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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok so I recently got a used 2015. I changed the chain because the other one was really worn. Went out riding for a few hours, got stuck in neutral when riding and I may have slammed into first gear or second(at around 50-70 mph). Can anyone tell me if they have ever broke a gear in a transmission and what would the symptoms feel like or be?

When I am in first gear I I get constant chain slapping. Can installing 120 links on a chain also cause this problem?(seems to be the proper amount of slack.)

Also only does this in first gear mainly, in second gear I can take off just fine or very minimal slapping of the chain.



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Problem was my first gear had some wear on it.
 

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Have you checked the slack after the races? Brand new chain stretch a bit. Also, did you change the sprockets? If chain were really worn, sprockets are worn out too. Now, is bike still stuck in neural or does shift ok?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Have you checked the slack after the races? Brand new chain stretch a bit. Also, did you change the sprockets? If chain were really worn, sprockets are worn out too. Now, is bike still stuck in neural or does shift ok?
I went out riding yesterday and it was driving fine for about 3 hours,(On the way home on a downshift I heard the slapping of the chain) after that it had created a bit more slack and I adjusted it to be more in spec but it still does it. Shifts perfectly fine and I only changed the chain as the sprockets are in decent condition.

Do you know if using all 120 links could cause this problem?
 

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120 is stock so shouldn't be a problem. Did you use 525 or 520? If it's adjusted to spec, it really shouldn't slap around. Is sprockets are stock size( 17 front x 45 rear)? To me it sounds like it is still loose but can't really tell you for sure. If everything is stock size with right adjustment on chain it really shouldn't slap the chain guard much at all. It just might be chain stretching after each ride. It should stop after few rides. I would keep it on loose side of the adjustment spec and keep an eye on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
120 is stock so shouldn't be a problem. Did you use 525 or 520? If it's adjusted to spec, it really shouldn't slap around. Is sprockets are stock size( 17 front x 45 rear)? To me it sounds like it is still loose but can't really tell you for sure. If everything is stock size with right adjustment on chain it really shouldn't slap the chain guard much at all.
Yes its still stock 17/45 (525), rear sprocket does have a bit of play not sure if that's normal. I will get a video tomorrow of everything.
 

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If it rides fine beginning of the ride and start to slap end of the day than it probably still breaking in. Measure it before and after the ride. Don't adjust the chain too tight, especially if you are heavy set and drag racing. It will stretch alot that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If it rides fine beginning of the ride and start to slap end of the day than it probably still breaking in. Measure it before and after the ride. Don't adjust the chain too tight, especially if you are heavy set and drag racing. It will stretch alot that way.
Well I can't ride as it just slaps way too much in first gear maybe I can get a video of it on my gopro tomorrow.
 

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Well I can't ride as it just slaps way too much in first gear maybe I can get a video of it on my gopro tomorrow.

If it is cast, those are the worse to get rubbers that are very shrunk inside the drive hub and create a slack movement when you grip the sprocket and move front to rear. moves any, it is too much and worn rubber drive unit.

If it is forged wheel, they have rubber donuts. Those usually wear in the drive direction the most. You can remove those and rotate them slightly and get a little more use out of them. However if they are cracked, you need to replace them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If it is cast, those are the worse to get rubbers that are very shrunk inside the drive hub and create a slack movement when you grip the sprocket and move front to rear. moves any, it is too much and worn rubber drive unit.

If it is forged wheel, they have rubber donuts. Those usually wear in the drive direction the most. You can remove those and rotate them slightly and get a little more use out of them. However if they are cracked, you need to replace them.
Cast wheels. the sprocket doesn't seat all the way(heard that could be normal on the S1000), ill record a video of the play it has tomorrow and take it back off and also record the amount of play it has like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This isn't my video
but I guess the rear wobble isn't that uncommon, so I think I can chalk this down to being either a broken first gear or something wrong with my chain.(I sure do hope its the chain at this point lol.)
 

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The sprocket carrier doesn't seat in the wheel snugly(in the cush drives), not sure it its suppose to have play in it like mine does.
ah ok. I changed my sprockets and chain recently, checked the cush drives, no issues with wear, and the spocket carrier fits snugly. 2016 with 37k km.
 

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This isn't my video
but I guess the rear wobble isn't that uncommon, so I think I can chalk this down to being either a broken first gear or something wrong with my chain.(I sure do hope its the chain at this point lol.)
When I bought it new my cush drive after 1200km was starting to move sideways. It was replaces by warranty twice. Now there is no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ah ok. I changed my sprockets and chain recently, checked the cush drives, no issues with wear, and the spocket carrier fits snugly. 2016 with 37k km.
When I bought it new my cush drive after 1200km was starting to move sideways. It was replaces by warranty twice. Now there is no problem.
Hm I don't think its so much the sprocket problem I think its the chain or first gear, maybe I tightened the chain master link too much or too little? The chain is really stiff, has anyone ever experienced this? About to record the videos soon.
 

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Master link pin length should be measured after and have to be same as rest of the pins on the chain. Measure it with micro caliber. Maybe chain is jumping the sprocket because it's too tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Master link pin length should be measured after and have to be same as rest of the pins on the chain. Measure it with micro caliber. Maybe chain is jumping the sprocket because it's too tight.


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I am thinking its the chain, I am going to drain the oil and check for metal shavings. Maybe I didn't tight the master link enough or too much? Can you tell anything from the video?
 

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You need to measure the width of the mater link pin after the installation and needs to be same as others. Assuming it rivet type not the clip type. Need to measure it with the micro caliber. Measure it in steps until same width is reached as other pins.
 
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