is more horsepower for free, don't miss out.
Great post!
 
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