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Discussion Starter #1
I've been having some issues with my HP4. It will start then shut off. I finally got around to scanning it with GS911. Attached are the results.

VBAT:10.35V VIGN: 11.33V
One of the above numbers started around 13.5. I think it was the first one.

Error code:
10109 Battery voltage
The fault is currently present.

Do I need a new alternator? If so, any suggestions on a replacement? New OEM are $1,400.

What do you think @bennymx?

I found this used OEM for sale.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-OEM-Alternator-2012-2015-HP4-2013-2018-S1000R-2009-2018-S1000RR-12317718420/192868821381?epid=1924998070&hash=item2ce7e0a985:g:WxkAAOSwY7lciV0-

Not sure I would try this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Magneto-Alternator-Stator-Coil-for-BMW-S1000R-K47-2014-17-S1000RR-K46-2009-2017/232765407992?fits=Year:2013|Model:S1000RR|Make:BMW&hash=item3631e642f8:g:jhkAAOSwcEha9a1Q

Anyone have one for sale or free to a good home?
 

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Super Moderator
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Ideally you would charge and load test the battery. Then start the bike and check the charge rate. If its not above 14v with a good battery then it can be the reg or stator. In my experience. I've had 2 stators fail at around 40000 to 50000km. You can check that easily with a multimeter also. Check it for ground and then check the output of all 3 phases. My first one fully shorted to ground. My second one just 1 phase failed.
 

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Number 1 is the flywheel and stator and bolts. You just need the stator. I think that’s why it’s so expensive.


4 wheels move the body..2 wheels move the soul
 

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Number 1 is the flywheel and stator and bolts. You just need the stator. I think that’s why it’s so expensive.


4 wheels move the body..2 wheels move the soul
Not seeing a part number for OEM stator. Is it sold separately?
 

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Not seeing a part number for OEM stator. Is it sold separately?


More times than not it is. You would probably have to buy aftermarket. Unless you call a dealer and ask just for the OEM stator.


4 wheels move the body..2 wheels move the soul
 

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But like Benny said. You should test the stator before buying. To make sure that is your problem. It could be the R/R as well. Or a combination of both. I personally haven’t had this problem with my RR yet, but my ‘02 R6 was notorious for going through stators and R/R’s.


4 wheels move the body..2 wheels move the soul
 

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More times than not it is. You would probably have to buy aftermarket. Unless you call a dealer and ask just for the OEM stator.


4 wheels move the body..2 wheels move the soul
I see plenty of aftermarket for <$100. Not sure how reliable they are.
 

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I’m not sure if Ricks does stators or R/Rs for the S1000RR, but the ones I bought from them for my R6 were on spot and very reliable.


4 wheels move the body..2 wheels move the soul
 

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I've seen that gray plug come unclipped from the regulator (by the rear shock) and then the battery runs down. It would be good to check the voltage with the engine running.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks, all. I got my hands on a multimeter. I'll try to test it this week.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
let us know how it goes.
Will do. I finally got a multimeter. Battery is fine. I'll need to test stator and regulator. I found some youtube videos on how to test strator. I don't have much luck finding info on regulator.
 

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I finally got a multimeter.
As long as your multi-meter has a diode test function/capability, you should be able to test the regulator/rectifier.

If your multi-meter does include a diode test function. The diode symbol (see image below) should probably appear somewhere near the function dial or maybe the probe lead input. Otherwise check the destruction book:


Wait to see what the stator test results are first.
 

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I appreciate all of the information on here. I tested the stator today. All of the info above and this video helped. I tested it at the plug going into the regulator/rectifier and seems to work. I consistently got .5 across all three connections.


It seems this part is good. Now I need to test the regulator rectifier per @AussieAlien and @skapan 's suggestion. Here is another good video for it.


Unfortunately, this will be more time consuming because I can't easily get to the regulator. I will need to take the rear shock off to gain access. Fortunately, this part is cheaper.

I see it here for $110 vs $1,200 for stator.

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl-voltrect422.htm

It goes to show the value of this forum. Even a long standing member can learn a thing or two. I already have one, but @wfo439 would say this is worth a lifetime membership.
 

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That's pretty much the procedure to test the regulator/rectifier. Always ensure the forward biased voltage readings are about the same voltage and the reversed biased readings show open circuit or OL (Open Line) in the video.

Unfortunately, this will be more time consuming because I can't easily get to the regulator. I will need to take the rear shock off to gain access.
If you can get some large female spade connectors (same size as the connectors in the stator plug) and wire from an automotive shop. Crimp some of that wire onto the spade connectors to make some temporary extension leads. These temporary extension leads will allow you to bring the regulator/rectifier connections out to make the testing easier. Just move these temporary leads to the next terminal as required, test and then rinse and repeat.

This will save you time in having to take everything apart.
 
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