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Discussion Starter #1
I've done a lot of reading and I'm still seeing things all over the place. Also my bike is the older one so the stock geometry is different than most of the posts that I see. At the moment I'm a stock front end (I don't recall how much fork leg I have showing up top or my settings. The bike is not with me but I can get that info). My forks do need to be serviced which will happen before the season starts (I'm in Minnesota). I'll admit I have not set sag yet so that could be a contributing factor. I have a TTX in the rear which was quite underwhelming when I installed it. Pirelli SC2's 200 series.

My problem is the bike seems so neutral and numb its almost uninspiring. Its hard to explain but I feel almost nothing when I'm riding it, it is track only. If you asked me what was good or bad about it I couldn't tell you anything. My 2009 Street Triple R with a resrpung and revalved shock gives me more feed back then my BMW.

Is there a general basis to start from like GSXR's like to be high on the front and rear I'm told? My local suspension person doesn't really get to track days much and he keeps telling me to put carts in it and race it. The forks can't be that bad that I need to drop 1-2k on them to get them to work properly. I'm currently 20 seconds off the fastest lap at my local track so needing all that work to get me even half way there seems ridiculous. I am working more with a coach on my own riding this season but I have been told form multiple folks that I fast as crap out of corners (I could be better on the way in for sure) and my tire wear is right one all the time.

Sorry if this is a repost but I'm not sure where to go and I want to do what ever I can to make this bike work for me if its possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Different offset triple clamps, The 2010 and 2011 bikes use a 32 mm offset, the 2012 and newer bikes use a 29.6 mm offset , the best offset for track use, seems to be 27 to 28 mm.

As you lower the offset number, you increase trail, (another worthwhile discussion), the first thing you notice as you change to 27 or 28 mm offset is you can “feel” what the front tire is doing as you initiate a turn, the time between starting to lean in and getting you knee on the ground, it is vague, until you get the offset changed.


Looks like getting a set of 12 and newer triples should be on my list. Not sure I have the bling for Attacks or like wise..
 

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and if you use the search function this all has been discussed to death. especially the 10-14 models as the geometry never really made any one feel good on feedback. Get a 2020/21 with the best mechanical grip you could hope for and the best front end feel stock. I put over 40000 miles on the 15-19 K46 so I have some experience on both platforms.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Lots of talk about DDC bikes and 12-> bikes, I must not have dug back into the archives far enough then. I almost have this bike paid off, and don't have $20,000 for a track bike hehe. In your experience am I just better off to get aftermarket clamps or would the 12 and up ones be a big enough difference? Oh you said 10-14, so I would need 2015 clamps then!
 

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I have the 2011 and the stock suspension is complete garbage for track. Buy aftermarket suspension of your liking, front fork kit and a rear shock. I went with the Ohlins setup - my service go-to is David Behrend @ Fast Bike Industries. My suspension is on rails - its a night/day difference from stock suspension.

Then set your baseline SAG to 40mm at the Front and 30mm at the Rear and dial-in that in to your liking at your local track.

If the suspension still doesn't suit your liking, then go aftermarket triple clamp and swing-arm pivots.

Just my .02 cents.
 

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Also my bike is the older one so the stock geometry is different than most of the posts that I see. At the moment I'm a stock front end (I don't recall how much fork leg I have showing up top or my settings. The bike is not with me but I can get that info).

My problem is the bike seems so neutral and numb its almost uninspiring. Its hard to explain but I feel almost nothing when I'm riding it, it is track only. If you asked me what was good or bad about it I couldn't tell you anything. My 2009 Street Triple R with a resrpung and revalved shock gives me more feed back then my BMW.

The forks can't be that bad that I need to drop 1-2k on them to get them to work properly.
S1k is street bike, it has street suspension. Typically street suspension is neutral, numb and soft. Because it has to cope with potholes etc. And give comfortable ride to 90-99% of the customers who are ridin at streets.

Compression damping/ hi mid low/ damping curve is the key to get some feedback (not geometry/ offset etc.). Street suspension does not give it to you because 90-99% would hate it.

So revalve (that is why your Triple works ok) or drop 1-2k (cartridges).

One positive thing with k-tech cartridges is that they will give you 5 mm more suspension travel. That is very usable option when braking hard on track.
 
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