Basic Suspension set up
Basic suspension set up is pretty much the same for any sportbike with Non Electronic shocks and forks
Here are some basics to think about before we get into the actual settings
The first thing we want to get right are the spring rates. :surprise:
The rates are based on:
Rider weight, seating position, (your height affects this, as well as rearset position), bike use.
Swingarm length (gearing) We like to see a 600 mm swingarm length, measured from the center of the swingarm pivot bolt, to the center of the axle.
Swingarm pivot height.
Front and rear ride height, (not as much as you would think)
Different offset triple clamps, The 2010 and 2011 bikes use a 32 mm offset, the 2012 and newer bikes use a 29.6 mm offset , the best offset for track use, seems to be 27 to 28 mm.
As you lower the offset number, you increase trail, (another worthwhile discussion), the first thing you notice as you change to 27 or 28 mm offset is you can “feel” what the front tire is doing as you initiate a turn, the time between starting to lean in and getting you knee on the ground, it is vague, until you get the offset changed.
The S1000RR/HP4 have a lot of weight on the front forks, this means we use a fairly stiff fork spring
Here is what I recommend:
Front forks, for S1000RR/HP4 all years
We are looking for a RIDER Sag number of 38 to 40 MM, for racing 35 to 38 mm
Once you have adjusted the spring preload to get these numbers, we look at How much preload you have had to use. If the forks have 15 turns of preload adjustability and you have used 3 turned the springs are on the still side for you, or if you have used 13 turns of preload, the springs are on the still side.
Neither is wrong, depending on your use of the bike. For street use a softer spring will deliver a softer ride, with more bike movement. For track use, as the bike will see higher speeds, you may need a stiffer bike with less movement, and a stiffer spring.
Note with Ohlins fork products, forks, and Cartridge kits, you can use different rate springs in each fork, so a 10.0 Nmm in the left and a 9.5 Nmm in the right equals a 9.75 Nmm average.
All weights are Rider weight WITHOUT Gear
All spring rates are in Nmm
As a general rule we tend to go on the stiffer side for track use. The speeds are higher at any racetrack than on the street.
10 N/mm Equals 1.019 Kg/mm or 57.1 Lbs/inch
Front forks
130 to 160 lbs 9.5/9.5 to 9.5/10.0 Nmm
160 to 190 Lbs 10.0/10.0 to 10.0/10.5 Nmm
190 to 220 Lbs 10.5/10.5 to 10.5/11.0 Nmm
220 to 240 lbs 11.0/11.0 to 11.0 /11.5 Nmm
240 to 260 lbs 11.5/11.5 to 11.5/12.0 Nmm
100 N/mm equals 10.19 KG/mm or 571 lbs/inch
Rear shocks
145 to 165 lbs 85 Nmm
165 to 185 Lbs 90 Nmm
185 to 205 Lbs 95Nmm
205 to 225 lbs 100 Nmm
225 to 245 lbs 105 Nmm
245 to 265 lbs 110 Nmm
For the rear RIDER sag we like to see 28 to 30 mm for street use and 25 to 28 for track use.
After the rear Rider sag is set, we use rear Static sag as a check for the spring rate
The rear Static sag should be between 5 to 15 mm
For the front forks
We are looking for a RIDER Sag number of 38 to 40 MM, for racing 35 to 38 mm
What is Rider sag?
Rider sag is the difference between NO rider on the bike, and the front or rear wheel in the air meaning the suspension is FULLY extended and then with the rider on the bike
At the rear the measurement is done at the rear axle going 90 degrees up, I usually tape on a tape measure so it does not move
At the front I measure from the edge of the dust seal in line with the fork tube, to where the fork tube screws into the fork bottom, the fork bottom, is the part the axle goes thru.
What is Static sag?
Static sag is the measurement done using just the weight of the bike, NO RIDER. Measured the same way as rider sag.
Basic suspension set up is pretty much the same for any sportbike with Non Electronic shocks and forks
Here are some basics to think about before we get into the actual settings
The first thing we want to get right are the spring rates. :surprise:
The rates are based on:
Rider weight, seating position, (your height affects this, as well as rearset position), bike use.
Swingarm length (gearing) We like to see a 600 mm swingarm length, measured from the center of the swingarm pivot bolt, to the center of the axle.
Swingarm pivot height.
Front and rear ride height, (not as much as you would think)
Different offset triple clamps, The 2010 and 2011 bikes use a 32 mm offset, the 2012 and newer bikes use a 29.6 mm offset , the best offset for track use, seems to be 27 to 28 mm.
As you lower the offset number, you increase trail, (another worthwhile discussion), the first thing you notice as you change to 27 or 28 mm offset is you can “feel” what the front tire is doing as you initiate a turn, the time between starting to lean in and getting you knee on the ground, it is vague, until you get the offset changed.
The S1000RR/HP4 have a lot of weight on the front forks, this means we use a fairly stiff fork spring
Here is what I recommend:
Front forks, for S1000RR/HP4 all years
We are looking for a RIDER Sag number of 38 to 40 MM, for racing 35 to 38 mm
Once you have adjusted the spring preload to get these numbers, we look at How much preload you have had to use. If the forks have 15 turns of preload adjustability and you have used 3 turned the springs are on the still side for you, or if you have used 13 turns of preload, the springs are on the still side.
Neither is wrong, depending on your use of the bike. For street use a softer spring will deliver a softer ride, with more bike movement. For track use, as the bike will see higher speeds, you may need a stiffer bike with less movement, and a stiffer spring.
Note with Ohlins fork products, forks, and Cartridge kits, you can use different rate springs in each fork, so a 10.0 Nmm in the left and a 9.5 Nmm in the right equals a 9.75 Nmm average.
All weights are Rider weight WITHOUT Gear
All spring rates are in Nmm
As a general rule we tend to go on the stiffer side for track use. The speeds are higher at any racetrack than on the street.
10 N/mm Equals 1.019 Kg/mm or 57.1 Lbs/inch
Front forks
130 to 160 lbs 9.5/9.5 to 9.5/10.0 Nmm
160 to 190 Lbs 10.0/10.0 to 10.0/10.5 Nmm
190 to 220 Lbs 10.5/10.5 to 10.5/11.0 Nmm
220 to 240 lbs 11.0/11.0 to 11.0 /11.5 Nmm
240 to 260 lbs 11.5/11.5 to 11.5/12.0 Nmm
100 N/mm equals 10.19 KG/mm or 571 lbs/inch
Rear shocks
145 to 165 lbs 85 Nmm
165 to 185 Lbs 90 Nmm
185 to 205 Lbs 95Nmm
205 to 225 lbs 100 Nmm
225 to 245 lbs 105 Nmm
245 to 265 lbs 110 Nmm
For the rear RIDER sag we like to see 28 to 30 mm for street use and 25 to 28 for track use.
After the rear Rider sag is set, we use rear Static sag as a check for the spring rate
The rear Static sag should be between 5 to 15 mm
For the front forks
We are looking for a RIDER Sag number of 38 to 40 MM, for racing 35 to 38 mm
What is Rider sag?
Rider sag is the difference between NO rider on the bike, and the front or rear wheel in the air meaning the suspension is FULLY extended and then with the rider on the bike
At the rear the measurement is done at the rear axle going 90 degrees up, I usually tape on a tape measure so it does not move
At the front I measure from the edge of the dust seal in line with the fork tube, to where the fork tube screws into the fork bottom, the fork bottom, is the part the axle goes thru.
What is Static sag?
Static sag is the measurement done using just the weight of the bike, NO RIDER. Measured the same way as rider sag.
