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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone,

I got a major issue (I think) which I can't seem to solve nor do I get any good feedback/help from my local mechanics. My hope lies with you and I honestly think you will have better ideas than them. I'll try to be as thorough as I can be. Should probably mention that this is a declining(?) issue, it has gradually become worse.

According to my local shop the ECU doesnt give any error codes or warnings, nor are there any in the display.

Short summary:

Bike wont catch, it cranks fine. Everything primes. I can smell gas if I try to start it several times. Bike starts good with battery booster (150ampere) but this is also becoming harder. Shop did regular service of oil, airfilter, spark plugs and checked the valve clearance = bike started without issues. I ride it once and bike wouldnt start without battery booster.

I checked voltage during idle, running and with gas - no issues they look good
I tried with different batteries - no difference
I tried cleaning all the connectors on the start motor for example - no difference
I tried to ground it via other "points" - no difference
I checked fuses - nothing looks bad
I followed and checked as much of the cables/wiring as I can - nothing looks bad

Long summary:

The bike is a BMW S1000RR 2010 (European "model" if that matters) with 15500 (25000km) miles on it. It has undergone all scheduled services with extra oil changes for good measure.

Last summer the gas wire broke off (fun experience) which had to be replaced. Once replaced everything worked fine until suddenly one day after stopping to put some gas into it it wouldnt start. It cranks just fine and everything sounds like it should but it just wont catch. I tried a few times and eventually it started. The next day it started fine, I rode for a few hours and stopping in between without issues. Let it sit for a few hours and then it wouldnt start.

That's basically a long story kept short, or at least that is how everything started.

These issues came and went, it could start just fine for several days and then suddenly it wouldn't catch or it started after a few tries. My initial thought was of course "bad battery". After a month or so the issues started to come more often until the bike wouldn't start without an external battery booster. So I went to my local shop where they measured the battery and concluded that it was "dead". I bought not one but two new batteries. One YTZ10S and one YTZ14S. The mechanics told me YTZ10S wouldnt be good enough (even tho BMW recommended it) thats why I bought the second one YTZ14S.

Neither of these batteries improved the process of starting the bike. It still wouldnt catch if I didnt use a battery booster. But the start motor sounds fine and everything else "primes" from what I can hear and see.

So I called my local mechanics again and explained the issue to them once again and I also booked a scheduled service, the one with valve clearance. They did the service BEFORE troubleshooting the bike. The service was: Oil and oil filter, airfilter, brakeoil, valve clearance check and spark plugs.

After the service when they put everything back togheter the bike would start without any hesitation at all. We tried to start it several times over 3 days and it worked flawlessly. So I took the bike for a short run and went back to my garage. I went back the day after and it wouldn't start... same issue.

I checked voltage during idle, running and with gas - no issues they look good
I tried with different batteries - no difference
I tried cleaning all the connectors on the start motor for example - no difference
I tried to ground it via other "points" - no difference
I checked fuses - nothing looks bad
I followed and checked as much of the cables/wiring as I can - nothing looks bad

What more can I do? I've been looking through every forum I can find and all posts I can find regarding a s1000rr which wont catch...

Please, please help me someone. I would be eternally grateful!
 

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Does it have an alarm system? Bad gas? Ignition key only key on keyring? What's the voltage drop when starting on oem spec battery? What is the running voltage at idle? What about 4krpm? What do you mean it's getting harder to start with booster?

Sounds like an electrical issue or clogged injectors from bad batch of gas that's come back to haunt you
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Once I crank it with a battery booster it runs perfectly. I've changed gas two times even put some fuel injector cleaning in it.

No alarm system, yes only ignition key. Voltage at idle is around 13.4 (if I recall) and at 4k RPM it was at around ~14.7.

It started 10 out of 10 times with battery booster but lately that number has decreased, now it's starting maybe 7 out of 10 times with battery booster connected.

Spoke to a friend of mine whom suggested to reset the adaption levels in the ECU, will try that.
 

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Once I crank it with a battery booster it runs perfectly. I've changed gas two times even put some fuel injector cleaning in it.

No alarm system, yes only ignition key. Voltage at idle is around 13.4 (if I recall) and at 4k RPM it was at around ~14.7.

It started 10 out of 10 times with battery booster but lately that number has decreased, now it's starting maybe 7 out of 10 times with battery booster connected.

Spoke to a friend of mine whom suggested to reset the adaption levels in the ECU, will try that.
I think you've been killing your batteries and now you are running down your battery booster? Do you use trickle charger to keep batteries and booster fully charged when not in use?
 

