No advice on settings? Just that when the front dives, it dives?
DDC has 9.5 and 11.5 front springs, not soft at all
DDC has complaints of no feeling mid corner, because DDC opens valving to better follow the road surface when leaned over. This is to ensure the same force required to move chassis up 1" at 45 degrees of lean is the same as when chassis is vertical.
I'm curious to know why I need a budget for the front end, care to enlighten? I only have one season of track experience and always like to hear from those with more :grin2: especially from someone with 11 years and is only +5 off of course records
I do not know your current settings, I do not know how your bike behaves, I do not know what kind of changes you would like to make to your bikes behaviour. Based on that, how could I give any advice on settings? I or anybody else could give you some random lottery generic settings, but they are as useful to you as a zip tie in your bikes front fork or in your wrist.
And related to that: That is why I like data loggers. Because the driver might be lying unwittingly to himself. Data does not lie, and it will tell you everything about the front end if you have the sensor. And the 2D data logger is plug and play, fits any YM (easy to sell), easy to use, it will tell you Everything about the bike, and it is cheap as hell when compaired to its features.
9.5&11.5 is kind of soft for 220 lbs rider. For comparison: I'm about the same weight, 11.5 springs, 40 mm sag, additonal 5 mm front end total travel (K-TechDDS cartridges), and front end (still) bottoms out with maximum braking.
If you want to convert a stock street bike to a track only bike, you need a budget. If you have zero-budget, then you have a mass production stock street bike with mass production stock street bike suspension which is aimed for free spirited office workers riding on streets, and that sets some limits.
But, back to generic settings, step one: Do you know what is a top out spring(s)? And how it works etc?
If you do not, then for example:
Apply full preload setting to front forks.
Lift your bikes front end up to the air. Put a zip tie in to the bikes front fork (Did I just say that!?), lift the zip tie up to the cup, and then press down the font wheel and see if the front fork extends just a bit and retracts.
If it extends then you can use full preload setting without losing the sensitivity of the front end when front end is fully extended. In most cases the top out spring is designed so that it should work up to full preload. But you have to test it to make sure.
If it does not extend, loosen up preload one turn at a time and see when you are able extend the front fork when pressing down the front wheel. Then you know when you start to lose some of the front fork sensitivity when fully extended vs preload setting. It is not a big thing, but nice to know.
Also, press down the front wheel and keep it there, lift the zip tie up to the cup, and measure total length between zip tie and fork bottom. That is the free length of the front fork to be used when measuring sag. It is easyest to measure with vernier caliper.