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Why I Sold My New 2020 BMW S1000RR

https://youtu.be/4pRioM_xpRI

This isn't my video. A summary of the video is that he doesn't like the dip in power, the clip-ons vibrate, the motor is noisy, and you can't make setting adjustments on the fly. He owns a 15 rr. What do owners of the 2020 and who have taken it to the track think of his opinion? I think the dip in power is a big issue to someone who doesn't want to get a tune.
 

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I totally understand the guy, I've said it on this forum an was killed for it(from only a few) I love EVERYTHING besides the power delivery(or lack there of)
 

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https://youtu.be/4pRioM_xpRI

This isn't my video. A summary of the video is that he doesn't like the dip in power, the clip-ons vibrate, the motor is noisy, and you can't make setting adjustments on the fly. He owns a 15 rr. What do owners of the 2020 and who have taken it to the track think of his opinion? I think the dip in power is a big issue to someone who doesn't want to get a tune.
I own a 2018 RR with HP wheels that is all track fairings and setup for track but stock for the most part. Cat Delete. RCS19 Corsa Corta. Alpha clip ons and Lightech rear sets. Dropped front forks to line 3 and raised rear 10MM. Running Q4's

I also have a 2020 RR M sport that is stock.

First I have ridden both on the street and I have ridden both on the track BACK TO BACK.

His statement about electronics adjustability while riding I COMPLETELY disagree with. As a track day enthusiast I want you and every other rider out there to focus on the TRACK not your screen to mess with settings. I certainly don't want to be taken out by some idiot on the street who is texting and driving why would you play with settings on the track while in the middle of a session...... MAKES ZERO SENSE. Get off the track adjust your stuff get back on the track for EVERYONES safety. Setup your 4 rider pro modes and test... rinse and repeat.

Second- The power dip is horrible.... especially on west track since its slower and more technical you find yourself in that rev range more often. East you can avoid it if you try but still it should NOT be there. My 18 will outrun the 20 on the straights no question about it. Coming out of 15 on east as well as 7 on West its not even a question. I even had someone that was riding my bike get off track and ask why I don't hammer it down the straights and that they were killing me every time we took the last corner. It is not even comparable the 18 is significantly more linear in the power than the 20 and feels more refined (MOTOR WISE) than the 20 while on track.

Third- Gripe about the vibration. It is vibey on track. no question about it. but my 18 with the grip mods and getting rid of the bar ends is just as bad. Your hands will go numb if riding in the wrong rev range while also maintaining a white knuckle grip on the bars (Which you shouldn't be doing) Get heavy bar ends if it bothers you... 100 dollar fix... shouldn't be discounting a bike from potentially buying because of something as simple as that.

Fourth- Suspension. I actually think the 20 is better in this regard as it provides more feedback and is more gentle I guess you could say. I had a chat with Dave Moss who set up both bikes on the day of this event and he helped get them closer together in terms of feel. The 18 was stiffer while the 20 was more plush and absorbed some of the imperfection on the track without me having to roll out of the throttle. Turn 3 on west has a significant cement triangle that my 18 does not enjoy... my 20 however makes it disappear and I can hammer down about 15 miles an hour faster through it... maybe its my riding style maybe the bike is just that more confidence inspiring who knows. I have NOT really hammered the bike for fear of wadding it up so early in its life.

Fifth- Geometry. The 20 Significantly more flickable and fun. Turn in is way faster it holds lines better and builds confidence.

One annoyance that he did not bring up that I have is the TPMS will go crazy with pressure below 33PSI on my bike it starts giving me all kinds of warnings on screen.

All in all the bike is a great piece of MACHINERY that needs some electronics tweaks to be unbelievably awesome.

I will be keeping both of my bikes and hoping that BMW fixes their issue or releases a fix that won't void the warranty or have me have to risk losing it....

Hope this helps a little ENJOY IT!
 