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It's sounds like an issue I have every once and awhile with my 02 R6... one of three things 1. Bad ignition module... 2. Bad stator... or 3. Bad Rectifier/Regulator


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think you've been killing your batteries and now you are running down your battery booster? Do you use trickle charger to keep batteries and booster fully charged when not in use?
Unfortunately I've tried charging the different batteries with a Ctek over several hours and days BEFORE trying the booster. No difference at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
It's sounds like an issue I have every once and awhile with my 02 R6... one of three things 1. Bad ignition module... 2. Bad stator... or 3. Bad Rectifier/Regulator


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks, will look into this! The lights are dimming when I try to start the bike, not sure if that helps or perhaps solidifies your thoughts but according to google that could be a sign of a bad regulator.
 

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13.4v at idle is not enough. It should be 14+ at idle and when rpm is increased. The battery is dying because it's not being charged. Sure the bike will start and run off a jump pack but after that it's running off the battery only. Which doesn't last long. Do a diode check on the regulator and check the output of the stator and also a short to ground check on all 3 phases of the stator. Something is not charging the battery fully here.
Also make sure the fuel pump primes when you turn the key on. Other checks which it probably isn't in this case are side stand switch or tps needs to be reset. Most likely not these as it starts with a jump pack.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
13.4v at idle is not enough. It should be 14+ at idle and when rpm is increased. The battery is dying because it's not being charged. Sure the bike will start and run off a jump pack but after that it's running off the battery only. Which doesn't last long. Do a diode check on the regulator and check the output of the stator and also a short to ground check on all 3 phases of the stator. Something is not charging the battery fully here.
Also make sure the fuel pump primes when you turn the key on. Other checks which it probably isn't in this case are side stand switch or tps needs to be reset. Most likely not these as it starts with a jump pack.
Thanks, will try to do this. Its a little bit above my knowledge but will try it with a friend.
 

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Thanks, will look into this! The lights are dimming when I try to start the bike, not sure if that helps or perhaps solidifies your thoughts but according to google that could be a sign of a bad regulator.


Ricks motorsports has good videos on how to check the stator and R/R on YouTube


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys, will look into the stator/regulator thingies. Good thing about this is that I'm learning shitloads of things about my bike... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hello again,

Not sure if I'm allowed to post links or not but I found what I believe might be causing the issue or has caused the issue.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

I removed the two connectors on the "voltage regulator" and found water or an oil based solution inside one of the connectors (see picture). The other one was dry and more of what I suspected to find since it should be an enclosed environment(?). Cleaned the one with water/oil inside of it, pretty sure it was water even tho it is slightly brownish because it was extremely easy to get rid of. Sprayed some WD40 and will let it sit for a day or two.

Maybe this has caused permanent damage to the voltage regulator and I have to swap it/the connectors. But we will see... What do you guys think?
 

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Oil in the connector form the stator is normal. That's how they are. The stator is inside the engine case and gets covered in oil. I have replaced my stator on my old bike when it shorted to ground. It's not your issue.
did you see the pictures? it's the r/r in the pictures which is exposed to the elements. definitely should NOT be liquid in the connector which would short it out...
 

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did you see the pictures? it's the r/r in the pictures which is exposed to the elements. definitely should NOT be liquid in the connector which would short it out...
The Reg and stator need to be checked as I stated in my first post. If it's shorted it will take 2 seconds to diagnose. The reg's I have removed normally have a small amount of oil in them.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Oh... crap :)

Was so excited to find residue of something inside the connector. Just looked wrong to a novice eyes.

On another note... when I put the bike on "ignition" yesterday it didnt make the usual clicking sound from the relays which seemed weird. Tried to start it - nothing. Turned it off and then back to "ignition" and I could hear the clicking sounds again. Still didnt start ofcourse.

Anyway, I will measure as we have said earlier I just didnt have the right tools to get the bracket with the r/r of the bike. Will let you know how that goes ofcourse. Thanks for your replys!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Checked all the fuses they looked fine. Been thinking about replacing the fuses and relays just for good measure. Looks like I have some things to check/do now. Will let you know how it goes. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hello friends,

Just an update: After a few hours of troubleshooting at a good bike shop they concluded that the ECU was bad. They tried changing a few different parts with another S1000RR 2010 until eventually swapping the entire ECU.

Bike started 10 out of 10 times with the other ECU but as soon as they switched back to my old ECU it didnt start.

They are not sure what broke it, perhaps me boosting the bike/battery several times burnt it. They did find cables from an old PCV still "half connected" which could also be the bad guy here. Only error codes they could see from the old ECU were "low voltage" and "high voltage".

Anyway, they will swap ECU and hopefully the issue wont come back.

Been thinking of swapping the cable harness just for good measure...

Thanks everyone for the feedback/tips!
 
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