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Another owner selling his 2020. Unhappy about the deadspot under 9k rpm. Not willing to risk his warranty which is understandable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pRioM_xpRI&feature=share

Is the new owner on here?
Doubt it. He's the owner of Cali Track days. He's wrong about not being able to change things on the fly. That's what Race Mode Pro 1, 2 and 3 are for. You set them each up differently, try them all in one session, get to the pits, take notes and pick the individual settings you liked best from each mode. Then you choose those settings for race pro 1 and set up 2 and 3 differently. Go out and try them all again. Rinse and repeat. After 2-3 sessions you should be close to what you will use for your baseline settings. If conditions change, the dtc is always adjustable. And if it starts raining, you can switch to rain mode or have 1 of the race pro setting set up to mimic it. He didn't think it through. For someone complaining vociferously about the flat spot he was hitting 150 mph well before start/finish with what looked like a very relaxed exit from 15. :laugh:
 

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2021 will be the year to buy the new RR. Glad I did not rush, stayed with Piano company bikes :wink2:

This is the third guy selling his new RR. I don't blame these riders. Losing warranty on a $23k bike to fix things that were supposed to be fixed from the factory are no joke. If Ducati and Aprilia can do it, BMW can.
 

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2021 will be the year to buy the new RR. Glad I did not rush, stayed with Piano company bikes :wink2:

This is the third guy selling his new RR. I don't blame these riders. Losing warranty on a $23k bike to fix things that were supposed to be fixed from the factory are no joke. If Ducati and Aprilia can do it, BMW can.
Granted both cheated and released an 1100 but thats neither here nor there:) It also does not absolve BMW of this sin.
 

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I have talked with this Cali Moto ( Bill ) guy.

I told him I had the ECU fix. It really is not the issues he mentioned however.. it was the engine ticking. The engine scares so many people into thinking that any mod is going to blow the engine up. Then you have to deal with the dealer on the warranty issues. Mod'ed ECU is not good when the engine blows. So the resolution is simple. Get a 2nd ECU that is a clone to your stock one. Mod the 2nd ECU with me, BT, whoever.... The next part is not going to be documented here. If you want to know how to continue with enjoying your 2020 S1000RR just read my website and make the call or email > bmwhp.com
 

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2021 will be the year to buy the new RR. Glad I did not rush, stayed with Piano company bikes :wink2:

This is the third guy selling his new RR. I don't blame these riders. Losing warranty on a $23k bike to fix things that were supposed to be fixed from the factory are no joke. If Ducati and Aprilia can do it, BMW can.

Not if the North American EPA is somehow seriously involved in the decision making of the released product.
 

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Another owner selling his 2020. Unhappy about the deadspot under 9k rpm. Not willing to risk his warranty which is understandable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pRioM_xpRI&feature=share

Is the new owner on here?
Doubt it. He's the owner of Cali Track days. He's wrong about not being able to change things on the fly. That's what Race Mode Pro 1, 2 and 3 are for. You set them each up differently, try them all in one session, get to the pits, take notes and pick the individual settings you liked best from each mode. Then you choose those settings for race pro 1 and set up 2 and 3 differently. Go out and try them all again. Rinse and repeat. After 2-3 sessions you should be close to what you will use for your baseline settings. If conditions change, the dtc is always adjustable. And if it starts raining, you can switch to rain mode or have 1 of the race pro setting set up to mimic it. He didn't think it through. For someone complaining vociferously about the flat spot he was hitting 150 mph well before start/finish with what looked like a very relaxed exit from 15. /images/S1000RRForum_2015/smilies/tango_face_smile_big.png
Exactly. He could just have 1 race mode and mimic rain mode or something.
 

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I have talked with this Cali Moto ( Bill ) guy.

I told him I had the ECU fix. It really is not the issues he mentioned however.. it was the engine ticking. The engine scares so many people into thinking that any mod is going to blow the engine up. Then you have to deal with the dealer on the warranty issues. Mod'ed ECU is not good when the engine blows. So the resolution is simple. Get a 2nd ECU that is a clone to your stock one. Mod the 2nd ECU with me, BT, whoever.... The next part is not going to be documented here. If you want to know how to continue with enjoying your 2020 S1000RR just read my website and make the call or email > bmwhp.com
I've DM'ed you twice in total,once today. No reply, that's ok I understand your very busy. I wanted to find out about the clone ecu and how/where/cost of said item. So I can just keep stock one on standby.
 

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Granted both cheated and released an 1100 but thats neither here nor there:) It also does not absolve BMW of this sin.
Not if the North American EPA is somehow seriously involved in the decision making of the released product.
Other companies (Aprilia, Kawi, etc...) all offer a second race ECU for under $800 that does not void the warranty.
There are also different ways to tune Ducati with a full system without voiding warranty offered from the factory. The fact that BMW has not released the M calibration kit or tuning codes say that the bike was rushed. Hopefully these issues will be ironed out in RRs produced later in the year.

Paying around $3k to get a spare ECU setup is a tough pill to swallow, if it can be brought down to under $1k then it would be a good option.

Flashing ECU is a great option, but the risk of losing warranty is too big to accept IMO. I'm not buying BT's claim that their flash cannot be detected, when my 15 RR engine blew up, first thing BMW did was a full ECU diagnostic by factory engineers in Germany, techie at dealership showed me the report (how often bike hit rev limiter, how many times service reset performed, original timestamp of ECU flash, etc...). In other words, no one is gonna hide a flashed ECU from BMW.
 

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@z00 wow, guess they will see the 3times I had the dash flashing red this last weekend. That's I'f anything is to happen. An no, it was not due to high speeds I was being an idiot and not shifting in time(or at all in one case, and idk why) If it blows down the road hopefully those alerts they will see won't cause an issue.
 

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@z00 wow, guess they will see the 3times I had the dash flashing red this last weekend. That's I'f anything is to happen. An no, it was not due to high speeds I was being an idiot and not shifting in time(or at all in one case, and idk why) If it blows down the road hopefully those alerts they will see won't cause an issue.
they'll see the bike on the limiter, but they'll also see the bike hitting bt's new 14.8K limit, which isn't part of the original bmw code.. So while they wont see anything on the normal diag, if they in fact dig deeper if god forbid someone pop's their motor, someone will be stuck w/ a huge headache..
 

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they'll see the bike on the limiter, but they'll also see the bike hitting bt's new 14.8K limit, which isn't part of the original bmw code.. So while they wont see anything on the normal diag, if they in fact dig deeper if god forbid someone pop's their motor, someone will be stuck w/ a huge headache..
Agreed. Definitely a reason the increased limiter is an option and isn't mandatory for their tune. I'll be opting-out of that when I order my tune from them. Not like it'll matter if push comes to shove though, but I don't wanna push my luck.
 

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Granted both cheated . . .
Cheated? These are street bikes, not formula race machines.

Is Ducati's higher red line "cheating?"

Are performance cars with bigger brakes, bigger engines, more sophisticated engines, etc. "cheating?"

I think of all such street machines as nice options.
Yeah I hear that dumbass argument all the time. Usually from street riders who have never ridden in a race where displacement even matters.
 

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The fact that BMW has not released the M calibration kit or tuning codes say that the bike was rushed. Hopefully these issues will be ironed out in RRs produced later in the year.
20 years ago BMW was rushing cars to market and doing their R+D in the field. It's unfortunate but it appears that they haven't changed their policy. Their biggest fans and early adopters suffer the most. It's a ridiculous practice.
 

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I still have a deposit on a 2020 BMW at this point however. I'm literally an inch away from pulling the trigger on a Aprilia Rsv4 1100 or a v4s. I have a gut feeling that BMW has fantastic engineers like most of german majors. But I feel that rushed to market coupled with cost cutting measures is gonna result in a rough first year of production. Loud engine ticking is something I don't tolerate especially when I'm dropping over 20k on a machine. Granted all these bikes out have had known issues, however the motor building / car guy inside me says it would literally eat at my soul daily.

I'm still currently stuck at an impasse to hold out or jump ship for a year or two.
 
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